<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:georss="http://www.georss.org/georss" xmlns:geo="http://www.w3.org/2003/01/geo/wgs84_pos#" > <channel> <title>South America Archives * Marking My Map</title> <atom:link href="https://markingmymap.com/category/southamerica/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" /> <link>https://markingmymap.com/category/southamerica/</link> <description>Misadventures in Traveling</description> <lastBuildDate>Wed, 26 Jun 2019 17:34:33 +0000</lastBuildDate> <language>en-US</language> <sy:updatePeriod> hourly </sy:updatePeriod> <sy:updateFrequency> 1 </sy:updateFrequency> <generator>https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1</generator> <site xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">145058546</site> <item> <title>Ending in the Atacama</title> <link>https://markingmymap.com/2018/07/ending-in-the-atacama/</link> <comments>https://markingmymap.com/2018/07/ending-in-the-atacama/#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 20 Jul 2018 14:56:03 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Atacama]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Chile]]></category> <category><![CDATA[South America]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Desert]]></category> <category><![CDATA[south america]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://markingmymap.com/?p=761</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>“It is always sad to leave a place to which one knows one will never return. Such are the melancolies du voyage: perhaps they are one of the most rewarding things about traveling.” – Gustave Flaubert Chile: Interesting Facts I spent my last week in South America in a giant desert. The driest in the world just so happens to be in Northern Chile. The Atacama. Google it. I’ll start by addressing the obvious question. Of all the places to visit in South America, why end my trip in the Atacama? I visited Santiago a few years ago and it was here that I learned about the geographically schizophrenic country of Chile. Santiago by itself offers a little of everything. It has high end shopping malls, tasty food markets, artsy parks, and giant crosses on mountains just like other South America cities. During my short visit we drove to nearby wineries and beach towns, stopped at a casino, and took a graffiti tour in nearby artsy Valparaiso. That’s just the middle of the country. Chile is also home to the Atacama in the north, and the arctic landscapes of Patagonia in the South. If you’re up for some real Indiana Jones type adventure, you can visit the Chilean claimed Easter island to see the famously mysterious Moai statues. You know, those giant Polynesian elongated stone faces on a random island in the South Pacific. All without leaving the country. Translated into ‘Murican, Chile combines the geographic qualities of Alaska, Hawaii, and California in a country the square mileage of Texas. All of this wacky landscape is then spread across a skinny landmass that’s as long as the United States is wide. Getting to the Atacama from Santiago requires a 18 hour drive north. Patagonia is just as far south – and don’t try to go in winter as most of the trails and mountain passes are closed. Easter island is a solid 6 hour flight from Santiago, and is unreachable from any other country. Crazy, right? In other travel complications, leading up to this stop I heard multiple times that the one South American accent people have trouble understanding is Chilean. ‘Good luck with your Spanish there’ several Peruvians and Colombians told me – ‘even I can’t understand what a Chilean is saying’. Challenge accepted. I even managed to convince my friend Crystal to meet me there. Logistical Problems Now the question of how to get there. Northern Chile has a few airports. Unfortunately, they are primarily served by flights from Santiago and Bolivia. Flying through Bolivia is expensive and flying through Santiago is a colossal waste of time when I was just across the border. So it’s back on the bus. I read quite a few travel blogs covering the general route from Peru to Chile. First, I had to get back to Arequipa, which required a short flight from my current location in Cusco. From there I needed a bus to Tacna, on the Peruvian side of the border. Then I had to grab a collectivo to cross the border and get through customs. Then pick up another bus in Arica on the Chilean side and buy a ticket for the 11 hour bus ride to San Pedro de Atacama. Simple, right? The blogs I read were alarmingly full of travel mishaps and misfortunes. Get to Tacna early enough or the border crossing will be closed. Make sure you get in the ‘right’ collectivo, and not a imposter that will take your money. Be prepared to get off your bus for customs inspections and make sure the bus driver doesn’t leave you behind. This should be fun. I allocated two and a half days to travel time. Just in case. Who doesn’t love 48 hours of full on transportation?? The extra time allocation turned out to be a good decision. It was only by the grace of god and the help of a petite Chilean grandmother that I made it to San Pedro in time to meet Crystal. Half the Adventure is Getting There Turns out bus transfers and the border crossing were easy. The problem that I didn’t anticipate is what hurt me. Flight delays. The flight from Cusco to Arequipa is 40 minutes. My plane was delayed 9 hours. Think that’s fun?! Try figuring out what’s going on in a foreign language. I got on a plane and off a plane. I waited in line for over an hour to get a free breakfast coupon for a single cafe with two employees that ran out of food. The airline announced no less than five gate changes (I’m convinced this was purposefully done so ornery passengers wouldn’t have time to yell at airport employees). Luckily the world cup was on and Peru was playing. Unfortunately Peru lost, which did not help passenger morale. This was even worse for one poor Chilean guy who proved his team loyalty by physically holding up a wire antenna during the entire match to keep the reception. In short, it was a disorganized clusterf*ck. But hey, that’s traveling. By the time I got to Arequipa it was too late for a bus to Tacna. I had to spend the night and get a bus in the morning. But surprisingly, this was the most complicated part of my trip. Upon arrival in Tacna, a very small five foot tall elderly Chilean lady befriended me and helped guide me across the border. She told me where to go, who to trust, and who to ignore. In exchange I ran small errands for her in the bus station, and lent her 3 soles (about a dollar) for her own fare as she ran short of Peruvian currency. I also learned that, in contrast to other countries, the Chilean collectivo is not a passenger van or small bus, but a parking lot full of 1995 ford Tauruses. Alas, not only was this process easy but oddly fascinating. The border crossing itself took 15 minutes. Once we got to the Chilean side, my adopted grandmother helped me to the next bus station, kissed me on the cheek, and told me to watch my money. Chile was expensive. I caught my last South American night bus to San Pedro de Atacama and arrived just in time to take a short nap before Crystal arrived. Travel Friends Crystal messaged me in the middle of my South American exploits saying she had some time off around the 4th of July. Where would I be and would I mind company? Well Crystal…. I’ll be in an exceptional, yet not widely known giant desert in Northern Chile. And I would love some company. Crystal lived in London for 3 ½ years and is well traveled. But we have extremely different travel styles. After three months of vagabonding, I have swindled my budget down to $12/night private room hostels. They’re clean but simple. This is something I share proudly. I feel like an accomplished traveler. Crystal, by contrast, upgraded her flight to first class on her way to Chile. Good for her. Enjoy yourself, lady. But obviously we’re sitting on different sides of the luxury travel spectrum here. Furthermore, Crystal is not I would call outdoorsy by nature. She expressed initial concerns about the level of hiking. I found this reasonable given I’d been posting trekking pictures almost exclusively for the prior month. I assured here the Atacama was less about hiking, and more about star gazing and walking around geyser fields. But….after Crystal booked her ticket, I gave her a packing list full of hiking pants, shoes with good traction and a small daypack. Crystal dutifully bought up a few shelves of the REI in Houston. She arrived in Chile bright eyed and open-minded, but we were both concerned that I may have bamboozled her into something for which she was not fully prepared. Things to See in the Desert Since I was out of wifi range on a mountain for much of the prior month, Crystal took the planning lead and found a great company to chauffeur us around for a couple of days. The tour company was run by a father and son duo, both named Patricio. Crystal and I were the only English speakers in our small seven person tour group. Everyone else was Chilean. Young Patricio translated the tour into English, but it meant we didn’t have much of the opportunity to socialize with the others. This is a shame, because they seemed like a fun group! But Crystal speaks no Spanish, and I’m Spanish slow, and was still getting used to the Chilean accent as well as Spanish slang. So it goes. The bonus of this particular tour company was that Patricio junior is an amateur photographer and takes pictures of his guests’ adventures with a nice SLR camera. We had our own personal photographer! In addition to her other endearing qualities and willingness to blindly follow me to a South American desert, Crystal is also a great photo companion. She’s always game for some picture fun. Here are the shots to prove it. Over the course of three days we visited salt flats, a flamingo reserve, mountains, desert lagoons, and deep canyons. We visited the most beautiful desert hot springs I’ve ever been in, and stood on a mountain for a desert sunset for one of the most breathtaking sunsets I’ve ever seen. I could give a written description of all these things, but why do that when I have all these fab pictures! I’ve been traveling for three months and I have a lot of pictures by now of me standing and smiling in front of mountains and monuments. And selfies. It’s getting borderline narcissistic and boring. The pics from the Atacama are some of my favorite of my trip. It’s fun to mix is up with a friend who’s game. The Last Day After touring with Patricio and his dad for three days, the other Chileans in the group left to go home. For our fourth day in the Atacama, Patricio said he could bring us around on a private tour. We both enjoyed his excursions but personally I was itching to meet some other travelers and make friends on my final leg in South America. Crystal could have easily stayed with the Patricios, but she entertained me and we meandered the streets of downtown San Pedro to find another tour company for the last day. Our goal: to find a tour with other English speakers in attendance. We wanted to meet (and hopefully talk) to some other travelers. For our final day we visited the Rainbow Valley and ancient petroglyphs. Our new tour group and guide were no Patricio, but we did meet a few other people. No one become fast friends, but we had some chit chat. And we didn’t have a personalized photographer following us around, but the uniquely colorful landscape still made for a great photo session. FYI: The mountain colors are a result of different minerals in the ground. Pretty cool, right?? The last night in San Pedro we took a star gazing tour. This was a memorable way to end the trip. We learned some astronomy and science about stars and the universe. As usual we were the only two northerners among a crowd of Spanish speaking South Americans. But we were hanging out in the desert in the dark so it’s not necessarily a great time to make friends anyway. We couldn’t see people’s faces, but we did see Saturn’s rings and Jupiter’s moons in a telescope. I’m not complaining. The positive of traveling to a place like the Atacama that isn’t yet highlighted in Conde Nest’s top places to visit list, is that it’s not yet overcrowded and commercialized. San Pedro remains small, safe, and unintimidating. We saw other tourists, but the sites weren’t so overcrowded that we felt overwhelmed or oversold. That’s nice. Especially in contrast to a place like Machu Picchu where the prior week I endured long lines and...</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/07/ending-in-the-atacama/">Ending in the Atacama</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote> <p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #000080;">“It is always sad to leave a place to which one knows one will never return. Such are the <em>melancolies du voyage</em>: perhaps they are one of the most rewarding things about traveling.” – Gustave Flaubert</span></p> </blockquote> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Chile: Interesting Facts</span></h5> <p>I spent my last week in South America in a giant desert. The driest in the world just so happens to be in Northern Chile. The Atacama.</p> <p>Google it.</p> <p>I’ll start by addressing the obvious question. Of all the places to visit in South America, why end my trip in the Atacama?</p> <p>I visited Santiago a few years ago and it was here that I learned about the geographically schizophrenic country of Chile. Santiago by itself offers a little of everything. It has high end shopping malls, tasty food markets, artsy parks, and giant crosses on mountains just like other South America cities. During my short visit we drove to nearby wineries and beach towns, stopped at a casino, and took a graffiti tour in nearby artsy Valparaiso.</p> <p>That’s just the middle of the country. Chile is also home to the Atacama in the north, and the arctic landscapes of Patagonia in the South. If you’re up for some real Indiana Jones type adventure, you can visit the Chilean claimed Easter island to see the famously mysterious Moai statues. You know, those giant Polynesian elongated stone faces on a random island in the South Pacific. All without leaving the country.</p> <p>Translated into ‘Murican, Chile combines the geographic qualities of Alaska, Hawaii, and California in a country the square mileage of Texas. All of this wacky landscape is then spread across a skinny landmass that’s as long as the United States is wide. Getting to the Atacama from Santiago requires a 18 hour drive north. Patagonia is just as far south – and don’t try to go in winter as most of the trails and mountain passes are closed. Easter island is a solid 6 hour flight from Santiago, and is unreachable from any other country.</p> <p>Crazy, right?</p> <p>In other travel complications, leading up to this stop I heard multiple times that the one South American accent people have trouble understanding is Chilean. ‘Good luck with your Spanish there’ several Peruvians and Colombians told me – ‘even I can’t understand what a Chilean is saying’.</p> <p>Challenge accepted.</p> <p>I even managed to convince my friend Crystal to meet me there.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Logistical Problems</strong></span></h5> <p>Now the question of how to get there. Northern Chile has a few airports. Unfortunately, they are primarily served by flights from Santiago and Bolivia. Flying through Bolivia is expensive and flying through Santiago is a colossal waste of time when I was just across the border.</p> <p>So it’s back on the bus.</p> <p>I read quite a few travel blogs covering the general route from Peru to Chile. First, I had to get back to Arequipa, which required a short flight from my current location in Cusco. From there I needed a bus to Tacna, on the Peruvian side of the border. Then I had to grab a collectivo to cross the border and get through customs. Then pick up another bus in Arica on the Chilean side and buy a ticket for the 11 hour bus ride to San Pedro de Atacama.</p> <p>Simple, right?</p> <p>The blogs I read were alarmingly full of travel mishaps and misfortunes. Get to Tacna early enough or the border crossing will be closed. Make sure you get in the ‘right’ collectivo, and not a imposter that will take your money. Be prepared to get off your bus for customs inspections and make sure the bus driver doesn’t leave you behind.</p> <p>This should be fun.</p> <p>I allocated two and a half days to travel time. Just in case. Who doesn’t love 48 hours of full on transportation?? The extra time allocation turned out to be a good decision. It was only by the grace of god and the help of a petite Chilean grandmother that I made it to San Pedro in time to meet Crystal.</p> <h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Half the Adventure is Getting There</strong></span></h4> <p>Turns out bus transfers and the border crossing were <em>easy. </em> The problem that I didn’t anticipate is what hurt me. Flight delays. The flight from Cusco to Arequipa is 40 minutes. My plane was delayed 9 hours. Think that’s fun?! Try figuring out what’s going on in a foreign language. I got on a plane and off a plane. I waited in line for over an hour to get a free breakfast coupon for a single cafe with two employees that ran out of food. The airline announced no less than five gate changes (I’m convinced this was purposefully done so ornery passengers wouldn’t have time to yell at airport employees).</p> <p>Luckily the world cup was on and Peru was playing. Unfortunately Peru lost, which did not help passenger morale. This was even worse for one poor Chilean guy who proved his team loyalty by physically holding up a wire antenna during the entire match to keep the reception. In short, it was a<span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;"> disorganized clusterf*ck. </span></p> <p>But hey, that’s traveling.</p> <figure id="attachment_864" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-864" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" class="wp-image-864 size-medium" style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1552.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1552.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1552.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1552.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1552.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1552.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="(max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-864" class="wp-caption-text">This poor guy held that wire for HOURS</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_863" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-863" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" decoding="async" class="wp-image-863 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1531.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1531.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1531.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1531.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1531.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1531.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="(max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-863" class="wp-caption-text">The mob is forming</figcaption></figure> <p>By the time I got to Arequipa it was too late for a bus to Tacna. I had to spend the night and get a bus in the morning. But surprisingly, this was the most complicated part of my trip. Upon arrival in Tacna, a very small five foot tall elderly Chilean lady befriended me and helped guide me across the border. She told me where to go, who to trust, and who to ignore. In exchange I ran small errands for her in the bus station, and lent her 3 soles (about a dollar) for her own fare as she ran short of Peruvian currency. I also learned that, in contrast to other countries, the Chilean collectivo is not a passenger van or small bus, but a parking lot full of 1995 ford Tauruses. Alas, not only was this process easy but oddly fascinating.</p> <figure id="attachment_865" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-865" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" decoding="async" class="wp-image-865 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1588.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1588.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1588.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1588.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1588.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1588.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="(max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-865" class="wp-caption-text">My ride across the border</figcaption></figure> <p>The border crossing itself took 15 minutes. Once we got to the Chilean side, my adopted grandmother helped me to the next bus station, kissed me on the cheek, and told me to watch my money. Chile was expensive. I caught my last South American night bus to San Pedro de Atacama and arrived just in time to take a short nap before Crystal arrived.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Travel Friends</strong></span></h5> <p>Crystal messaged me in the middle of my South American exploits saying she had some time off around the 4<sup>th</sup> of July. Where would I be and would I mind company? Well Crystal…. I’ll be in an exceptional, yet not widely known giant desert in Northern Chile. And I would love some company.</p> <p>Crystal lived in London for 3 ½ years and is well traveled. But we have extremely different travel styles. After three months of vagabonding, I have swindled my budget down to $12/night private room hostels. They’re clean but simple. This is something I share proudly. I feel like an accomplished traveler. Crystal, by contrast, upgraded her flight to first class on her way to Chile. Good for her. Enjoy yourself, lady.</p> <p>But obviously we’re sitting on different sides of the luxury travel spectrum here.</p> <p>Furthermore, Crystal is not I would call outdoorsy by nature. She expressed initial concerns about the level of hiking. I found this reasonable given I’d been posting trekking pictures almost exclusively for the prior month. I assured here the Atacama was less about hiking, and more about star gazing and walking around geyser fields.</p> <p>But….after Crystal booked her ticket, I gave her a packing list full of hiking pants, shoes with good traction and a small daypack. Crystal dutifully bought up a few shelves of the REI in Houston. She arrived in Chile bright eyed and open-minded, but we were both concerned that I may have bamboozled her into something for which she was not fully prepared.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Things to See in the Desert</strong></span></h5> <p>Since I was out of wifi range on a mountain for much of the prior month, Crystal took the planning lead and found a great company to chauffeur us around for a couple of days. The tour company was run by a father and son duo, both named Patricio. Crystal and I were the only English speakers in our small seven person tour group. Everyone else was Chilean. Young Patricio translated the tour into English, but it meant we didn’t have much of the opportunity to socialize with the others. This is a shame, because they seemed like a fun group! But Crystal speaks no Spanish, and I’m Spanish slow, and was still getting used to the Chilean accent as well as Spanish slang. So it goes.</p> <figure id="attachment_839" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-839" style="width: 960px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-839 size-large" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0590.jpg?resize=960%2C640&ssl=1" alt="" width="960" height="640" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0590.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0590.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0590.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0590.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0590.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0590.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-839" class="wp-caption-text">The tour group. Patrico Junior is in the lower right corner</figcaption></figure> <p>The bonus of this particular tour company was that Patricio junior is an amateur photographer and takes pictures of his guests’ adventures with a nice SLR camera. We had our own personal photographer! In addition to her other endearing qualities and willingness to blindly follow me to a South American desert, Crystal is also a great photo companion. She’s always game for some picture fun. Here are the shots to prove it.</p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-859 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0554-1.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="217" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0554-1.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0554-1.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0554-1.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0554-1.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0554-1.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0554-1.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /> <img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-853 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0231.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="217" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0231.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0231.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0231.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0231.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0231.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0231.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /> <img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-833 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0167-1.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="217" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0167-1.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0167-1.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0167-1.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0167-1.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0167-1.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0167-1.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /> <img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-840 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0527.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="217" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0527.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0527.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0527.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0527.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0527.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0527.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /></p> <p>Over the course of three days we visited salt flats, a flamingo reserve, mountains, desert lagoons, and deep canyons. We visited the most beautiful desert hot springs I’ve ever been in, and stood on a mountain for a desert sunset for one of the most breathtaking sunsets I’ve ever seen. I could give a written description of all these things, but why do that when I have all these fab pictures!</p> <figure id="attachment_832" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-832" style="width: 960px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-832 size-large" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0754.jpg?resize=960%2C640&ssl=1" alt="" width="960" height="640" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0754.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0754.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0754.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0754.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0754.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0754.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-832" class="wp-caption-text">Obviously, I didn’t take this one</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_858" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-858" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-858 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0587.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="217" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0587.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0587.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0587.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0587.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0587.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0587.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-858" class="wp-caption-text">Desert Sunset Jump</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_844" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-844" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-844 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0620.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="217" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0620.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0620.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0620.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0620.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0620.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0620.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-844" class="wp-caption-text">Tatio Geyers</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_857" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-857" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-857 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0239-1.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="217" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0239-1.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0239-1.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0239-1.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0239-1.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0239-1.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0239-1.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-857" class="wp-caption-text">Lagunas Altiplanicas</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_852" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-852" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-852 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0263.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="217" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0263.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0263.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0263.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0263.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0263.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0263.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-852" class="wp-caption-text">Laguna Tuyalto</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_834" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-834" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-834 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0757.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="217" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0757.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0757.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0757.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0757.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0757.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0757.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-834" class="wp-caption-text">Surprisingly there are a lot of lakes in the desert from Mountain run-off</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_851" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-851" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-851 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0641.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="217" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0641.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0641.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0641.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0641.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0641.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0641.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-851" class="wp-caption-text">Tatio Geysers</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_816" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-816" style="width: 960px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-816 size-large" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1677.jpg?resize=960%2C720&ssl=1" alt="" width="960" height="720" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1677.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1677.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1677.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1677.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1677.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1677.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-816" class="wp-caption-text">Laguna Tuyalto</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_848" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-848" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-848 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0372.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="217" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0372.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0372.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0372.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0372.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0372.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0372.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-848" class="wp-caption-text">Desert Hot Springs</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_856" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-856" style="width: 960px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-856 size-large" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0613.jpg?resize=960%2C640&ssl=1" alt="" width="960" height="640" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0613.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0613.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0613.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0613.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0613.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0613.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-856" class="wp-caption-text">Moon Valley Sunset</figcaption></figure> <p>I’ve been traveling for three months and I have a lot of pictures by now of me standing and smiling in front of mountains and monuments. And selfies. It’s getting borderline narcissistic and boring. The pics from the Atacama are some of my favorite of my trip. It’s fun to mix is up with a friend who’s game.</p> <figure id="attachment_796" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-796" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-796 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1616.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1616.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1616.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1616.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1616.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1616.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-796" class="wp-caption-text">The Atacama Salt Flats</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_824" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-824" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-824 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1837.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1837.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1837.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1837.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1837.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1837.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1837.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-824" class="wp-caption-text">Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley)</figcaption></figure> <h5></h5> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>The Last Day</strong></span></h5> <p>After touring with Patricio and his dad for three days, the other Chileans in the group left to go home. For our fourth day in the Atacama, Patricio said he could bring us around on a private tour. We both enjoyed his excursions but personally I was itching to meet some other travelers and make friends on my final leg in South America. Crystal could have easily stayed with the Patricios, but she entertained me and we meandered the streets of downtown San Pedro to find another tour company for the last day. Our goal: to find a tour with other English speakers in attendance. We wanted to meet (and hopefully talk) to some other travelers.</p> <p>For our final day we visited the Rainbow Valley and ancient petroglyphs. Our new tour group and guide were no Patricio, but we did meet a few other people. No one become fast friends, but we had some chit chat. And we didn’t have a personalized photographer following us around, but the uniquely colorful landscape still made for a great photo session. FYI: The mountain colors are a result of different minerals in the ground. Pretty cool, right??</p> <figure id="attachment_872" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-872" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-872 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2115.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2115.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2115.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2115.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2115.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-872" class="wp-caption-text">Site of the Petroglyphs</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_868" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-868" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-868 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2107.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2107.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2107.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2107.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2107.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2107.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2107.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-868" class="wp-caption-text">You can see some ancient carvings in the rock</figcaption></figure> <div class="mceTemp"></div> <figure id="attachment_767" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-767" style="width: 960px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-767 size-large" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2252.jpg?resize=960%2C720&ssl=1" alt="" width="960" height="720" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2252.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2252.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2252.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2252.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2252.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2252.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-767" class="wp-caption-text">Valle de Arcoíris (Rainbow Valley)</figcaption></figure> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-866 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2233-1.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2233-1.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2233-1.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2233-1.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2233-1.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2233-1.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2233-1.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /> <img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-867 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2288.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2288.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2288.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2288.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2288.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2288.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2288.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /> <img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-805 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2220.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2220.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2220.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2220.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2220.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2220.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /></p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-795 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2189.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2189.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2189.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2189.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2189.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2189.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_2189.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /></p> <p>The last night in San Pedro we took a star gazing tour. This was a memorable<span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;"> way to end the trip. We learned some astronomy and science about stars and the universe. As usual we were the only two northerners among a crowd of Spanish speaking South Americans. But we were hanging out in the desert in the dark so it’s not necessarily a great time to make friends anyway. We couldn’t see people’s faces, but we did see Saturn’s rings and Jupiter’s moons in a telescope. I’m not complaining. </span></p> <p>The positive of traveling to a place like the Atacama that isn’t yet highlighted in Conde Nest’s top places to visit list, is that it’s not yet overcrowded and commercialized. San Pedro remains small, safe, and unintimidating. We saw other tourists, but the sites weren’t so overcrowded that we felt overwhelmed or oversold. That’s nice. Especially in contrast to a place like Machu Picchu where the prior week I endured long lines and hoards of selfie taking tourists. The negative is that we didn’t get the chance to meet or chat with too many other travelers. Most of those visiting the Atacama were Chileans from Santiago or Brazilians. It’s all an experience.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Going Home</strong></span></h5> <p>The morning after our stargazing tour Crystal and I headed back to the United States. On the plane, I passed up Crystal in First Class back to my economy seat. She got off in Houston and I got on another plane to Washington. For me, it was a good end to three months in South America. I visited a really unique place, and even better, I got to share these memories with a really great travel companion.</p> <p>I didn’t feel completely ready to head back to the US. My Spanish was just getting passable. But I’m only back for three weeks, and then it’s off to a new continent and a whole bucket of new life experiences. I have nothing to complain about. All these feelings only prove that I made the right decision in coming here, and have three months of memories that I won’t soon forget. Especially considering I recorded all those memories in this handy blog and a few thousand pictures.</p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-854 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0563.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="217" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0563.jpg?resize=325%2C217&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0563.jpg?resize=768%2C512&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0563.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0563.jpg?resize=1140%2C760&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0563.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0563.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /> <img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-815 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1924.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1924.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1924.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1924.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1924.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1924.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1924.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /></p> <figure id="attachment_775" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-775" style="width: 960px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-775 size-large" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0793.jpg?resize=960%2C721&ssl=1" alt="" width="960" height="721" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0793.jpg?resize=1024%2C769&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0793.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0793.jpg?resize=768%2C577&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0793.jpg?resize=1140%2C856&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0793.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0793.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-775" class="wp-caption-text">Thanks for the Memories!</figcaption></figure> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/07/ending-in-the-atacama/">Ending in the Atacama</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://markingmymap.com/2018/07/ending-in-the-atacama/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>4042</slash:comments> <post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">761</post-id> </item> <item> <title>Machu Picchu: Hiking my way through the Salkantay</title> <link>https://markingmymap.com/2018/07/machu-picchu-hiking-my-way-through-the-salkantay/</link> <comments>https://markingmymap.com/2018/07/machu-picchu-hiking-my-way-through-the-salkantay/#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Sun, 01 Jul 2018 23:45:00 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Cusco]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Machu Picchu]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Peru]]></category> <category><![CDATA[South America]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://markingmymap.com/?p=665</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>“Focus on the journey, not the destination. Joy is found not in finishing an activity but in doing it.”– Greg Anderson The Backdrop It’s time for the apex, the highlight, the grand finale of a trip to Peru.  Especially for what has turned into a mont of full blown TREKKING for me. Machu Picchu. I always planned to stop at this most famous of Peruvian sites.  And I always knew I wasn’t going to be one of those tourists taking the train from Cusco for a day trip.  No, I was hiking there.  The only question was which route to take. As my travels wear on, my itinerary is getting more and more dependent on my daily mood, quantity of sleep, and the weather report.  In other words, I don’t plan too far ahead.  Therefore, the Inca trail is out.  It has a limit of 500 permits a day.  You have to book it months in advance.  Obviously I didn’t do this. I’m left with a choice between the Lares and the Salkantay Trek.  A travel lesson I’ve learned is the best insider info comes not from google searches and obsessive trip advisor reading, but from talking to actual insiders.  I’ve met a lot of people while traveling.  Many of them have hiked to Machu Picchu.  Better yet, many of them are on a budget.  So for everyone I meet, I ask – have you done one of these treks?  What tour company did you use?  Was the food good (hint: this is a super important question)?  If I hear rave reviews about the same tour company twice?  Well, then I HAVE to pick that one. This is how I landed on my choice for a 5 day classic Salkantay Trek with Salkantay Trekking.  Easy to find, easy to remember. The Salkantay Trek is an considered an alternative route to the famous Inca Trail.  The journey crosses the Salkantay Pass (hence the name), descends through the jungly forest, and ends in the town of Aguas Calientes just outside of Machu Picchu.  It’s 70 kilometers beginning to end.  Before you start thinking the Salkantay is just a second rate consolation prize: Salkantay is less crowded than the Inca trail and was named among the 25 best Treks in the World by National Geographic.  So there. Note to self: I need to read and conquer that National Geographic list…. Getting Started The first day involves, of course, a 4am pickup followed by a short drive and a 12 km hike.  I would call the first half of the day a ‘wake the hell up’ hike.  It’s a moderate incline of 600 meters (3,300 meters to 3,900 meters) spread over 8 km.  It’s not too steep, but not too flat.  We stopped mid-day for lunch at a spot which was also our campsite for the night.  Following lunch, we had a 4 km roundtrip out and back trek up another 700 meters to Humantay Lake. Day one is supposed to be an easy/moderate day to get everyone used to altitude.  Supposed to be.  I think it’s more of a test so the guide knows which hikers he needs to keep an eye on. The morning wasn’t bad but the afternoon was a different story.  Two kilometers doesn’t sound like much but it was steep.  Several in our group struggled.  Not to be braggy, but I was not one of them.  I’d spent the last month scaling mountains across Peru, making me the most experienced at multi-day hikes and easily the best acclimatized.  I was right at the front.  Hiking, especially in altitude, isn’t a race to the top.  But it felt good to feel strong, as that hasn’t been the case for me on every trek.  Granted, I have the advantage of treating my outdoor adventures like full-time employment for the last few months.  Don’t care.  I’ll take it and I’ll brag about it along the way. Machu Picchu-ians I was one of 10 people in my hiking group. Time for introductions. The Canadians.  A family of four from Toronto.  The parents, Rosana and Po.  Their children, Justin and Crystal are both recent college graduates.  Can I take a second to note how fantastic it is that this family still travels together, even though their kids are well into their 20’s?  Can I be further amazed that they decided to trek to Machu Picchu together?? Seriously, wow.  Family goals. The rest of the group was Americans.  Amanda and Zoe are an Aunt and Niece duo from the Midwest.  Zoe, age 14, lives in Chicago with her parents.  Amanda recently moved to Minneapolis.  Since this is my hometown, it gave us something to chat about for the next few days.  Again, how great to have an Aunt who brings you with her on vacation to PERU when you’re 14??  You’re a lucky girl, Zoe. Next are Jon and Priya, the doctor couple from New York City.  Jon is a psychiatrist, and Priya works with premature babies in the NICU.  Both were very down to earth, obviously smart, and sociable people.  They’ve been together 5 years, and they’re yet another couple that seems to have discovered the key to a good relationship.  You see them together and you like them together. My tent-mate, Heiki, is originally from England but has lived in New York State for several years now.  She first came to the US on a school transfer program and ended up staying a few decades.  Heiki is well traveled, chatty, and has been traveling for the last few months on her own mini life adventure. Noteworthy Facts A few bloggable things of note about this trek. Firstly, the FOOD.  Holy cow, the food.  It was amazing.  I’ve never had anything like it on a trek before.  We had full on 7-8 course meals every day.  Salad, soup, five kinds of entrée, and dessert.  Our trekking guide Sergio told he had been trying to lose weight, but it was impossible with his job and this food.  I see what he means.  This was the best I’ve eaten in my entire time in South America.                     Next is our accommodation.  We didn’t stay in simple tents.  We stayed in sky domes and jungle huts. Here’s your picture.                     It was a glaringly obvious marketing ploy by this trekking company and I bought into it hook, line, and sinker.   It’s a badass way to sleep in the Peruvian mountains. Lastly, our guide.  I’ve enjoyed my trekking guides before, but Sergio was my favorite.  He was funny and energetic.  He reminded me of a little kid being excited to get outside and play.  His energy was infectious, and no matter what time of day, morning noon or night, he yelled ‘Good Mooooorrrning’ to get us motivated.  After the trek he sent a recording of this to the group over text.  You could make that your alarm clock and never wake up grumpy. Back to the Hike… The second day is long (about 22 km) and challenging, as you cross through Salkantay Pass at 4,600 meters.  The morning is full of steep climbs and high-altitude slow breathing, but it’s rewarded with views of snow capped mountains.                     The afternoon is a beautiful walk down with wide expansive views of mountains and forests below.  This was my favorite day.  You can tell in my picture poses full of energy and nature love.               The third day is a bit of a break.  It’s mostly downhill, and the temps get warmer as the group descends down the mountains.  The afternoon was reserved for a trip to a local hot spring.  We all welcomed this trekking vacation.   It was also a nice chance for the group to get to know each other better and commiserate about various muscle pains and forming blisters three days in. Day 4 I don’t even want to talk about.  It was long and grueling and I’ll be honest…I hated it.  We were warned that the morning would be tough.  A 7 km very steep hike, followed by 7 km step downhill, lunch, and a 12 km afternoon flat hike following the train tracks to Aguas Calientes.  I mentally prepared for the tough morning hike which turned out to be…not that tough.  I was pleasantly surprised.  Once we reached the top of the overpass, we also had our first views of the side of Machu Picchu.  I enjoyed this part.                       The afternoon was absolute shit.  I thought we’d have it easy walking flat next to the train tracks.  No.  It. Was. The. Worst.  It’s loose gravel, which is a pain to walk in.  Your foot is always slipping and it takes more energy to keep balance and momentum.  This part felt like it was never going to end.  There was nothing to look at, it was monotonous. Enough said. Machu Picchu And now the main attraction.  Machu Picchu. From Aguas Calientes, it’s possible to hike to Machu Picchu.  It takes less than an hour, but largely follows a windy uphill road.  After the prior day the group was in no mood for this.  The entire group bought a bus ticket to drive us 20 minutes to the entrance.  We woke up at 3:30 am so we were first in line for the bus which left at 5:20 am so we could be ready for Machu Picchu to open.  We were all pretty exhausted by now, but adrenaline and the promise of a UNESCO world heritage site kept us going. Our tour guide Sergio used to be a tour operator for Machu Picchu.  The prior night at dinner he asked us all if we trust him.  By now he’d guided us this far thorugh mountain overpasses, river crossings, and jungle climbs.  Sure we do.  Like kids in line at Disneyworld we were to push through the crowds on the opening of the Machu Picchu gate promptly at 6am.  No stopping for pictures, do not follow the crowds.  He knew the best spot to start the day. We pushed our fatigued muscles to climb yet even more stairs to his perfect high viewpoint. And well it really was perfect.  From here, we could take pictures and see the sunrise.  Our perfect spot and our pictures were largely untainted by crowds of tourists which would pile in later that day with their tour guide flags and selfie sticks. He didn’t steer us wrong.   Following the sunrise we followed Sergio for another hour while we got the tourist history of Machu Picchu before saying our goodbyes to him.  He was heading back home.  We had the day free to roam the ruins, aside from needing to return to Aguas Calientes in time to catch our train back to Cusco later that night. One More Mountain Some of us, myself included, had ideas to hike yet another mountain.  There are two options – Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain if you have pre-booked tickets, or walk to the Sun Gate for free.  Huayna Picchu is the mountain nearest to the site and is often depicted in pictures.  It’s a steep and narrow climb, but relatively short and can be completed in about an hour and a half.  Machu Picchu mountain is a little farther from the main site, but offers a higher viewpoint of the ruins.  Of course this means it’s longer and steeper.  And OF COURSE that’s the one I booked.  Sometimes I wonder when I’ll learn. Jonathan and Priya also had tickets for Machu Picchu mountain and so we walked to the entrance together.  Upon seeing the stone steps to get to the entrance, Priya smartly turned back.  She was done climbing mountains for the week.  Once we got past the entrance and saw that the entire trek involved...</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/07/machu-picchu-hiking-my-way-through-the-salkantay/">Machu Picchu: Hiking my way through the Salkantay</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #000080;">“Focus on the journey, not the destination. Joy is found not in finishing an activity but in doing it.”– <em>Greg Anderson</em></span></h5> </blockquote> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>The Backdrop</strong></span></h5> <p>It’s time for the apex, the highlight, the grand finale of a trip to Peru. Especially for what has turned into a mont of full blown TREKKING for me.</p> <p>Machu Picchu.</p> <p>I always planned to stop at this most famous of Peruvian sites. And I always knew I wasn’t going to be one of those tourists taking the train from Cusco for a day trip. No, I was hiking there. The only question was which route to take.</p> <p>As my travels wear on, my itinerary is getting more and more dependent on my daily mood, quantity of sleep, and the weather report. In other words, I don’t plan too far ahead. Therefore, the Inca trail is out. It has a limit of 500 permits a day. You have to book it months in advance. Obviously I didn’t do this.</p> <p>I’m left with a choice between the Lares and the Salkantay Trek. A travel lesson I’ve learned is the best insider info comes not from google searches and obsessive trip advisor reading, but from talking to actual insiders. I’ve met a lot of people while traveling. Many of them have hiked to Machu Picchu. Better yet, many of them are on a budget. So for everyone I meet, I ask – have you done one of these treks? What tour company did you use? Was the food good (hint: this is a super important question)? If I hear rave reviews about the same tour company twice? Well, then I HAVE to pick that one.</p> <p>This is how I landed on my choice for a 5 day classic Salkantay Trek with Salkantay Trekking. Easy to find, easy to remember.</p> <p>The Salkantay Trek is an considered an alternative route to the famous Inca Trail. The journey crosses the Salkantay Pass (hence the name), descends through the jungly forest, and ends in the town of Aguas Calientes just outside of Machu Picchu. It’s 70 kilometers beginning to end. Before you start thinking the Salkantay is just a second rate consolation prize: Salkantay is less crowded than the Inca trail and was named among the 25 best Treks in the World by National Geographic. So there.</p> <p>Note to self: I need to read and conquer that National Geographic list….</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Getting Started</strong></span></h5> <p>The first day involves, of course, a 4am pickup followed by a short drive and a 12 km hike. I would call the first half of the day a ‘wake the hell up’ hike. It’s a moderate incline of 600 meters (3,300 meters to 3,900 meters) spread over 8 km. It’s not too steep, but not too flat. We stopped mid-day for lunch at a spot which was also our campsite for the night. Following lunch, we had a 4 km roundtrip out and back trek up another 700 meters to Humantay Lake.</p> <figure id="attachment_680" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-680" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-680 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0834.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0834.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0834.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0834.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0834.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0834.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-680" class="wp-caption-text">Humantay Lake</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_678" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-678" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-678 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0851.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0851.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0851.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0851.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0851.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0851.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-678" class="wp-caption-text">It’s been awhile since I posted a jumping photo</figcaption></figure> <p><span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;">Day one is supposed to be an easy/moderate day to get everyone used to altitude. Supposed to be. I think it’s more of a test so the guide knows which hikers he needs to keep an eye on.</span></p> <p>The morning wasn’t bad but the afternoon was a different story. Two kilometers doesn’t sound like much but it was steep. Several in our group struggled. Not to be braggy, but I was not one of them. I’d spent the last month scaling mountains across Peru, making me the most experienced at multi-day hikes and easily the best acclimatized. I was right at the front. Hiking, especially in altitude, isn’t a race to the top. But it felt good to feel strong, as that hasn’t been the case for me on every trek. Granted, I have the advantage of treating my outdoor adventures like full-time employment for the last few months. Don’t care. I’ll take it and I’ll brag about it along the way.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Machu Picchu-ians</span></h5> <p>I was one of 10 people in my hiking group. Time for introductions.</p> <p>The Canadians. A family of four from Toronto. The parents, Rosana and Po. Their children, Justin and Crystal are both recent college graduates. Can I take a second to note how fantastic it is that this family still travels together, even though their kids are well into their 20’s? Can I be further amazed that they decided to <em>trek to Machu Picchu </em>together?? Seriously, wow. Family goals.</p> <p>The rest of the group was Americans. Amanda and Zoe are an Aunt and Niece duo from the Midwest. Zoe, age 14, lives in Chicago with her parents. Amanda recently moved to Minneapolis. Since this is my hometown, it gave us something to chat about for the next few days. Again, how <em>great</em> to have an Aunt who brings you with her on vacation to PERU when you’re 14?? You’re a lucky girl, Zoe.</p> <p>Next are Jon and Priya, the doctor couple from New York City. Jon is a psychiatrist, and Priya works with premature babies in the NICU. Both were very down to earth, obviously smart, and sociable people. They’ve been together 5 years, and they’re yet another couple that seems to have discovered the key to a good relationship. You see them together and you like them together.</p> <p>My tent-mate, Heiki, is originally from England but has lived in New York State for several years now. She first came to the US on a school transfer program and ended up staying a few decades. Heiki is well traveled, chatty, and has been traveling for the last few months on her own mini life adventure.</p> <figure id="attachment_689" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-689" style="width: 4032px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-689 size-full" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0893.jpg?resize=960%2C720&ssl=1" alt="" width="960" height="720" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0893.jpg?w=4032&ssl=1 4032w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0893.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0893.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0893.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0893.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0893.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0893.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-689" class="wp-caption-text">My Salkantay Hiking Group</figcaption></figure> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Noteworthy Facts</strong></span></h5> <p>A few bloggable things of note about this trek.</p> <p>Firstly, the FOOD. Holy cow, the food. It was amazing. I’ve never had anything like it on a trek before. We had full on 7-8 course meals every day. Salad, soup, five kinds of entrée, and dessert. Our trekking guide Sergio told he had been trying to lose weight, but it was impossible with his job and this food. I see what he means. This was the best I’ve eaten in my entire time in South America.</p> <figure id="attachment_674" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-674" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-674 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0668.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0668.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0668.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0668.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0668.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0668.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-674" class="wp-caption-text">Hope You’re Hungry, it’s Lunchtime</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_690" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-690" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-690 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0968.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0968.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0968.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0968.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0968.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0968.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-690" class="wp-caption-text">Camping Cake Anyone?</figcaption></figure> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>Next is our accommodation. We didn’t stay in simple tents. We stayed in sky domes and jungle huts. Here’s your picture.</p> <figure id="attachment_692" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-692" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-692 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0663.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0663.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0663.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0663.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0663.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0663.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-692" class="wp-caption-text">View from Inside the Sky Dome</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_705" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-705" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-705 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0966.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0966.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0966.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0966.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0966.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0966.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-705" class="wp-caption-text">Andean Huts</figcaption></figure> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>It was a glaringly obvious marketing ploy by this trekking company and I bought into it hook, line, and sinker. It’s a badass way to sleep in the Peruvian mountains.</p> <figure id="attachment_670" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-670" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-670 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0988.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0988.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0988.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0988.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0988.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0988.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-670" class="wp-caption-text">Sergio Giving Jonathan a Facepainting. Castaway-Wilson Style</figcaption></figure> <p>Lastly, our guide. I’ve enjoyed my trekking guides before, but Sergio was my favorite. He was funny and energetic. He reminded me of a little kid being excited to get outside and play. His energy was infectious, and no matter what time of day, morning noon or night, he yelled ‘Good Mooooorrrning’ to get us motivated. After the trek he sent a recording of this to the group over text. You could make that your alarm clock and never wake up grumpy.</p> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Back to the Hike…</strong></span></h5> <p>The second day is long (about 22 km) and challenging, as you cross through Salkantay Pass at 4,600 meters. The morning is full of steep climbs and high-altitude slow breathing, but it’s rewarded with views of snow capped mountains.</p> <figure id="attachment_687" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-687" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-687 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0873-1.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0873-1.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0873-1.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0873-1.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0873-1.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0873-1.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-687" class="wp-caption-text">Salktantay Pass</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_718" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-718" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-718 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0879-2-2.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0879-2-2.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0879-2-2.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0879-2-2.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0879-2-2.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0879-2-2.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0879-2-2.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-718" class="wp-caption-text">Views from Salkantay</figcaption></figure> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>The afternoon is a beautiful walk down with wide expansive views of mountains and forests below. This was my favorite day. You can tell in my picture poses full of energy and nature love.</p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-728 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0930-1.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0930-1.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0930-1.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0930-1.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0930-1.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0930-1.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0930-1.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-716 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0686-1.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0686-1.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0686-1.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0686-1.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0686-1.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0686-1.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0686-1.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>The third day is a bit of a break. It’s mostly downhill, and the temps get warmer as the group descends down the mountains. The afternoon was reserved for a trip to a local hot spring. We all welcomed this trekking vacation. It was also a nice chance for the group to get to know each other better and commiserate about various muscle pains and forming blisters three days in.</p> <figure id="attachment_702" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-702" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-702 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0970.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0970.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0970.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0970.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0970.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_0970.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-702" class="wp-caption-text">Descending on Day 2</figcaption></figure> <p>Day 4 I don’t even want to talk about. It was long and grueling and I’ll be honest…I hated it. We were warned that the morning would be tough. A 7 km very steep hike, followed by 7 km step downhill, lunch, and a 12 km afternoon flat hike following the train tracks to Aguas Calientes. I mentally prepared for the tough morning hike which turned out to be…not that tough. I was pleasantly surprised. Once we reached the top of the overpass, we also had our first views of the side of Machu Picchu. I enjoyed this part.</p> <figure id="attachment_719" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-719" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-719 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1253.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1253.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1253.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1253.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1253.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1253.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-719" class="wp-caption-text">Climbing Up</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_724" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-724" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-724 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1072-2.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1072-2.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1072-2.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1072-2.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1072-2.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1072-2.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1072-2.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-724" class="wp-caption-text">Third Day Views</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_721" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-721" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-721 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1065.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1065.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1065.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1065.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1065.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1065.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-721" class="wp-caption-text">First chance to see a little bit of Machu Picchu</figcaption></figure> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>The afternoon was absolute shit. I thought we’d have it easy walking flat next to the train tracks. No. It. Was. The. Worst. It’s loose gravel, which is a pain to walk in. Your foot is always slipping and it takes more energy to keep balance and momentum. This part felt like it was never going to end. There was nothing to look at, it was monotonous.</p> <figure id="attachment_673" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-673" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-673 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1096.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1096.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1096.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1096.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1096.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1096.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-673" class="wp-caption-text">The Train to Machu Picchu</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_672" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-672" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-672 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1108.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1108.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1108.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1108.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1108.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1108.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-672" class="wp-caption-text">Four hours of Walking Next to Train Tracks</figcaption></figure> <p>Enough said.</p> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Machu Picchu</strong></span></h5> <p>And now the main attraction. Machu Picchu.</p> <p>From Aguas Calientes, it’s possible to hike to Machu Picchu. It takes less than an hour, but largely follows a windy uphill road. After the prior day the group was in no mood for this. The entire group bought a bus ticket to drive us 20 minutes to the entrance. We woke up at 3:30 am so we were first in line for the bus which left at 5:20 am so we could be ready for Machu Picchu to open. We were all pretty exhausted by now, but adrenaline and the promise of a UNESCO world heritage site kept us going.</p> <p>Our tour guide Sergio used to be a tour operator for Machu Picchu. The prior night at dinner he asked us all if we trust him. By now he’d guided us this far thorugh mountain overpasses, river crossings, and jungle climbs. Sure we do. Like kids in line at Disneyworld we were to push through the crowds on the opening of the Machu Picchu gate promptly at 6am. No stopping for pictures, do not follow the crowds. He knew the best spot to start the day.</p> <figure id="attachment_684" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-684" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-684 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1360.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1360.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1360.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1360.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1360.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1360.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-684" class="wp-caption-text">The Classic Photo!</figcaption></figure> <p>We pushed our fatigued muscles to climb yet even more stairs to his perfect high viewpoint. And well it really was perfect. From here, we could take pictures and see the sunrise. Our perfect spot and our pictures were largely untainted by crowds of tourists which would pile in later that day with their tour guide flags and selfie sticks. He didn’t steer us wrong.</p> <figure id="attachment_712" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-712" style="width: 3024px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-712 size-full" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1163.jpg?resize=960%2C1280&ssl=1" alt="" width="960" height="1280" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1163.jpg?w=3024&ssl=1 3024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1163.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1163.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1163.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1163.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1163.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-712" class="wp-caption-text">Sunrise over Machu Picchu</figcaption></figure> <p> </p> <p>Following the sunrise we followed Sergio for another hour while we got the tourist history of Machu Picchu before saying our goodbyes to him. He was heading back home. We had the day free to roam the ruins, aside from needing to return to Aguas Calientes in time to catch our train back to Cusco later that night.</p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="alignleft wp-image-735 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1133.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1133.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1133.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1133.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1133.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1133.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="alignleft wp-image-710 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1152.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1152.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1152.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1152.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1152.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1152.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1152.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /></p> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>One More Mountain</strong></span></h5> <p>Some of us, myself included, had ideas to hike yet another mountain. There are two options – Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain if you have pre-booked tickets, or walk to the Sun Gate for free. Huayna Picchu is the mountain nearest to the site and is often depicted in pictures. It’s a steep and narrow climb, but relatively short and can be completed in about an hour and a half. Machu Picchu mountain is a little farther from the main site, but offers a higher viewpoint of the ruins. Of course this means it’s longer and steeper. And OF COURSE that’s the one I booked. Sometimes I wonder when I’ll learn.</p> <p>Jonathan and Priya also had tickets for Machu Picchu mountain and so we walked to the entrance together. Upon seeing the stone steps to get to the entrance, Priya smartly turned back. She was done climbing mountains for the week. Once we got past the entrance and saw that the entire trek involved steep stone steps, Jonathan smartly turned back. He didn’t care that we paid an extra $25 for this add on. He wasn’t up for the exhaustion.</p> <p>And what did I do? I stubbornly kept going straight up that damn mountain. One steep stone step after another. That’s all it was. It was one giant stone staircase for an hour and a half. No flat parts. No resting stops. Just stairs.</p> <figure id="attachment_731" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-731" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-731 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1260-1.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1260-1.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1260-1.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1260-1.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1260-1.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1260-1.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-731" class="wp-caption-text">Stairs on Stairs</figcaption></figure> <p>I’m glad I did it, but man, I’m a real sucker for self torment. As I huffed and I puffed and dragged my tired ass up there I thought – Why do I do this to myself? Why can’t I take a break and get some gelato once in awhile (although in truth, I have eaten copious amounts of ice cream on this trip)?</p> <p>Because I paid for it. I’m only at Machu Picchu once in a lifetime, and damn it, I was going to do it! That’s why.</p> <figure id="attachment_685" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-685" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-685 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1291.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1291.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1291.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1291.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1291.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1291.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1291.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-685" class="wp-caption-text">Atop Machu Picchu Mountain</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_739" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-739" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-739 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1314.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1314.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1314.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1314.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1314.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1314.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1314.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-739" class="wp-caption-text">The View from Machu Picchu Mountain</figcaption></figure> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>I’m happy I climbed it and proud of myself. But I was in rough shape after that. Walking down was almost as bad as climbing up. My feet hurt, my ankles hurt, and my muscles were aching. I was limping like a decrepit old lady. All I kept thinking was how I was going to get the energy to walk to the exit, grab the bus, walk to the hotel to grab my stuff, and then walk to the train station later that day. Dear god, HOW.</p> <figure id="attachment_736" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-736" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-736 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1311.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1311.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1311.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1311.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1311.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_1311.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-736" class="wp-caption-text">Climbing back down Machu Picchu Mountain</figcaption></figure> <p>I found a patch of grass and plopped down there for a good hour. I needed to work up my mental stamina again. Eventually I wandered back through the ruins, back to my hotel, and caught the train back to Cusco. It was all a blur, but it happened.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Peru in Summary</strong></span></h5> <p>All in all, Machu Picchu and Peru in general have been an incredible experience that I won’t soon forget. In the month I spent in Peru, I trekked over 150 kilometers, or about 100 miles. And I did this almost entirely in altitude between 3,000 and 5,000 meters. I may be unemployed, but I can still feel accomplished after that.</p> <p>After Machu Picchu I spent two more days in Cusco before leaving for my last stop in South America: Chile. I used hotel points and stayed in a Hilton Garden Inn in Cusco where I lazily spent the next two days lounging like a half dead crippled zombie. I demolished their buffet breakfast every morning to the point of normal human embarrassment. My big excursion was walking to downtown Cusco and getting a massage for 30 soles.</p> <p>One more week of adventure before heading home between continents. I may be wrapping up South America, but I’m FAR from done with this escapade.</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/07/machu-picchu-hiking-my-way-through-the-salkantay/">Machu Picchu: Hiking my way through the Salkantay</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://markingmymap.com/2018/07/machu-picchu-hiking-my-way-through-the-salkantay/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>4385</slash:comments> <post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">665</post-id> </item> <item> <title>Around Peru in 7 Days: Arequipa, Puno, and Rainbow Mtn</title> <link>https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/peruvian-hot-spots/</link> <comments>https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/peruvian-hot-spots/#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 25 Jun 2018 05:42:56 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Arequipa]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Cusco]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Peru]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Puno]]></category> <category><![CDATA[South America]]></category> <category><![CDATA[arequipa]]></category> <category><![CDATA[colca]]></category> <category><![CDATA[peru]]></category> <category><![CDATA[puno]]></category> <category><![CDATA[rainbow]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://markingmymap.com/?p=585</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>“Like all great travelers, I have seen more than I remember, and remember more than I have seen.” -Benjamin Disraeli Finishing Strong I have but a few precious weeks left in South America. In July I head back to US for a short break between continents. I’m trying not to think about it. I don’t want to leave. There are still so many things I want to do, and things I haven’t yet seen. This deadline has put me in traveling overdrive. I’m fighting my personal tendencies to exhaust myself. This is supposed to be a break, a travel sabbatical. Not full time tourist employment. But with my pending continental departure edging closer I can’t help but approach it like a job. More than once I’ve had to tell myself to CALM THE F DOWN. I can’t see everything. It’s better to enjoy the places I visit rather than jet set from place to place, trek to trek, exhausting myself along the way. Over activity is my natural Cassie tendency. Fit in all in. Catch up on sleep later at a time that never comes. I’m trying to land somewhere in the middle. At one point I really wanted to add a last minute excursion to Bolivia to see the salt flats. But damn, I’d be cutting it close on time. Also I’d need a visa. This is a hassle. I decided this is too much. No Bolivia. Also, I might still change my mind. In the meantime, here’s what I was able to fit into a mere week of travel. Hear that, a mere WEEK! Arequipa Arequipa is Peru’s second largest city. It’s south of Lima, but inland. I can’t say I saw all the city has to offer. I spent several nights walking around the Plaza de Armas and the historical district, but that’s about it. I’m here to trek Colca Canyon. In addition to over-packing my schedule, I also have a tendency to over-research. I can spend hours looking up hostels, tour groups, destinations, etc, reading reviews and looking for the perfect deal. I like full information before making a commitment. In traveling and life this is a tiring trait. I’m trying to be better at making quick decisions, and I tested this with Colca Canyon. I found a tour company for a 3 day trek. The price seemed ok, and I booked it without looking back. Gambles don’t always pay off. I thought my tour was cheap but I actually overpaid. And the company wasn’t the greatest. If I had done my research I also probably would have booked a 2 day tour, as it would have covered the same trekking route but with fewer breaks. The 3 day trek was beautiful, but slow. We trekked about 3 hours a day and had a lot of rest time. This is not my how I like to roll. But, you know what? Maybe the downtime isn’t so bad. I could use more practice doing nothing. Colca Canyon: Fits and Starts I don’t want to be a negative nelly, so I’m starting with the positives. The trek and the canyon were stunning. I had a great local tour guide with an interesting life story. The weather was perfect. Also, while the tour was slow and uneventful at times, the last day started with an early morning, 3 hour hike ascending 1,000 meters. Covering this height in such short amount of time was a personal record for me. I also did it at altitude (over 3,000 meters) which is another notable feat as well as good practice for future treks. So there, it wasn’t all bad. Now the not so great. The tour company I chose was super disorganized. The tour guide showed up 30 minutes early to pick me up. I was told to be ready at 3:30am, and they showed up just after 3am. I don’t know about you, but when I have to be ready in the middle of the night in vampire happy hour, I don’t get ready extra early ‘just in case’. No….I was set to be ready at exactly 3:29 am. Luckily I was awake when they arrived. I moved my butt and got ready in 8 minutes flat. I thought I did well, but the guide was clearly not happy. Whatever. They let me in the van. From my hotel, we began the 3 hour drive to the Canyon. Thirty minutes in, the van pulled over on the side of a highway and I was told to get out and switch to another van parked on the shoulder in front of us. No real explanation. Awesome. Then at breakfast I learned I was eating with a group of people who were only on a one day tour. After questioning my ‘new’ tour guide I found out I needed to switch vans again later in the day to join my actual tour. Again, no explanation. No feigned surprise when I brought this up. Nope. Just – oh yeah you’ll need to join a different van again later. Thanks for telling me the plan, guys. I spent a few hours with the one-day tour, before getting dropped off at a campsite with several other trekkers and told to find my guide James. Except it was actually David. James was running the 2-day trekking tour. David was guide for the 3-day. So yeah, not off to the best of starts. I felt like I was in some kind of escape room trekking experience. I needed to follow the clues to make sure I got on the right tour before time ran up and they left without me. Hiking the Canyon David, it turns out, was a great guide. He grew up near the Canyon. His father is a local Shaman so David knew all about the indigenous plant fauna. When David was 18, he started working at the local mine as this was the main career opportunity available in a rural canyon in Peru. Mining is hard work, and so he saw a lot of people get hurt and/or killed. After he started seeing negative effects on his own health he decided he needed a different career path. He left home for Arequipa and enrolled in school to learn English and become a tour guide. By now he was in his mid 20’s. He’d never left home before, had never been to a big city, and had heard very little spoken English. He showed up to the ‘big’ city of Arequipa wearing repurposed rubber tires for shoes. Fast forward a few years. He learned the language of tourists, got a degree in tourism, and had a new career giving tours of the Canyon. Hearing a story like this makes you realize what you take for granted. Like the availability of choices. I’m so lucky to have choices in life. I may feel confused and at times overwhelmed by the choice of how best to earn a living, but at least I have the luxury of that choice. Not everyone is so lucky. For some people, the only options are mining or farming. And if you have real gumption and commitment, tour guiding. I really admire David’s ability to find a path to a better life for himself and work hard to get it. There were 11 of us in the tour group. Everyone was friendly. But…I have to say it wasn’t the most social of groups. It was mostly couples and mostly (7 of 11) French speaking. That left me, a german couple and an anti-social American who told me he preferred to hike fast and alone. Ok, bud. The germans were lovely and I liked talking to them. But there was a lot of self-entertainment time. I much prefer making new friends and sharing the experience. Sometimes there just isn’t the opportunity. Such is life. Overall it wasn’t my favorite hike. But it was pretty and relaxing. I probably needed that. Puno Next top after Arequipa…Puno. Puno sits on Lake Titicaca, the highest altitude navigable lake in the world. The lake’s elevation is 3,800 meters and it spans between Peru and Bolivia. Puno is the city on the Peruvian side. Copacabana….the Bolivian side. To get to Puno, I took an overnight bus from Arequipa, spent one night in a hostel in Puno, took a full day tour of the lake the next day, and then another overnight bus that evening to Cusco. Like I said, I’m trying to fit a lot in. This plan worked out ok. Puno is agreeable enough, but there isn’t much to see or do besides visit the lake. My first day here, I walked to the Plaza de Armas (there’s always one of these), and followed signs to a look out point without really knowing where I was going. Sometimes I like a spontaneous adventure. It turns out the look out point is a giant metal condor statue atop of a mountainous hill. It’s so very….random. Which I like. Also, no one was up there, which was also great. I had the awkwardly, but interestingly unique metal bird and the view all to myself. The negative is that its atop of ANOTHER DAMN HILL. My legs are tired of climbing hills. Furthermore, I missed the sign pointing to a conveniently placed set of man made stairs. At the direction of a local, I climbed up a steep hillside to see this metal peruvian chicken, completely missing the staircase 100 feet to my right. Whoops. Given that a steep climb to a metal bird statue is the highlight of city sights in Puno, you can see why one day is plenty. Lake Titicaca The next day I toured Lake Titicaca. My tour made two stops. The first stop was to the famous Uros floating islands. The second is to the firmly grounded island of Taquile. What exactly is a floating island, you may be asking. Well, it’s a man-made island made entirely out of reeds. Local indigenous people cut squares of mud out of reed roots to build a base. They anchor and tie these mud blocks together, which float due to the release of CO2 by the root system. On top of this, local add cut reed stems, and build reed houses and other structures. The practice started with the indigenous people first building boats out of reeds to fish on the lake. This then progressed to houses on boats, which progressed to entire small islands. Uros consists of a few dozen islands. Each island lasts about 25 years before needing to be rebuilt and is home to a handful of families. It’s strangely interesting. Right now, the main economy of these islands is tourism. It’s super touristy. I don’t normally like this kind of thing, but in this case I did. I’ve simply never seen anything like it. Walking on the island was what I would imagine walking on quicksand feels like. It’s not completely solid, but it’s can hold your weight with some sinkage. So. Weird. The second island, Taquile, was a more traditional stop at a more traditional island made of firmly planed dirt. It included lunch, and a view of the Bolivian side of the lake. I liked the tour. I was entertained, and felt satisfied that I saw what I came to see in Puno. Time another night bus. Cusco and Rainbow Mountain Similar to many other tourists and travelers, I came to Cusco in search of Machu Picchu. I’m scheduled to trek the Salkantay in late June. But before doing that, the other site I came to see is Rainbow mountain, or the mountain of seven colors (la montaña de siete colores) in Spanish. It’s an Instagram-friendly mountain that has become a popular destination in recent years. If so Insta-worthy, then why only recently popular? Well the mountain is covered with snow most of the time. But thanks to global warming, the snow has largely melted in recent years making the colors more visible. ...</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/peruvian-hot-spots/">Around Peru in 7 Days: Arequipa, Puno, and Rainbow Mtn</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote> <h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #000080;">“Like all great travelers, I have seen more than I remember, and remember more than I have seen.” -Benjamin Disraeli</span></h4> </blockquote> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Finishing Strong</strong></span></h5> <p>I have but a few precious weeks left in South America. In July I head back to US for a short break between continents. I’m trying not to think about it. I don’t want to leave. There are still so many things I want to do, and things I haven’t yet seen.</p> <p>This deadline has put me in traveling overdrive.</p> <p>I’m fighting my personal tendencies to exhaust myself. This is supposed to be a break, a travel sabbatical. Not full time tourist employment. But with my pending continental departure edging closer I can’t help but approach it like a job. More than once I’ve had to tell myself to CALM THE F DOWN. I can’t see everything. It’s better to enjoy the places I visit rather than jet set from place to place, trek to trek, exhausting myself along the way. Over activity is my natural Cassie tendency. Fit in all in. Catch up on sleep later at a time that never comes.</p> <p>I’m trying to land somewhere in the middle. At one point I really wanted to add a last minute excursion to Bolivia to see the salt flats. But damn, I’d be cutting it close on time. Also I’d need a visa. This is a hassle. I decided this is too much. No Bolivia.</p> <p>Also, I might still change my mind.</p> <p>In the meantime, here’s what I was able to fit into a mere week of travel. Hear that, a mere WEEK!</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Arequipa </strong></span></h5> <p>Arequipa is Peru’s second largest city. It’s south of Lima, but inland. I can’t say I saw all the city has to offer. I spent several nights walking around the Plaza de Armas and the historical district, but that’s about it.</p> <figure id="attachment_604" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-604" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-604 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9829.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Peru" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9829.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9829.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9829.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9829.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9829.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-604" class="wp-caption-text">Plaza de Armas in Arequipa</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_603" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-603" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-603 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9818.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Peru" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9818.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9818.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9818.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9818.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9818.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-603" class="wp-caption-text">Mountain Views in Arequipa</figcaption></figure> <p>I’m here to trek Colca Canyon.</p> <p>In addition to over-packing my schedule, I also have a tendency to over-research. I can spend hours looking up hostels, tour groups, destinations, etc, reading reviews and looking for the perfect deal. I like full information before making a commitment. In traveling and life this is a tiring trait. I’m trying to be better at making quick decisions, and I tested this with Colca Canyon. I found a tour company for a 3 day trek. The price seemed ok, and I booked it without looking back.</p> <p>Gambles don’t always pay off. I thought my tour was cheap but I actually overpaid. And the company wasn’t the greatest. If I had done my research I also probably would have booked a 2 day tour, as it would have covered the same trekking route but with fewer breaks. The 3 day trek was beautiful, but slow. We trekked about 3 hours a day and had a lot of rest time. This is not my how I like to roll. But, you know what? Maybe the downtime isn’t so bad. I could use more practice doing nothing.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Colca Canyon: Fits and Starts</strong></span></h5> <p>I don’t want to be a negative nelly, so I’m starting with the positives. The trek and the canyon were stunning. I had a great local tour guide with an interesting life story. The weather was perfect. Also, while the tour was slow and uneventful at times, the last day started with an early morning, 3 hour hike ascending 1,000 meters. Covering this height in such short amount of time was a personal record for me. I also did it at altitude (over 3,000 meters) which is another notable feat as well as good practice for future treks.</p> <figure id="attachment_590" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-590" style="width: 960px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-590 size-large" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0069.jpg?resize=960%2C720&ssl=1" alt="Peru" width="960" height="720" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0069.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0069.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0069.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0069.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0069.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0069.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-590" class="wp-caption-text">Colca Canyon</figcaption></figure> <p>So there, it wasn’t all bad.</p> <figure id="attachment_597" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-597" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-597 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0037.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="Peru" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0037.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0037.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0037.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0037.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0037.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0037.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-597" class="wp-caption-text">Early Morning Views on the Last Day</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_592" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-592" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-592 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0046.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="Peru" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0046.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0046.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0046.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0046.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0046.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0046.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-592" class="wp-caption-text">My Coffee Reward for Finishing the 1000 meter Climb on the Last Day</figcaption></figure> <p>Now the not so great. The tour company I chose was super disorganized. The tour guide showed up 30 minutes early to pick me up. I was told to be ready at 3:30am, and they showed up just after 3am. I don’t know about you, but when I have to be ready in the middle of the night in vampire happy hour, I don’t get ready extra early ‘just in case’. No….I was set to be ready at exactly 3:29 am. Luckily I was awake when they arrived. I moved my butt and got ready in 8 minutes flat. I thought I did well, but the guide was clearly not happy.</p> <p>Whatever. They let me in the van.</p> <p>From my hotel, we began the 3 hour drive to the Canyon. Thirty minutes in, the van pulled over on the side of a highway and I was told to get out and switch to another van parked on the shoulder in front of us. No real explanation. Awesome. Then at breakfast<span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;"> I learned I was eating with a group of people who were only on a one day tour. After</span><span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;"> questioning my ‘new’ tour guide I found out I needed to switch vans again later in the day to join my actual tour. Again, no explanation. No feigned surprise when I brought this up. Nope. Just – oh yeah you’ll need to join a different van again later. </span></p> <p><span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;">Thanks for telling me the plan, guys.</span></p> <p>I spent a few hours with the one-day tour, before getting dropped off at a campsite with several other trekkers and told to find my guide James. Except it was actually David. James was running the 2-day trekking tour. David was guide for the 3-day.</p> <p>So yeah, not off to the best of starts. I felt like I was in some kind of escape room trekking experience. I needed to follow the clues to make sure I got on the right tour before time ran up and they left without me.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Hiking the Canyon</strong></span></h5> <p>David, it turns out, was a great guide. He grew up near the Canyon. His father is a local Shaman so David knew all about the indigenous plant fauna. When David was 18, he started working at the local mine as this was the main career opportunity available in a rural canyon in Peru. Mining is hard work, and so he saw a lot of people get hurt and/or killed. After he started seeing negative effects on his own health he decided he needed a different career path. He left home for Arequipa and enrolled in school to learn English and become a tour guide. By now he was in his mid 20’s. He’d never left home before, had never been to a big city, and had heard very little spoken English. He showed up to the ‘big’ city of Arequipa wearing repurposed rubber tires for shoes.</p> <p>Fast forward a few years. He learned the language of tourists, got a degree in tourism, and had a new career giving tours of the Canyon.</p> <p>Hearing a story like this makes you realize what you take for granted. Like the availability of choices. I’m so lucky to have choices in life. I may feel confused and at times overwhelmed by the choice of how best to earn a living, but at least I have the luxury of that choice. Not everyone is so lucky. For some people, the only options are mining or farming. And if you have real gumption and commitment, tour guiding.</p> <p>I really admire David’s ability to find a path to a better life for himself and work hard to get it.</p> <p>There were 11 of us in the tour group. Everyone was friendly. But…I have to say it wasn’t the most social of groups. It was mostly couples and mostly (7 of 11) French speaking. That left me, a german couple and an anti-social American who told me he preferred to hike fast and alone. Ok, bud. The germans were lovely and I liked talking to them. But there was a lot of self-entertainment time. I much prefer making new friends and sharing the experience. Sometimes there just isn’t the opportunity. Such is life.</p> <figure id="attachment_589" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-589" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-589 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9930.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="Peru" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9930.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9930.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9930.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9930.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9930.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9930.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-589" class="wp-caption-text">Colca Canyon Hiking Group</figcaption></figure> <p>Overall it wasn’t my favorite hike. But it was pretty and relaxing. I probably needed that.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Puno</strong></span></h5> <p>Next top after Arequipa…Puno. Puno sits on Lake Titicaca, the highest altitude navigable lake in the world. The lake’s elevation is 3,800 meters and it spans between Peru and Bolivia. Puno is the city on the Peruvian side. Copacabana….the Bolivian side.</p> <p>To get to Puno, I took an overnight bus from Arequipa, spent one night in a hostel in Puno, took a full day tour of the lake the next day, and then another overnight bus that evening to Cusco.</p> <p>Like I said, I’m trying to fit a lot in.</p> <p>This plan worked out ok. Puno is agreeable enough, but there isn’t much to see or do besides visit the lake. My first day here, I walked to the Plaza de Armas (there’s always one of these), and followed signs to a look out point without really knowing where I was going. Sometimes I like a spontaneous adventure. It turns out the look out point is a giant metal condor statue atop of a mountainous hill. It’s so very….random. Which I like. Also, no one was up there, which was also great. I had the awkwardly, but interestingly unique metal bird and the view all to myself.</p> <figure id="attachment_605" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-605" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-605 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0190.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Puno" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0190.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0190.jpg?resize=768%2C1022&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0190.jpg?resize=769%2C1024&ssl=1 769w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0190.jpg?resize=1140%2C1517&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0190.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-605" class="wp-caption-text">Just me and this Bird</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_606" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-606" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-606 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0160.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="Puno" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0160.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0160.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0160.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0160.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0160.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0160.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-606" class="wp-caption-text">CONDOR</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_608" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-608" style="width: 960px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-608 size-large" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0199.jpg?resize=960%2C720&ssl=1" alt="Puno" width="960" height="720" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0199.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0199.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0199.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0199.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0199.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0199.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-608" class="wp-caption-text">Puno and Lake Titicaca</figcaption></figure> <p>The negative is that its atop of ANOTHER DAMN HILL. My legs are tired of climbing hills. Furthermore, I missed the sign pointing to a conveniently placed set of man made stairs. At the direction of a local, I climbed up a steep hillside to see this metal peruvian chicken, completely missing the staircase 100 feet to my right. Whoops.</p> <figure id="attachment_610" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-610" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-610 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0155.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Puno" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0155.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0155.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0155.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0155.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0155.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-610" class="wp-caption-text">Steep Hill: Cassie Route</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_607" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-607" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-607 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0210.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Puno" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0210.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0210.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0210.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0210.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0210.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-607" class="wp-caption-text">Easy Staircase: Common Tourist Route</figcaption></figure> <p>Given that a steep climb to a metal bird statue is the highlight of city sights in Puno, you can see why one day is plenty.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Lake Titicaca</strong></span></h5> <p>The next day I toured Lake Titicaca. My tour made two stops. The first stop was to the famous Uros floating islands. The second is to the firmly grounded island of Taquile.</p> <p>What exactly is a floating island, you may be asking. Well, it’s a man-made island made entirely out of reeds. Local indigenous people cut squares of mud out of reed roots to build a base. They anchor and tie these mud blocks together, which float due to the release of CO2 by the root system. On top of this, local add cut reed stems, and build reed houses and other structures.</p> <p>The practice started with the indigenous people first building boats out of reeds to fish on the lake. This then progressed to houses on boats, which progressed to entire small islands. Uros consists of a few dozen islands. Each island lasts about 25 years before needing to be rebuilt and is home to a handful of families.</p> <p>It’s strangely interesting.</p> <figure id="attachment_621" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-621" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-621 size-medium" style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0232-1.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="Puno" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0232-1.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0232-1.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0232-1.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0232-1.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0232-1.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0232-1.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-621" class="wp-caption-text">Reed Island</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_620" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-620" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-620 size-medium" style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0233.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="Puno" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0233.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0233.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0233.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0233.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0233.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0233.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-620" class="wp-caption-text">Houses Made of Reeds</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_614" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-614" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-614 size-medium" style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0243.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Puno" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0243.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0243.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0243.jpg?resize=1140%2C1519&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0243.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-614" class="wp-caption-text">Reed Boats</figcaption></figure> <p>Right now, the main economy of these islands is tourism. It’s <em>super</em> touristy. I don’t normally like this kind of thing, but in this case I did. I’ve simply never seen anything like it. Walking on the island was what I would imagine walking on quicksand feels like. It’s not completely solid, but it’s can hold your weight with some sinkage. So. Weird.</p> <p>The second island, Taquile, was a more traditional stop at a more traditional island made of firmly planed dirt. It included lunch, and a view of the Bolivian side of the lake.</p> <figure id="attachment_616" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-616" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-616 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0268.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="Puno" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0268.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0268.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0268.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0268.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0268.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0268.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-616" class="wp-caption-text">Bolivian Views from Taquile</figcaption></figure> <p>I liked the tour. I was entertained, and felt satisfied that I saw what I came to see in Puno.</p> <p>Time another night bus.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Cusco and Rainbow Mountain</strong></span></h5> <p>Similar to many other tourists and travelers, I came to Cusco in search of Machu Picchu. I’m scheduled to trek the Salkantay in late June. But before doing that, the other site I came to see is Rainbow mountain, or the mountain of seven colors (la montaña de siete colores) in Spanish. It’s an Instagram-friendly mountain that has become a popular destination in recent years.</p> <p>If so Insta-worthy, then why only recently popular? Well the mountain is covered with snow most of the time. But thanks to global warming, the snow has largely melted in recent years making the colors more visible. See! Environmental pollution isn’t just melting icebergs and destroying our planet, it’s also creating new tourist opportunities!</p> <figure id="attachment_627" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-627" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-627 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0346.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0346.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0346.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0346.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0346.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0346.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-627" class="wp-caption-text">Welcome to Rainbow Mountain</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_635" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-635" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-635 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0343.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0343.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0343.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0343.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0343.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0343.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-635" class="wp-caption-text">Starting the Hike</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_636" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-636" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-636 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0480.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0480.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0480.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0480.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0480.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0480.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0480.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-636" class="wp-caption-text">FYI – It’s Winter in South America</figcaption></figure> <p>Aside from the social media benefits, the other feat I get to achieve with this hike is reaching my highest elevation. Rainbow mountain is at 5,200 meters, or over 17,000 feet. Before this trek, my personal best elevation was hiking through the Punta Union Pass at 4,750 meters on the Santa Cruz trail earlier this month.</p> <p>I went into this hike feeling strong and positive. The month of June I’m doing a full-on Peruvian trekking training program. Rainbow Mountain is a one day hike. The typical route is 6 km out and back. I added a return hike through the Red Valley which adds some distance, but it still caps out at 17 km. I thought – only one day?! I’ve got this in the bag!</p> <p>Confidence of this kind is destined to be reality checked by nature.</p> <p>Holy moly, 5,200 meters is high! And so. Damn. Hard. To breathe. I thought I would do ok having been hiking in high altitude for the last several weeks. On Rainbow Mountain I learned there is a big difference between 4,750 and 5,200 meters. It didn’t take more than 20 steps for me to run out of breath at that altitude. But you know what – I still finished!</p> <figure id="attachment_638" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-638" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-638 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0455.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0455.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0455.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0455.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0455.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0455.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0455.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-638" class="wp-caption-text">Rainbow Mountain</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_630" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-630" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-630 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0414.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="Peru" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0414.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0414.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0414.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0414.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0414.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0414.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-630" class="wp-caption-text">Insta Ready</figcaption></figure> <p>The only negative of this experience was realizing how crowded the mountain gets. The pictures I’ve seen show people atop a mostly vacant mountain with clear views. This is not the case. The views were spectacular, but I shared them with several dozen other tourists, as well as a handful of locals and a few baby alpacas there for pictures and good measure. The tour guides give their group members color coded walking sticks so they can recognize their specific hikers in the hoard. But, hey. More people means we can take each others’ pictures. Sure, it was crowded, but I wasn’t stuck with a day of selfies. So I don’t mind!</p> <figure id="attachment_651" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-651" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-651 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0461.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0461.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0461.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0461.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0461.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0461.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-651" class="wp-caption-text">Some of This</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_652" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-652" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-652 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0474.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0474.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0474.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0474.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0474.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0474.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-652" class="wp-caption-text">Some of That</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_653" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-653" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-653 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0507.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0507.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0507.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0507.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0507.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0507.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0507.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-653" class="wp-caption-text">And a Little Something Else</figcaption></figure> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>The Red Valley</strong></span></h5> <p>My big surprise and the real highlight was the trek back through the Red Valley. I didn’t know much about this area going into the hike, so I benefited from not having expectations or pre-conceived notions. I also got to enjoy the hike largely by myself. The crowds don’t take this route, and I was the only one in my hiking group who researched enough to add it. So I got to do the entire hike with just me and one of the guides. For just $10 extra! Best bargain yet in South America!</p> <figure id="attachment_637" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-637" style="width: 1080px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-637 size-full" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0635.jpg?resize=960%2C959&ssl=1" alt="Peru" width="960" height="959" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0635.jpg?w=1080&ssl=1 1080w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0635.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0635.jpg?resize=325%2C325&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0635.jpg?resize=768%2C767&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0635.jpg?resize=1024%2C1024&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0635.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0635.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-637" class="wp-caption-text">Red Valley</figcaption></figure> <p>I loved this hike. We started at 5,200 meters and descended to 4,300 meters over the course of 3 hours. The snow melted, and my guide and I walked largely alone amongst fiery red mountains, gleaming green pastures, azure skies and the occasional llama/alpaca farm. Scenery wise, this was one of my favorite hikes ever. This was one of the days where I counted my lucky stars that I made the decision to quit my job, leave my office behind for several months and travel. What a beautiful day.</p> <figure id="attachment_646" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-646" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-646 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0535-1.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0535-1.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0535-1.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0535-1.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0535-1.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0535-1.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-646" class="wp-caption-text">My Guide Wilfredo and His Alpaca Friends</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_641" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-641" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-641 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0544.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0544.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0544.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0544.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0544.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0544.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-641" class="wp-caption-text">Views of the Valley at Lower Elevation</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_657" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-657" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-657 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0580.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0580.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0580.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0580.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0580.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0580.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-657" class="wp-caption-text">No Crowds to be Seen on this Trail</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_658" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-658" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-658 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0559.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0559.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0559.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0559.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0559.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0559.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-658" class="wp-caption-text">Green Pastures</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_659" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-659" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-659 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0567.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0567.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0567.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0567.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0567.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0567.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-659" class="wp-caption-text">Alpaca Views</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_660" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-660" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-660 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0555.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0555.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0555.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0555.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0555.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0555.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-660" class="wp-caption-text">Pretty Vistas</figcaption></figure> <p>I can’t wait to see what else Peru has to offer. My next stop is the Salkantay trek, and Machu Picchu.</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/peruvian-hot-spots/">Around Peru in 7 Days: Arequipa, Puno, and Rainbow Mtn</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/peruvian-hot-spots/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>3954</slash:comments> <post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">585</post-id> </item> <item> <title>Trekking Love: The Santa Cruz Trail in Peru</title> <link>https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/happiness-is-hiking-the-santa-cruz-trail-in-peru/</link> <comments>https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/happiness-is-hiking-the-santa-cruz-trail-in-peru/#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 11 Jun 2018 04:33:18 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Huaraz]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Peru]]></category> <category><![CDATA[South America]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Santa Cruz]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://markingmymap.com/?p=507</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>“The great difference between voyages rests not with the ships, but with the people you meet on them.” – Amelia E. Barr Huaraz After leaving Lima I took a night bus 8 hours north to the town of Huaraz. I arrived at 5:30 in the morning, exhausted, and ready to hike. Huaraz sits in central/northern Peru, is surrounded by the Andean mountains, and is more than 3,000 meters above sea level. It’s a few hours drive from Huarascán National Park. Within this park resides the peaks of the Cordillera Blanca range and Peru’s tallest mountain, Huarascán at 6,758 meters. Visiting trekkers have no shortage of choices here. You can opt for anything from a single day hike to the crystal blue glacial Lake 69, to a full multi-day/week mountaineering trek to the top of Huarascán and other nearby peaks. I love trekking, but hate freezing my ass off, so I booked a middle of the road trekking option with a little bit of everything. Namely, the four day, three night Santa Cruz trek. The Santa Cruz route is just over 50 km and includes a walk through through Punta Union pass at 4,750 meters (that’s over 15,000 feet America!). While this pales in comparison to the highest mountains in the area, it’s still a good chance to experience hiking in elevation without going so high you need oxygen tanks and pick axes. It also includes an additional side hike to Lake Arhuaycocha at 4,450 meters. Most importantly of all, it’s a good amount of time to test if your personality is intriguing enough where people still like you after not showering for four days. After my experience sweating like an oldie surrounded with a gang of college kids hiking the Ciudad Perdida trail in Colombia, I started this trek excited but mildly nervous. I was ready to get back out in nature and out of cell service range. But I was silently praying that I wouldn’t be stuck trekking once again with super fit, trail racing youths. I’ve enjoyed the company of quite a few 20 somethings on this trip who are smart enough to explore the world before they get bogged down with real world responsibility. But where are all the grown-ups who have tried and rejected adult-ing in favor of quitting their jobs and blowing their life savings accounts?? I’d like to run into a few of them once in awhile. For the Santa Cruz trek, I hit the jackpot. I could not have asked for a better tour company, more beautiful scenery, or a more fun, social, hilarious, fascinating, grown ass group of people to hike with. I was sad to part ways with them at the end of the trek. The Group A quick introduction to the trekking group. First there were the Poles. Four of them. All of them from Poland. None of them currently living in Poland. The sisters, Jo Anna and Gosha have lived and worked in Irish and England, respectively, for the last several years. You can tell they’re close and the two of them take a few week trip abroad together every year. They’re also a trip themselves. Especially Jo Anna who is a spitfire of hilarity and attitude. Their friends, Magda and her husband Rafal also live in London but are in process of moving back to Poland. Such nice people. I told Magda and Rafal that I planned on traveling to Poland later in the year. We exchanged info and they told me to in touch when I visit. I would love to. The Poles also aren’t afraid of stopping every so often to take cheesy, campy pictures with a local donkey or mountainous background. I find this an incredibly endearing quality. Moving on. Alan and Kate are a British couple who have been together for over 20 years. They’re the kind of couple who you want to ask their secret for getting along so well for so long. They’re avid and experienced hikers and campers, but this was their first organized trek. Even when hiking through altitude, Kate and Alan were always cracking jokes or getting to know someone on the trail. I don’t know how they did this because I couldn’t breath. Kate has has the most interesting of career changes from Nuclear Physicist to Optometrist. She’s pretty much the sweetest, and Alan’s never failing British dad humor was a welcome addition. I learned all about the town of Wigan as well as a few new British slang terms thanks to them. The group also included two other solo travelers in addition to myself – Ryan and Liset. Ryan is from South Africa and is somewhere in his 30’s. He’s an engineer on a career travel break. He’s smart, friendly and a triathlete, but in an un-intimidating way. I don’t think I can mention Ryan without talking about his beard. After four days of trekking and not showering, I kept waiting for it to look anything but well manicured and sculpted but it never did. Some people just have good beard genes. He also has a wicked sense of humor made all the drier by a straight face hidden behind his facial mane. Liset was my tent mate. She’s Dutch and and is in her late 20’s. She works in tech/marketing, and was working for Twitter in Ireland before quitting her job. She’s been traveling for about a year, and is about to wrap up her travels to head back to the Netherlands to live with her long term boyfriend. We had several lengthy deep life conversations in our tent into the ‘late’ hours (i.e. well past 9pm). I like her a lot. She gave me a lot of ideas of new places to add to my future travel itinerary. I lucked out in the roommate lottery. The Hike I’m not going to bore you here with the minute by minute details of this trek. But I’ll give a quick and dirty outline mostly focused on visual aids (i.e. pictures). Suffice it to stay it was one of my favorite hikes ever and I won’t soon forget it. The first day consisted mostly driving to the national park, followed by a short 3 hour trek in the afternoon. It was an overcast day, and we got lightly rained on. But overall it was a good introduction to the trail itself, and it offered time for the group to get acquainted. The second day involved trekking through Punta Union and the highest elevation of the trek. It was grey and overcast, and I learned real quick this day what hiking in altitude feels like. Luckily I didn’t feel any of the symptoms associated with full on altitude sickness such as bad headaches and nausea. But boy, the air sure is thin at that height. The hike itself wasn’t that steep, but walking just 50 feet on an incline in high altitude can make you feel like your lungs are about to jump out of your chest. It’s no joke. I went back to my tried and true method of counting steps to keep me moving. On this hike I also started singing myself a song/chant to keep my breathing steady and my focus away from thoughts of stopping. It goes something like this: “Put one foot in front of the OOoooo-ther. One foot in front of the OOoooo-ther. MOVE YOUR DAMN foot in front of the other. And that’s how your ass is getting to the top.” Yeah, I’m not winning a grammy any time soon. But I made it to the overpass just fine. And I wasn’t even last. Happily in the middle for most of the trek. So it works. Before I knew it we made it over the overpass in time to build a snowman and have lunch. The thin air and lack of oxygen helped provide a feeling of elation. But I don’t care, this was the highest elevation I’ve ever trekked and it was invigorating. The group agreed. We spent the afternoon hiking down a few hundred meters to camp below the overpass. I don’t love sleeping in tents. I can’t get comfortable sleeping on the ground, and I need to splay my limbs out in my sleep more than a sleeping bag allows. But with views like this, who’s complaining! Mountain sunsets made the experience much easier to handle. Day three included a side trek to the glacial lake. We covered the longest distance on this day. Since the lake sits at 4,300 meters, it also included a short stretch of strenuous uphill hiking. This day was by far my favorite. The weather finally cleared and we got sunny blue skies for much of the day. I got sunburned. Not even mad about it. The scenery was amazing. You can see several tall mountain peaks during the trek, including the mountain used for the Paramount logo. By the time we reached the glacial lake, the group had gotten to know each other pretty well. We stayed for awhile taking campy pictures together in front of the lake. If you know me at all, you know I love that shit. The third day ended with a trek down the mountain, through a comparably hot valley between the peaks, to our campsite for the night. By the end of this day, everyone was riding high on hiking endorphins and sunny weather. We tried not to think about the fact that we were done the next day. Although by now a shower would have been nice. Once again we stayed in a ‘beaut of a campground. We were all tired by now, but the sunset over the mountains reflecting on the nearby river helped wipe out feelings of exhaustion. We also lucked out by having the clouds clear enough to view hundreds of stars in the night sky not usually visible under city lights. Day four started with a surprise cake for Kate. It was her 50th birthday. I don’t know how the hell the chef Hernan made that cake at a campsite without a traditional oven or ingredients. But every day that starts with cake is sure to be a good day. I wish I took a picture of it, but I didn’t bring my phone in the breakfast tent that morning. This was a short day with a 3-4 hour trek at lower elevation trekking mostly downhill to meet our van in a nearby town. We ended with a beer before taking the van back to Huaraz. In Huaraz we had one last meal as a group near the tour company’s office, eating a giant plate of food and enjoying a few Pisco Sours on the way. Our trekking guide Cesar made the Pisco Sours and tried his hardest to get us all tipsy. He didn’t not succeed. Moving On The Poles had to leave Huaraz the next day. But Ryan, Liset, Alan, Kate and I were still in town the following day and met up for dinner. I caught a night bus to Lima that night, so I could catch a morning flight south to Arequipa. Alan and Kate had a morning flight the next day to Cusco. Ryan was heading to Lima and Liset was still working out her travel itinerary. I’m so glad I met all of them. I was sad that we had to part ways. If only we could all clear our travel schedules and align our globe-trotting plans, I’m sure my last few weeks in South America would be made all the better. But regardless, I’m lucky to have met them and shared a memorable trek with one of my favorite groups of travel companions yet.</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/happiness-is-hiking-the-santa-cruz-trail-in-peru/">Trekking Love: The Santa Cruz Trail in Peru</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote> <h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #000080;">“The great difference between voyages rests not with the ships, but with the people you meet on them.” – Amelia E. Barr</span></h4> </blockquote> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Huaraz</strong></span></h5> <p>After leaving Lima I took a night bus 8 hours north to the town of Huaraz. I arrived at 5:30 in the morning, exhausted, and ready to hike. Huaraz sits in central/northern Peru, is surrounded by the Andean mountains, and is more than 3,000 meters above sea level. It’s a few hours drive from Huarascán National Park. Within this park resides the peaks of the Cordillera Blanca range and Peru’s tallest mountain, Huarascán at 6,758 meters.</p> <figure id="attachment_511" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-511" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-511 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9756.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9756.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9756.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9756.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9756.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9756.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-511" class="wp-caption-text">Plaza de Armas in Huaraz</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_510" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-510" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-510 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9773.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9773.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9773.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9773.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9773.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9773.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-510" class="wp-caption-text">Coffee Shop Views of the Andes in Huaraz</figcaption></figure> <p>Visiting trekkers have no shortage of choices here. You can opt for anything from a single day hike to the crystal blue glacial Lake 69, to a full multi-day/week mountaineering trek to the top of Huarascán and other nearby peaks. I love trekking, but hate freezing my ass off, so I booked a middle of the road trekking option with a little bit of everything. Namely, the four day, three night Santa Cruz trek.</p> <p>The Santa Cruz route is just over 50 km and includes a walk through through Punta Union pass at 4,750 meters (that’s over 15,000 feet America!). While this pales in comparison to the highest mountains in the area, it’s still a good chance to experience hiking in elevation without going so high you need oxygen tanks and pick axes. It also includes an additional side hike to Lake Arhuaycocha at 4,450 meters. Most importantly of all, it’s a good amount of time to test if your personality is intriguing enough where people still like you after not showering for four days.</p> <p>After my experience sweating like an oldie surrounded with a gang of college kids hiking the Ciudad Perdida trail in Colombia, I started this trek excited but mildly nervous. I was ready to get back out in nature and out of cell service range. But I was silently praying that I wouldn’t be stuck trekking once again with super fit, trail racing youths. I’ve enjoyed the company of quite a few 20 somethings on this trip who are smart enough to explore the world before they get bogged down with real world responsibility. But where are all the grown-ups who have tried and rejected adult-ing in favor of quitting their jobs and blowing their life savings accounts?? I’d like to run into a few of them once in awhile.</p> <p>For the Santa Cruz trek, I hit the jackpot. I could not have asked for a better tour company, more beautiful scenery, or a more fun, social, hilarious, fascinating, grown ass group of people to hike with. I was sad to part ways with them at the end of the trek.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>The Group</strong></span></h5> <p>A quick introduction to the trekking group.</p> <p>First there were the Poles. Four of them. All of them from Poland. None of them currently living in Poland. The sisters, Jo Anna and Gosha have lived and worked in Irish and England, respectively, for the last several years. You can tell they’re close and the two of them take a few week trip abroad together every year. They’re also a trip themselves. Especially Jo Anna who is a spitfire of hilarity and attitude. Their friends, Magda and her husband Rafal also live in London but are in process of moving back to Poland. Such nice people. I told Magda and Rafal that I planned on traveling to Poland later in the year. We exchanged info and they told me to in touch when I visit. I would love to.</p> <p>The Poles also aren’t afraid of stopping every so often to take cheesy, campy pictures with a local donkey or mountainous background. I find this an incredibly endearing quality.</p> <p>Moving on. Alan and Kate are a British couple who have been together for over 20 years. They’re the kind of couple who you want to ask their secret for getting along so well for so long. They’re avid and experienced hikers and campers, but this was their first organized trek. Even when hiking through altitude, Kate and Alan were always cracking jokes or getting to know someone on the trail. I don’t know how they did this because I couldn’t breath. Kate has has the most interesting of career changes from Nuclear Physicist to Optometrist. She’s pretty much the sweetest, and Alan’s never failing British dad humor was a welcome addition. I learned all about the town of Wigan as well as a few new British slang terms thanks to them.</p> <p>The group also included two other solo travelers in addition to myself – Ryan and Liset. Ryan is from South Africa and is somewhere in his 30’s. He’s an engineer on a career travel break. He’s smart, friendly and a triathlete, but in an un-intimidating way. I don’t think I can mention Ryan without talking about his beard. After four days of trekking and not showering, I kept waiting for it to look anything but well manicured and sculpted but it never did. Some people just have good beard genes. He also has a wicked sense of humor made all the drier by a straight face hidden behind his facial mane.</p> <p>Liset was my tent mate. She’s Dutch and and is in her late 20’s. She works in tech/marketing, and was working for Twitter in Ireland before quitting her job. She’s been traveling for about a year, and is about to wrap up her travels to head back to the Netherlands to live with her long term boyfriend. We had several lengthy deep life conversations in our tent into the ‘late’ hours (i.e. well past 9pm). I like her a lot. She gave me a lot of ideas of new places to add to my future travel itinerary. I lucked out in the roommate lottery.</p> <figure id="attachment_518" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-518" style="width: 960px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-518 size-large" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0921.jpg?resize=960%2C720&ssl=1" alt="" width="960" height="720" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0921.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0921.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0921.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0921.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0921.jpg?w=2048&ssl=1 2048w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0921.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-518" class="wp-caption-text">Santa Cruz Trekking Group</figcaption></figure> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>The Hike</strong></span></h5> <p>I’m not going to bore you here with the minute by minute details of this trek. But I’ll give a quick and dirty outline mostly focused on visual aids (i.e. pictures). Suffice it to stay it was one of my favorite hikes ever and I won’t soon forget it.</p> <p>The first day consisted mostly driving to the national park, followed by a short 3 hour trek in the afternoon. It was an overcast day, and we got lightly rained on. But overall it was a good introduction to the trail itself, and it offered time for the group to get acquainted.</p> <figure id="attachment_515" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-515" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-515 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9268.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9268.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9268.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9268.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9268.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9268.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-515" class="wp-caption-text">Getting rained on</figcaption></figure> <p>The second day involved trekking through Punta Union and the highest elevation of the trek. It was grey and overcast, and I learned real quick this day what hiking in altitude feels like. Luckily I didn’t feel any of the symptoms associated with full on altitude sickness such as bad headaches and nausea. But boy, the air sure is thin at that height. The hike itself wasn’t that steep, but walking just 50 feet on an incline in high altitude can make you feel like your lungs are about to jump out of your chest. It’s no joke. I went back to my tried and true method of counting steps to keep me moving.</p> <figure id="attachment_524" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-524" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-524 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0923.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0923.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0923.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0923.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0923.jpg?w=1536&ssl=1 1536w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-524" class="wp-caption-text">Time to climb up</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_530" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-530" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-530 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0925.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0925.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0925.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0925.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0925.jpg?w=1536&ssl=1 1536w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-530" class="wp-caption-text">Liset clearly using the camera as an excuse to stop for a breathing break</figcaption></figure> <p>On this hike I also started singing myself a song/chant to keep my breathing steady and my focus away from thoughts of stopping.</p> <p>It goes something like this:</p> <p>“Put one foot in front of the OOoooo-ther.</p> <p>One foot in front of the OOoooo-ther.</p> <p>MOVE YOUR DAMN foot in front of the other.</p> <p>And that’s how your ass is getting to the top.”</p> <p>Yeah, I’m not winning a grammy any time soon. But I made it to the overpass just fine. And I wasn’t even last. Happily in the middle for most of the trek. So it works.</p> <p>Before I knew it we made it over the overpass in time to build a snowman and have lunch. The thin air and lack of oxygen helped provide a feeling of elation. But I don’t care, this was the highest elevation I’ve ever trekked and it was invigorating. The group agreed.</p> <figure id="attachment_522" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-522" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-522 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0934.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0934.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0934.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0934.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0934.jpg?w=1536&ssl=1 1536w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-522" class="wp-caption-text">Building tiny snowmen</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_534" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-534" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-534 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0933.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0933.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0933.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0933.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0933.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0933.jpg?w=2048&ssl=1 2048w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0933.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-534" class="wp-caption-text">Ryan and I are proud of the hike and the snowman in equal measure</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_533" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-533" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-533 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0940.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0940.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0940.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0940.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0940.jpg?w=1536&ssl=1 1536w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-533" class="wp-caption-text">Lunchtime atop a Mountain</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_537" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-537" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-537 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0941.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0941.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0941.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0941.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0941.jpg?w=1536&ssl=1 1536w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-537" class="wp-caption-text">Lunchtime views</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_528" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-528" style="width: 2048px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-528 size-full" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0936.jpg?resize=960%2C720&ssl=1" alt="" width="960" height="720" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0936.jpg?w=2048&ssl=1 2048w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0936.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0936.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0936.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0936.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_0936.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-528" class="wp-caption-text">Made it</figcaption></figure> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-565 alignright" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9540.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9540.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9540.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9540.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9540.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9540.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9540.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" />We spent the afternoon hiking down a few hundred meters to camp below the overpass. I don’t love sleeping in tents. I can’t get comfortable sleeping on the ground, and I need to splay my limbs out in my sleep more than a sleeping bag allows. But with views like this, who’s complaining! Mountain sunsets made the experience much easier to handle.</p> <p>Day three included a side trek to the glacial lake. We covered the longest distance on this day. Since the lake sits at 4,300 meters, it also included a short stretch of strenuous uphill hiking. This day was by far my favorite. The weather finally cleared and we got sunny blue skies for much of the day.</p> <p>I got sunburned. Not even mad about it. The scenery was amazing. You can see several tall mountain peaks during the trek, including the mountain used for the Paramount logo.</p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-547 aligncenter" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9548-2.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9548-2.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9548-2.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9548-2.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9548-2.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9548-2.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9548-2.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /></p> <p>By the time we reached the glacial lake, the group had gotten to know each other pretty well. We stayed for awhile taking campy pictures together in front of the lake. If you know me at all, you know I love that shit.</p> <figure id="attachment_548" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-548" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-548 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9608-2-e1528688929949-244x325.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9608-2-e1528688929949.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9608-2-e1528688929949.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9608-2-e1528688929949.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9608-2-e1528688929949.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9608-2-e1528688929949.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-548" class="wp-caption-text">Tentmate Pic with Liset</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_554" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-554" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-554 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9619-2-e1528688891287-244x325.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9619-2-e1528688891287.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9619-2-e1528688891287.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9619-2-e1528688891287.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9619-2-e1528688891287.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9619-2-e1528688891287.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-554" class="wp-caption-text">Glacial Lakes on Mountains</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_552" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-552" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-552 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9573-2.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9573-2.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9573-2.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9573-2.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9573-2.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9573-2.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9573-2.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-552" class="wp-caption-text">Killin It</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_559" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-559" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-559 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9593-2-e1529015834315-244x325.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9593-2-e1529015834315.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9593-2-e1529015834315.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9593-2-e1529015834315.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9593-2-e1529015834315.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9593-2-e1529015834315.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-559" class="wp-caption-text">Still Killin It</figcaption></figure> <p>The third day ended with a trek down the mountain, through a comparably hot valley between the peaks, to our campsite for the night. By the end of this day, everyone was riding high on hiking endorphins and sunny weather. We tried not to think about the fact that we were done the next day. Although by now a shower would have been nice.</p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-544 size-medium alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9639-2-e1528688264418-244x325.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9639-2-e1528688264418.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9639-2-e1528688264418.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9639-2-e1528688264418.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9639-2-e1528688264418.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9639-2-e1528688264418.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /></p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-569 size-medium alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9696.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9696.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9696.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9696.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9696.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9696.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /></p> <p>Once again we stayed in a ‘beaut of a campground. We were all tired by now, but the sunset over the mountains reflecting on the nearby river helped wipe out feelings of exhaustion. We also lucked out by having the clouds clear enough to view hundreds of stars in the night sky not usually visible under city lights.</p> <figure id="attachment_549" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-549" style="width: 768px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-549 size-large" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9705-2-e1528689149994-768x1024.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1" alt="" width="768" height="1024" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9705-2-e1528689149994.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9705-2-e1528689149994.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9705-2-e1528689149994.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9705-2-e1528689149994.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9705-2-e1528689149994.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-549" class="wp-caption-text">Camp on Day 3</figcaption></figure> <p>Day four sta<span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;">rted with a surprise cake for Kate. It was her 50</span><sup style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;">th</sup><span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;"> birthday. I don’t know how the hell the chef Hernan made that cake at a campsite without a traditional oven or ingredients. But every day that starts with cake is sure to be a good day. I wish I took a picture of it, but I didn’t bring my phone in the breakfast tent that morning.</span></p> <p>This was a short day with a 3-4 hour trek at lower elevation trekking mostly downhill to meet our van in a nearby town.</p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-555 size-medium alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9651-2-e1528689796119-244x325.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9651-2-e1528689796119.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9651-2-e1528689796119.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9651-2-e1528689796119.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9651-2-e1528689796119.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9651-2-e1528689796119.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /> <img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-570 alignleft" style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9726.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9726.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9726.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9726.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9726.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9726.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /></p> <p>We ended with a beer before taking the van back to Huaraz. In Huaraz we had one last meal as a group near the tour company’s office, eating a giant plate of food and enjoying a few Pisco Sours on the way. Our trekking guide Cesar made the Pisco Sours and tried his hardest to get us all tipsy. He didn’t <em>not</em> succeed.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Moving On</strong></span></h5> <p>The Poles had to leave Huaraz the next day. But Ryan, Liset, Alan, Kate and I were still in town the following day and met up for dinner. I caught a night bus to Lima that night, so I could catch a morning flight south to Arequipa. Alan and Kate had a morning flight the next day to Cusco. Ryan was heading to Lima and Liset was still working out her travel itinerary.</p> <figure id="attachment_575" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-575" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-575 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9831.jpg?resize=325%2C243&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="243" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9831.jpg?resize=325%2C243&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9831.jpg?resize=768%2C574&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9831.jpg?resize=1024%2C765&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9831.jpg?resize=1140%2C851&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9831.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-575" class="wp-caption-text">One Last Dinner in Huaraz</figcaption></figure> <p>I’m so glad I met all of them. I was sad that we had to part ways. If only we could all clear our travel schedules and align our globe-trotting plans, I’m sure my last few weeks in South America would be made all the better. But regardless, I’m lucky to have met them and shared a memorable trek with one of my favorite groups of travel companions yet.</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/happiness-is-hiking-the-santa-cruz-trail-in-peru/">Trekking Love: The Santa Cruz Trail in Peru</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/happiness-is-hiking-the-santa-cruz-trail-in-peru/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>3630</slash:comments> <post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">507</post-id> </item> <item> <title>Hitting the Capitals – Bogotá and Lima</title> <link>https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/hitting-the-capitals-bogota-and-lima/</link> <comments>https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/hitting-the-capitals-bogota-and-lima/#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Sun, 10 Jun 2018 05:38:31 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Bogota]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Colombia]]></category> <category><![CDATA[LIma]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Peru]]></category> <category><![CDATA[South America]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Lima]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://markingmymap.com/?p=434</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>“Our happiest moments as tourists always seem to come when we stumble upon one thing while in pursuit of something else.” – Lawrence Block Bogota When I arrived in Bogotá, I remember sitting in a cab driving from the airport thinking “I’m going to like it here much more than I thought.” I didn’t initially want to go to Bogotá. After Panama City, Medellin, and Cartagena I was about done with high rise buildings and crowded streets. Big cities wear me out. For those of you crying hypocrite – yes, I’m aware that I have always been an urbanite by residence. But traveling is different. My favorite globe-trotting moments usually involve fresh air and scenery. The other thing worth mentioning is that Bogota is a really big city. It’s geographically massive at over 600 square miles and is home to over 8 million people. On paper, this sounds positively exhausting. But my flight to Peru automatically routed through here. So I figured I might as well get off the plane and see what the fuss is all about. Stopping in Bogotá was one of my better travel decisions. True, Bogotá is mind bogglingly huge. Yes, there’s traffic and crowds and sketchy parts of town like any city. But it also has highly redeeming qualities. Bogotá is home to several universities, as well as trendy restaurants and quiet residential neighborhoods. It boasts amazing architecture, and has well-planned park space that’s full of families and running children on the weekends. It’s also surrounded by mountains and the city’s high elevation (over 8,600 ft above sea level) makes for the bluest of blue skies on a clear day. I’m such a sucker for that kind of thing. Friendly Tour Guides The few days I spent in Bogota were also aided by new friends. There’s nothing like a local tour guide to make you feel at home in a new place. And traveling can bring the most random, but welcome connections. Juan and I met in Medellin, where we both rented different rooms in the same Airbnb apartment. He picked me up at my hotel the morning of my second day in Bogota and spent an entire day showing me around. Since it was election day in Colombia, this was no easy task as a lot of the typical tourist sites and major streets were closed off for voting stations. Still, he managed to bring me out for a traditional Colombian breakfast, followed by a sunny(ish) afternoon of city exploration. Juan and I talk mostly in English. He gets confused by my Spanish, and I get frustrated when he talks too fast in Spanish for me to understand what he’s saying. But every few hours we have a half an hour of Spanish-only time, which provides a good opportunity for me to hone my basic conversational skills. Juan is a Venezuelan youth at 24, but is an an old soul for his young age. He also appreciates food almost as much as I do. So walking around town with him and stopping to try various culinary treats is a more than a pleasant way to spend a day. The following day in Bogota I met up with an even newer friend, Paola who I met through not one, but several random travel encounters. On a walking tour of Cartagena the prior week, my friend Erica and I met and shared a drink with a fellow DC resident Brittany. Brittany left Cartagena the following day, but we hung out long enough to realize that her and I would have a small overlap in our future travel plans in Bogotá. We exchanged numbers, and I met up with Brittany for dinner my first night in Bogotá. At dinner, she brought her friend Paola. Paola is a native Colombian, but befriended Brittany when attending American University in DC for a semester a few years ago. While I only got to hang out with Brittany for that one dinner before she left Bogotá, Paola was nice enough to offer to meet me over her lunch hour on Monday to show me the major sites downtown. Good luck if you can follow that, but that’s how I met Paola. Paola used to work at the Colombian Finance ministry and helped to calculate the country’s annual GDP. Now she works for the Cultural Ministry and is in the process of getting her masters. She’s in her mid 20’s, and is soft spoken, but intelligent, kind, and also generous with her time. She took a 2 ½ hour lunch break to show me around the art museums downtown, and point out the various government buildings to me. Before she headed back to work we also went out for a delicious lunch at a local spot I never would have found on my own. My only regret is that I forgot to take a picture with her. Touring on My Own My Bogotán (not sure that’s a word) friends have full time jobs aside from being my personal chauffeur, so I also explored Bogotá for a few days on my own. I spent a lot of time simply strolling the streets, which I enjoyed plenty. But another Bogotá highlight was my visit to Monserrate. Monserrate is a mountain on the eastern border of the city where there is also a church. It’s possible to climb stairs up to Monserrate, but tourists who do so should be prepared for a strenuous and long climb made more challenging by the city’s altitude. I was in a more relaxed mood when visiting, so I sprung $7 USD for a trip up the cable car to the top. The views don’t disappoint. I arrived here in the late afternoon, and extended my stay to sunset by sitting with a glass of wine at one of the two cafés at the top. Monserrate is a major tourist site for a reason. I can’t think of a better way to spend my last day in Bogotá. Lima This brings me to my next destination and a new country – Peru. Being as Peru is home to Machu Picchu, and a significant portion of the Andes, my primary plans here involve a few hundred kilometers of trekking. Similar to Bogota, I didn’t plan on spending much time in Lima but it’s a necessary stop to other places in Peru. And after Bogotá I was ready to be surprised. I’m sorry to say I did not have the same unexpected love for Lima as I did for Bogotá. And I blame this on Miraflores. Lima is geographically about half the size of Bogotá but houses even more people, just over 10 million. It’s one of the most populated cities in the world. And for whatever reason, just about every travel blog, guide, and internet search tells tourists to stay in Miraflores. Miraflores sits near the coastline, and is a very safe neighborhood. The coastline is also nice. But in my opinion, it is the most uninteresting part of the city. If I only visited Miraflores while in Lima, I would have left the city thinking it was a dull and sterile place that is all together skippable. It’s all high rise apartment buildings and shopping malls. Even more concerning to me was the complete lack of street food in this part of town. This is a stark contrast to every other city I’ve visited in Latin and South America and is a red flag of alarm if I ever knew one. Luckily after spending my first day here I escaped this barren drudgery and visited other parts of Lima. Eating My Way Through Lima One thing that Lima is known for that I will give major props to without question – food. Peru is the source of Ceviche, Peruvian chicken, pisco sours, and countless fusion options including the ever popular Chifas. Chifas are Chinese/Peruvian fusion restaurants and are easily found throughout the country. These qualities make Peru’s capital the culinary capital of South America. So what better way to experience Lima than through a food tour. In an effort to get the hell out of Miraflores, I booked a food tour in the neighborhood of Barranco. My guide books told me Barranco was the ‘artistic’ part of town. While popular with graffiti artists and hipsters, it can be a little sketchy at night and is not a recommended place to stay. In my personal experience, this is bull. Barranco is colorful, lively, and perfectly safe as long as you have an iota of common sense. The neighborhood sits a few miles down the Lima coastline from Miraflores. The graffiti art is eye catching, the ocean views breathtaking, and it’s got great tucked away pedestrian friendly streets with art galleries, as well as great Peruvian and fusion restaurants. If I ever went back to Lima, I would stay here. I would also highly recommend a food tour as a way of exploring Lima. There are several companies offering this kind of tour, in many different neighborhoods. My only regret in leaving Lima is that I didn’t get the chance to do more than one. In my tour of Barranco, I ate and drank everything from beef hearts, to purple corn pudding, to Coca Beer. I didn’t love it all but the flavors were interesting and I definitely ate it all (no shocker there). Heading Downtown For my last day in Lima I took a cab downtown. FINALLY I found where all the street vendors were hiding. As well as about 8 million of the 10 million people living in Lima. I wouldn’t recommend staying in downtown, but it’s definitely worth a visit. It showed me a cultural view of Lima beyond the high rise apartments and shopping centers of Miraflores. It has large open plazas, historical architecture, and grandiose churches. It’s a good place to wander in the morning or early afternoon. My eyes never stopped finding something interesting to look at. As the afternoon wears on, however, millions of people hit the streets of downtown Lima in a clusterf*ck of pedestrians and traffic. Initially, I wanted to walk to nearby Chinatown for dinner. But as the day wore on, I got so bombarded by the crowds that I couldn’t take it. I was inching down the street standing shoulder to shoulder with a bazillion locals. I needed to get the hell out of there before everyone got out of work and it got really crazy. That’s my trip to Lima, short and sweet. After a few days I caught a night bus to head up north to Huaraz, a city on the brim of the Cordillera Blanca range of the Andes. I didn’t see everything there is to see in Lima but I’d had enough big cities. Let the hiking begin.</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/hitting-the-capitals-bogota-and-lima/">Hitting the Capitals – Bogotá and Lima</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote> <h5><span style="color: #000080;">“Our happiest moments as tourists always seem to come when we stumble upon one thing while in pursuit of something else.” – <em>Lawrence Block</em></span></h5> </blockquote> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Bogota</strong></span></h5> <p>When I arrived in Bogotá, I remember sitting in a cab driving from the airport thinking “I’m going to like it here much more than I thought.”</p> <p>I didn’t initially want to go to Bogotá. After Panama City, Medellin, and Cartagena I was about done with high rise buildings and crowded streets. Big cities wear me out. For those of you crying hypocrite – yes, I’m aware that I have always been an urbanite by residence. But traveling is different. My favorite globe-trotting moments usually involve fresh air and scenery.</p> <p>The other thing worth mentioning is that Bogota is a <em>really</em> big city. It’s geographically massive at over 600 square miles and is home to over 8 million people. On paper, this sounds positively exhausting. But my flight to Peru automatically routed through here. So I figured I might as well get off the plane and see what the fuss is all about.</p> <p>Stopping in Bogotá was one of my better travel decisions.</p> <p>True, Bogotá is mind bogglingly huge. Yes, there’s traffic and crowds and sketchy parts of town like any city. But it also has highly redeeming qualities. Bogotá is home to several universities, as well as trendy restaurants and quiet residential neighborhoods. It boasts amazing architecture, and has well-planned park space that’s full of families and running children on the weekends. It’s also surrounded by mountains and the city’s high elevation (over 8,600 ft above sea level) makes for the bluest of blue skies on a clear day.</p> <p>I’m such a sucker for that kind of thing.</p> <figure id="attachment_435" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-435" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-435 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8717.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8717.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8717.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8717.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8717.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8717.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8717.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-435" class="wp-caption-text">Bogota from Above</figcaption></figure> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Friendly Tour Guides</strong></span></h5> <p>The few days I spent in Bogota were also aided by new friends. There’s nothing like a local tour guide to make you feel at home in a new place. And traveling can bring the most random, but welcome connections.</p> <p>Juan and I met in Medellin, where we both rented different rooms in the same Airbnb apartment. He picked me up at my hotel the morning of my second day in Bogota and spent an entire day showing me around. Since it was election day in Colombia, this was no easy task as a lot of the typical tourist sites and major streets were closed off for voting stations. Still, he managed to bring me out for a traditional Colombian breakfast, followed by a sunny(ish) afternoon of city exploration.</p> <figure id="attachment_448" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-448" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-448 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8596.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8596.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8596.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8596.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8596.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8596.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-448" class="wp-caption-text">Breakfast with Juan – Tamales and Hot Chocolate with Cheese. It was as weird as it sounds.</figcaption></figure> <p>Juan and I talk mostly in English. He gets confused by my Spanish, and I get frustrated when he talks too fast in Spanish for me to understand what he’s saying. But every few hours we have a half an hour of Spanish-only time, which provides a good opportunity for me to hone my basic conversational skills. Juan is a Venezuelan youth at 24, but is an an old soul for his young age. He also appreciates food almost as much as I do. So walking around town with him and stopping to try various culinary treats is a more than a pleasant way to spend a day.</p> <p>The following day in Bogota I met up with an even newer friend, Paola who I met through not one, but several random travel encounters. On a walking tour of Cartagena the prior week, my friend Erica and I met and shared a drink with a fellow DC resident Brittany. Brittany left Cartagena the following day, but we hung out long enough to realize that her and I would have a small overlap in our future travel plans in Bogotá. We exchanged numbers, and I met up with Brittany for dinner my first night in Bogotá. At dinner, she brought her friend Paola.</p> <p>Paola is a native Colombian, but befriended Brittany when attending American University in DC for a semester a few years ago. While I only got to hang out with Brittany for that one dinner before she left Bogotá, Paola was nice enough to offer to meet me over her lunch hour on Monday to show me the major sites downtown.</p> <p>Good luck if you can follow that, but that’s how I met Paola.</p> <figure id="attachment_449" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-449" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-449 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8630.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="Bogota" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8630.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8630.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8630.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8630.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8630.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8630.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-449" class="wp-caption-text">The National Capital Building in Bolivar Square</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_438" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-438" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-438 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8640.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8640.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8640.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8640.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8640.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8640.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8640.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-438" class="wp-caption-text">The Cathedral of Bogotá. So. Many. Birds.</figcaption></figure> <p>Paola used to work at the Colombian Finance ministry and helped to calculate the country’s annual GDP. Now she works for the Cultural Ministry and is in the process of getting her masters. She’s in her mid 20’s, and is soft spoken, but intelligent, kind, and also generous with her time. She took a 2 ½ hour lunch break to show me around the art museums downtown, and point out the various government buildings to me. Before she headed back to work we also went out for a delicious lunch at a local spot I never would have found on my own. My only regret is that I forgot to take a picture with her.</p> <figure id="attachment_442" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-442" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-442 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8655.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8655.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8655.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8655.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8655.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8655.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-442" class="wp-caption-text">Mona Lisa by Fernando Botero, a well known Colombian artist</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_443" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-443" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-443 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8658.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8658.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8658.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8658.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8658.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8658.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-443" class="wp-caption-text">I took a picture of Paola’s and my lunch, but forgot to take a picture with her. Food messes up my priorities sometimes</figcaption></figure> <h5></h5> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Touring on My Own</strong></span></h5> <p>My Bogotán (not sure that’s a word) friends have full time jobs aside from being my personal chauffeur, so I also explored Bogotá for a few days on my own. I spent a lot of time simply strolling the streets, which I enjoyed plenty. But another Bogotá highlight was my visit to Monserrate. Monserrate is a mountain on the eastern border of the city where there is also a church. It’s possible to climb stairs up to Monserrate, but tourists who do so should be prepared for a strenuous and long climb made more challenging by the city’s altitude. I was in a more relaxed mood when visiting, so I sprung $7 USD for a trip up the cable car to the top. The views don’t disappoint.</p> <figure id="attachment_459" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-459" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-459 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8825.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Bogota" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8825.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8825.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8825.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8825.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8825.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-459" class="wp-caption-text">Monserrate</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_455" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-455" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-455 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8911.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8911.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8911.jpg?resize=768%2C1022&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8911.jpg?resize=769%2C1024&ssl=1 769w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8911.jpg?resize=1140%2C1517&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8911.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-455" class="wp-caption-text">Here’s a cool selfie I took before I realized I put my shirt on backwards</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_456" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-456" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-456 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8773.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8773.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8773.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8773.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8773.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8773.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-456" class="wp-caption-text">City Views</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_469" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-469" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-469 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8800.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8800.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8800.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8800.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8800.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8800.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-469" class="wp-caption-text">Didn’t even have to photoshop that rainbow</figcaption></figure> <p>I arrived here in the late afternoon, and extended my stay to sunset by sitting with a glass of wine at one of the two cafés at the top. Monserrate is a major tourist site for a reason. I can’t think of a better way to spend my last day in Bogotá.</p> <figure id="attachment_460" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-460" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-460 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8995.jpg?resize=325%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8995.jpg?resize=325%2C325&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8995.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8995.jpg?resize=768%2C767&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8995.jpg?resize=1024%2C1024&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8995.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8995.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8995.jpg?w=1080&ssl=1 1080w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-460" class="wp-caption-text">cable car ride back down</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_462" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-462" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-462 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8849.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8849.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8849.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8849.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8849.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8849.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-462" class="wp-caption-text">WIne sunset views</figcaption></figure> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Lima</strong></span></h5> <p>This brings me to my next destination and a new country – Peru. Being as Peru is home to Machu Picchu, and a significant portion of the Andes, my primary plans here involve a few hundred kilometers of trekking. Similar to Bogota, I didn’t plan on spending much time in Lima but it’s a necessary stop to other places in Peru. And after Bogotá I was ready to be surprised.</p> <p>I’m sorry to say I did not have the same unexpected love for Lima as I did for Bogotá. And I blame this on Miraflores.</p> <p>Lima is geographically about half the size of Bogotá but houses even more people, just over 10 million. It’s one of the most populated cities in the world. And for whatever reason, just about every travel blog, guide, and internet search tells tourists to stay in Miraflores. Miraflores sits near the coastline, and is a very safe neighborhood. The coastline is also nice. But in my opinion, it is the most uninteresting part of the city.</p> <figure id="attachment_487" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-487" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-487 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9071.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9071.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9071.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9071.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9071.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9071.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9071.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-487" class="wp-caption-text">The Lima Coastline is about all that Miraflores has to Offer<span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span></figcaption></figure> <p>If I only visited Miraflores while in Lima, I would have left the city thinking it was a dull and sterile place that is all together skippable. It’s all high rise apartment buildings and shopping malls. Even more concerning to me was the complete lack of street food in this part of town. This is a stark contrast to every other city I’ve visited in Latin and South America and is a red flag of alarm if I ever knew one.</p> <p>Luckily after spending my first day here I escaped this barren drudgery and visited other parts of Lima.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Eating My Way Through Lima</strong></span></h5> <p>One thing that Lima is known for that I will give major props to without question – food. Peru is the source of Ceviche, Peruvian chicken, pisco sours, and countless fusion options including the ever popular Chifas. Chifas are Chinese/Peruvian fusion restaurants and are easily found throughout the country. These qualities make Peru’s capital the culinary capital of South America. So what better way to experience Lima than through a food tour.</p> <p>In an effort to get the hell out of Miraflores, I booked a food tour in the neighborhood of Barranco. My guide books told me Barranco was the ‘artistic’ part of town. While popular with graffiti artists and hipsters, it can be a little sketchy at night and is not a recommended place to stay. In my personal experience, this is bull. Barranco is colorful, lively, and perfectly safe as long as you have an iota of common sense. The neighborhood sits a few miles down the Lima coastline from Miraflores. The graffiti art is eye catching, the ocean views breathtaking, and it’s got great tucked away pedestrian friendly streets with art galleries, as well as great Peruvian and fusion restaurants. If I ever went back to Lima, I would stay here.</p> <figure id="attachment_490" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-490" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-490 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9080.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9080.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9080.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9080.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9080.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9080.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-490" class="wp-caption-text">The main square in Barranco</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_480" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-480" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-480 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9102.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9102.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9102.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9102.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9102.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9102.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-480" class="wp-caption-text">Graffiti Art in Barranco</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_475" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-475" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-475 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9101.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9101.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9101.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9101.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9101.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9101.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-475" class="wp-caption-text">The government commissions artists to paint certain areas</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_474" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-474" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-474 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9116.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9116.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9116.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9116.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9116.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9116.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-474" class="wp-caption-text">Street Art in Barranco Comes in All Kinds of Different Styles</figcaption></figure> <p>I would also highly recommend a food tour as a way of exploring Lima. There are several companies offering this kind of tour, in many different neighborhoods. My only regret in leaving Lima is that I didn’t get the chance to do more than one. In my tour of Barranco, I ate and drank everything from beef hearts, to purple corn pudding, to Coca Beer. I didn’t love it all but the flavors were interesting and I definitely ate it all (no shocker there).</p> <figure id="attachment_478" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-478" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-478 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9085.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9085.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9085.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9085.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9085.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9085.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-478" class="wp-caption-text">Causas – a stack of a sweet potato like starch with seafood on top</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_473" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-473" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-473 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9107.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9107.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9107.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9107.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9107.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9107.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-473" class="wp-caption-text">Skewers of Beef Hearts</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_472" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-472" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-472 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9125.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9125.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9125.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9125.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9125.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9125.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-472" class="wp-caption-text">Peruvian Spanish fusion – Cold Fish Served with Potatoes and Cheese</figcaption></figure> <h5 style="text-align: center;"></h5> <h5 style="text-align: center;"></h5> <h5 style="text-align: center;"></h5> <h5 style="text-align: center;"></h5> <h5></h5> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Heading Downtown</strong></span></h5> <p>For my last day in Lima I took a cab downtown. FINALLY I found where all the street vendors were hiding. As well as about 8 million of the 10 million people living in Lima. I wouldn’t recommend staying in downtown, but it’s definitely worth a visit. It showed me a cultural view of Lima beyond the high rise apartments and shopping centers of Miraflores. It has large open plazas, historical architecture, and grandiose churches. It’s a good place to wander in the morning or early afternoon. My eyes never stopped finding something interesting to look at.</p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="alignleft wp-image-494 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9148.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9148.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9148.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9148.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9148.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9148.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /> <img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="alignleft wp-image-493 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9167.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9167.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9167.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9167.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9167.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9167.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /> <img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="alignleft wp-image-492 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9172.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9172.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9172.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9172.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9172.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_9172.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /></p> <p>As the afternoon wears on, however, millions of people hit the streets of downtown Lima in a clusterf*ck of pedestrians and traffic. Initially, I wanted to walk to nearby Chinatown for dinner. But as the day wore on, I got so bombarded by the crowds that I couldn’t take it. I was inching down the street standing shoulder to shoulder with a bazillion locals. I needed to get the hell out of there before everyone got out of work and it got really crazy.</p> <p>That’s my trip to Lima, short and sweet. After a few days I caught a night bus to head up north to Huaraz, a city on the brim of the Cordillera Blanca range of the Andes. I didn’t see everything there is to see in Lima but I’d had enough big cities. Let the hiking begin.</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/hitting-the-capitals-bogota-and-lima/">Hitting the Capitals – Bogotá and Lima</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/hitting-the-capitals-bogota-and-lima/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>4030</slash:comments> <post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">434</post-id> </item> <item> <title>Meeting Friends in Cartagena</title> <link>https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/meeting-friends-in-cartagena/</link> <comments>https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/meeting-friends-in-cartagena/#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Sun, 03 Jun 2018 18:07:24 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Cartagena]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Colombia]]></category> <category><![CDATA[South America]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://markingmymap.com/?p=371</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p> “A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.” -Tim Cahill Cartagena: A Quick Overview I’ve spent a lot of time traveling in mountainous cites and jungle hikes. Obviously I’m impartial to these locales. It’s time to spice it up with something different: Cartagena. To give some background, Cartagena is an old port city on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. It has a historical center called the ‘walled city’, which sits right next to the water. Tourists walking around the walled city can take in colorful colonial buildings, cobblestone streets, and balconies overflowing with tropical flowers. For those visitors looking for beach time, the nearby Rosario islands are known for blue waters and white sandy beaches. These are the positives. And they’re big positives. But these attributes don’t go unnoticed in the traveling world, so Cartagena is also occupied by more tourists than any other Colombian city I’ve visited. And with tourists come jacked up prices and aggressive street vendors. Oh, and it’s hot and humid all the time. No place is perfect. The REAL highlight of my week, however, was not Cartagena itself but the arrival of a traveling friend. Erica and came all the way from DC to hang out in Cartagena for the week. I’ve made plenty of traveling acquaintances thus far, but was BEYOND EXCITED to have my awesomely gorgeous friend join me. It also helps that ella es mexicana and speaks fluent español. Here’s to being able to communicate to locals in complete sentences and ideas! Double win! Starting the Week Off Right As is expected when a friend finally joins after two months of traveling alone, Erica and I spent our first night bar hopping and drinking too much. We gave the local speciality drink a try (traveling tip: aguardiente is disgusting) and hunted down a rooftop bar with a view. We made it back to our hotel long before sunrise, and stayed safe. My family and some of her co-workers read this blog and that’s all you need to know. A week in a new city with an agreeable travel companion also brought new exploits. Some strange, some a little nerve-wracking, and others were just straight up tourist. All of it was a good time. Let’s start with the strange. Volcanos and Mud Baths If someone tells you the ‘must thing’ to do in Cartagena is to take a mud bath with a dozen strangers in an active volcano, think about it. Question their judgement as a friend and as a human being. And if you’re game for a crazy adventure, do it anyway. Firstly, I want to address this ‘active’ volcano concept. Sounds intimidating, right? You might be thinking, you must have to climb really high to get to the top. This seems like some high-end, exotic South American day spa shit. Well the volcano in Cartagena is none of these things. It’s 12 meters high or 40 feet tall. It takes less than 2 minutes to climb to the top via man made stairs. The experience isn’t so much a spa treatment as it’s a muddy mosh pit. To get in, Erica and I climbed down a 10 foot ladder in swimwear into a bottomless mud pool of strangers. Waiting for us in this dirty pond were a handful of Colombian men giving ‘massages’ for 5,000 pesos. These men don’t ask permission. They grab every tourist they can and start massaging before the tourist knows what touched them. After leaving the pit, the ‘masseuses’ (and I use this turn loosely) hunt down their victims and demand payment for the awkward, un-asked for body rub. Before I climbed down I distinctly told Erica I was NOT letting those mud men touch me. But as I reached the pit of goop I lost my sense of equilibrium and all reality, and I’ll be damned but I had to pay those dudes 5,000 pesos. They pushed Erica through like a tourist assembly line, but I got flipped, dipped, and massaged before I knew what was happening. Erica was very concerned about drowning in the pit, but this, it turns out, is scientifically impossible. The mud is so thick we couldn’t sink. But we didn’t exactly float either. We just bobbled, like one of those blow up punching bag faces that bounces right back after you smack it in the jaw. It’s disarming to lose your sense of balance this way. Erica and I both got kicked and grabbed by strangers desperate to find something to hold on to. An older man I had never met held my hand for a full minute while he got his own unrequested rub down. I don’t know if he was scared, trying to get a sense of balance, or thought I was his wife, but it felt important to support him in a time of need so I didn’t pull away. We had enough to fully appreciate the experience after about 5 minutes. Once out, we were directed to a nearby lagoon to wash off. Whereas I got the special treatment in the mud pit, by virtue of her Spanish speaking abilities, Erica got the special treatment in the lagoon. Once again there were a group of locals, women this time, holding plastic bowls waiting to help tourists wash off for a little extra cash. Erica and I politely declined, but Erica got a Spanish earful about how we need to let them help us as it’s how they support their families. It was all so weird. In retrospect, I’m glad I did this with Erica. With a friend, it was a memorably strange but hilarious experience. If I were by myself I would have wondered why I just paid some company to get mildly assaulted. Colombian Party Buses The other positive of this peculiar mud adventure was that Erica made friends with some British tourists who also thought mud bathing sounded fun. And our new friends invited us out on a Chiva bus that night. A Chiva is just a fancy name for a Colombian party bus. It’s a mix between an open air trolly and a school bus. To make it extra obnoxious, it’s decorated with bright colors and flashing lights. And just in case you STILL didn’t take notice, the buses will either blast loud music or will have their very own band on board. We had a band. There are a dozen or so of these Chivas that run every night in Cartagena, filled to the brim with tourists and locals. Erica and I took it on a Tuesday and it the buses were full. The bus drives around the city for an hour or so while street vendors sell party busers beer at stop lights. The Chiva makes make two stops – el Castillo (i.e. the Castle. We’ll cover this shortly) so people can go to the bathroom and get food from a line of overpriced food stands. And a club called Taboo. Why do all cities in all corners of the world have a trashy club called Taboo?? The one in Cartagena is exactly like you’d think. It’s best to come here after you’ve already had a few drinks. It was a trashy, touristy, weird day and I really enjoyed myself. Touristing Erica and I didn’t just sit in mud pits and drink booze all day, we also fit in our share of city sites. We did a free walking tour of Cartagena and visited the historical sites in the walled city. The walking tour wasn’t anything special, but we did meet a few new friends who were coincidentally from DC and shared a drink with them after the tour. During the tour, I also got to see Erica dodge away from several stray dogs and pigeons. Erica is a tried and true city girl. She’s not cool with random animal encounters. We also visited El Castillo and La Popa. El Castillo de San Felipe is a castle that sits within walking distance of the walled city. You’d think Erica and I would have noticed a giant castle on a hill when we were walking around but we didn’t. So we took a cab to get here when we could have walked there in 10 minutes. Live and learn. The castle occupies a huge site in the center of the city, has nice views, and you can walk inside and explore dark passageways. The dark and creepy passageways were not Erica’s favorite but I thought they were pretty cool. La Copa is a former convent atop a steep hillside that offers the best views of Cartagena. There’s a small museum to walk around once you get there which isn’t much to speak of, but the views are worth a stop. We also spent a good amount of time exploring the nearby artsy neighborhood of Getsemani. If I ever went back to Cartagena, I would stay here. It’s my favorite part of the city. It has some really amazing graffiti art, cute coffee shops and restaurants, and is close to, but slightly less touristy than the walled city. Erica and I enjoyed many a meal and cup of coffee here. By chance we also happened upon a free Zumba class in the main square that happens every Sunday night. It was fun just to watch. The energy was phenomenal! Birthday Plans and Traveling Reality Our week in Cartagena was (supposed) to culminate with my birthday that Friday. Yes, I aged over the course of this blog. Don’t feel bad about not sending me a gift. You still have time! Erica and I planned on going out for a nice meal, and maybe a cocktail. But as the story goes, the best laid plans…. Instead we opted to both get sick. Not the way I intended to kick off the year, but such is life. Getting the flu put a stop to our evening plans, but didn’t stop us from going to the beach. Given both of our conditions, we skipped a guided tour to the Rosario islands and decided to grab a cab to nearby Playa Blanca instead. This beach is technically part of the Rosario islands, but is still attached to the mainland and is accessible by cab. This brings me to the nerve-wracking part of the week. Maybe more nerve wracking for some of us (I think you can guess who) than others. The Cab /Uber Incident Here’s the thing about Colombian transportation. If you don’t want to mess with taking a bus, you take a cab. They’re cheap and easy to find. Cabs in Colombia, however, don’t run on a meter. Similar to many other countries, riders haggle the price. If you’re smart, you do this before you ever open the door. Prices for locals and tourists are quite different. I accepted a long time ago that I will always pay more. But as in any haggle, the game is best played when the tourist knows they are getting over charged, but can talk down the initial price down. And the driver still charges double or triple what they would a local. Everyone is happy. The first cab driver we talked to did not understand this game. He thought if he started with an outrageously high price, and argued it, we would just pay. In the days of Uber, this was not a game he was going to win. Here’s the thing about Uber in Colombia. It’s not exactly legal. It’s also not exactly illegal. A local described it to me as in a ‘grey area’. Uber is widely used and is cheap. But when taking it, riders sit in the front so that it’s not obvious it’s an Uber. When taking an Uber to the Colombian airport, for example, you say goodbye to the driver like an old friend. This is to make sure the police don’t stop him. I knew this Uber situation beforehand. But Erica and I made the silly mistake of scoffing at the cab drivers high price by saying...</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/meeting-friends-in-cartagena/">Meeting Friends in Cartagena</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote> <h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #000080;"> “A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.” -Tim Cahill</span></h4> </blockquote> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Cartagena: A Quick Overview</strong></span></h5> <p>I’ve spent a lot of time traveling in mountainous cites and jungle hikes. Obviously I’m impartial to these locales. It’s time to spice it up with something different: Cartagena.</p> <p>To give some background, Cartagena is an old port city on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. It has a historical center called the ‘walled city’, which sits right next to the water. Tourists walking around the walled city can take in colorful colonial buildings, cobblestone streets, and balconies overflowing with tropical flowers. For those visitors looking for beach time, the nearby Rosario islands are known for blue waters and white sandy beaches.</p> <figure id="attachment_380" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-380" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-380 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8246.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8246.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8246.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8246.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8246.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8246.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-380" class="wp-caption-text">View from the wall to the water and nearby Bocagrande (i.e. the Miami of Cartagena)</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_385" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-385" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-385 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8239.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="cartagena" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8239.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8239.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8239.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8239.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8239.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-385" class="wp-caption-text">One of many colonial buildings inside the walled city</figcaption></figure> <p>These are the positives. And they’re big positives. But these attributes don’t go unnoticed in the traveling world, so Cartagena is also occupied by more tourists than any other Colombian city I’ve visited. And with tourists come jacked up prices and aggressive street vendors. Oh, and it’s hot and humid all the time.</p> <p>No place is perfect.</p> <p>The REAL highlight of my week, however, was not Cartagena itself but the arrival of a traveling friend. Erica and came all the way from DC to hang out in Cartagena for the week. I’ve made plenty of traveling acquaintances thus far, but was BEYOND EXCITED to have my awesomely gorgeous friend join me. It also helps that ella es mexicana and speaks fluent español. Here’s to being able to communicate to locals in complete sentences and ideas! Double win!</p> <figure id="attachment_376" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-376" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-376 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8319.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Cartagena" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8319.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8319.jpg?resize=768%2C1022&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8319.jpg?resize=769%2C1024&ssl=1 769w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8319.jpg?resize=1140%2C1517&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8319.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-376" class="wp-caption-text">Cartagena Selfies</figcaption></figure> <h5><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Starting the Week Off Right</strong></span></h5> <p>As is expected when a friend finally joins after two months of traveling alone, Erica and I spent our first night bar hopping and drinking too much. We gave the local speciality drink a try (traveling tip: aguardiente is disgusting) and hunted down a rooftop bar with a view. We made it back to our hotel long before sunrise, and stayed safe. My family and some of her co-workers read this blog and that’s all you need to know.</p> <figure id="attachment_375" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-375" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-375 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8317.jpg?resize=325%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Cartagena" width="325" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8317.jpg?resize=325%2C325&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8317.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8317.jpg?resize=768%2C768&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8317.jpg?resize=1024%2C1024&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8317.jpg?resize=1140%2C1140&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8317.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8317.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8317.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-375" class="wp-caption-text">Rooftop View</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_377" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-377" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-377 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8314.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="Cartagena" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8314.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8314.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8314.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8314.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8314.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8314.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-377" class="wp-caption-text">Aguardiente is alcoholic flaming licorice and it will burn out your esophagus</figcaption></figure> <div class="mceTemp"><span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;">A week in a new city with an agreeable travel companion also brought new exploits. Some strange, some a little nerve-wracking, and others were just straight up tourist. All of it was a good time.</span></div> <p>Let’s start with the strange.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Volcanos and Mud Baths </strong></span></h5> <p>If someone tells you the ‘must thing’ to do in Cartagena is to take a mud bath with a dozen strangers in an active volcano, think about it. Question their judgement as a friend and as a human being. And if you’re game for a crazy adventure, do it anyway.</p> <p>Firstly, I want to address this ‘active’ volcano concept. Sounds intimidating, right? You might be thinking, you must have to climb really high to get to the top. This seems like some high-end, exotic South American day spa shit.</p> <p>Well the volcano in Cartagena is none of these things. It’s 12 meters high or 40 feet tall. It takes less than 2 minutes to climb to the top via man made stairs. The experience isn’t so much a spa treatment as it’s a muddy mosh pit. To get in, Erica and I climbed down a 10 foot ladder in swimwear into a bottomless mud pool of strangers. Waiting for us in this dirty pond were a handful of Colombian men giving ‘massages’ for 5,000 pesos. These men don’t ask permission. They grab every tourist they can and start massaging before the tourist knows what touched them. After leaving the pit, the ‘masseuses’ (and I use this turn loosely) hunt down their victims and demand payment for the awkward, un-asked for body rub.</p> <figure id="attachment_379" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-379" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-379 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/508e0d27-1fe7-4d9a-b998-0ab131cfea57.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="mud bath" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/508e0d27-1fe7-4d9a-b998-0ab131cfea57.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/508e0d27-1fe7-4d9a-b998-0ab131cfea57.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/508e0d27-1fe7-4d9a-b998-0ab131cfea57.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/508e0d27-1fe7-4d9a-b998-0ab131cfea57.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/508e0d27-1fe7-4d9a-b998-0ab131cfea57.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-379" class="wp-caption-text">Check out that chick behind me getting her moneys worth</figcaption></figure> <p>Before I climbed down I distinctly told Erica I was NOT letting those mud men touch me. But as I reached the pit of goop I lost my sense of equilibrium and all reality, and I’ll be <em>damned</em> but I had to pay those dudes 5,000 pesos. They pushed Erica through like a tourist assembly line, but I got flipped, dipped, and massaged before I knew what was happening.</p> <p>Erica was very concerned about drowning in the pit, but this, it turns out, is scientifically impossible. The mud is so thick we couldn’t sink. But we didn’t exactly float either. We just bobbled, like one of those blow up punching bag faces that bounces right back after you smack it in the jaw.</p> <p>It’s disarming to lose your sense of balance this way. Erica and I both got kicked and grabbed by strangers desperate to find something to hold on to. An older man I had never met held my hand for a full minute while he got his own unrequested rub down. I don’t know if he was scared, trying to get a sense of balance, or thought I was his wife, but it felt important to support him in a time of need so I didn’t pull away.</p> <figure id="attachment_402" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-402" style="width: 304px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-402 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/0a75b438-54d3-4a00-b39d-10ce904779de.jpg?resize=304%2C325&ssl=1" alt="mud bath" width="304" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/0a75b438-54d3-4a00-b39d-10ce904779de.jpg?resize=304%2C325&ssl=1 304w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/0a75b438-54d3-4a00-b39d-10ce904779de.jpg?resize=768%2C820&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/0a75b438-54d3-4a00-b39d-10ce904779de.jpg?resize=959%2C1024&ssl=1 959w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/0a75b438-54d3-4a00-b39d-10ce904779de.jpg?resize=1140%2C1218&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/0a75b438-54d3-4a00-b39d-10ce904779de.jpg?w=1292&ssl=1 1292w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 304px) 100vw, 304px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-402" class="wp-caption-text">The After</figcaption></figure> <p>We had enough to fully appreciate the experience after about 5 minutes. Once out, we were directed to a nearby lagoon to wash off. Whereas I got the special treatment in the mud pit, by virtue of her Spanish speaking abilities, Erica got the special treatment in the lagoon. Once again there were a group of locals, women this time, holding plastic bowls waiting to help tourists wash off for a little extra cash. Erica and I politely declined, but Erica got a Spanish earful about how we need to let them help us as it’s how they support their families.</p> <p>It was all so weird.</p> <p>In retrospect, I’m glad I did this with Erica. With a friend, it was a memorably strange but hilarious experience. If I were by myself I would have wondered why I just paid some company to get mildly assaulted.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Colombian Party Buses</strong></span></h5> <p>The other positive of this peculiar mud adventure was that Erica made friends with some British tourists who also thought mud bathing sounded fun. And our new friends invited us out on a Chiva bus that night.</p> <figure id="attachment_403" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-403" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-403 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/chiva-tour-medellin.jpg?resize=325%2C190&ssl=1" alt="cartagena" width="325" height="190" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/chiva-tour-medellin.jpg?resize=325%2C190&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/chiva-tour-medellin.jpg?resize=768%2C449&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/chiva-tour-medellin.jpg?w=850&ssl=1 850w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-403" class="wp-caption-text">Confession: I forgot to take a picture of the actual bus, so this is from google. It’s still an accurate photo</figcaption></figure> <p>A Chiva is just a fancy name for a Colombian party bus. It’s a mix between an open air trolly and a school bus. To make it extra obnoxious, it’s decorated with bright colors and flashing lights. And just in case you STILL didn’t take notice, the buses will either blast loud music or will have their very own band on board. We had a band.</p> <div style="width: 720px;" class="wp-video"><!--[if lt IE 9]><script>document.createElement('video');</script><![endif]--> <video class="wp-video-shortcode" id="video-371-1" width="720" height="1280" preload="metadata" controls="controls"><source type="video/mp4" src="https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8463.m4v?_=1" /><a href="https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8463.m4v">https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8463.m4v</a></video></div> <figure id="attachment_414" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-414" style="width: 238px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-414 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/021b5fd8-34cf-4521-bdc3-b5f4a6204eb2-1.jpg?resize=238%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Cartagena" width="238" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/021b5fd8-34cf-4521-bdc3-b5f4a6204eb2-1.jpg?resize=238%2C325&ssl=1 238w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/021b5fd8-34cf-4521-bdc3-b5f4a6204eb2-1.jpg?resize=768%2C1048&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/021b5fd8-34cf-4521-bdc3-b5f4a6204eb2-1.jpg?resize=750%2C1024&ssl=1 750w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/021b5fd8-34cf-4521-bdc3-b5f4a6204eb2-1.jpg?resize=1140%2C1556&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/021b5fd8-34cf-4521-bdc3-b5f4a6204eb2-1.jpg?w=1172&ssl=1 1172w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 238px) 100vw, 238px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-414" class="wp-caption-text">Making British Friends in Cartagena</figcaption></figure> <p>There are a dozen or so of these Chivas that run every night in Cartagena, filled to the brim with tourists and locals. Erica and I took it on a Tuesday and it the buses were full. The bus drives around the city for an hour or so while street vendors sell party busers beer at stop lights. The Chiva makes make two stops – el Castillo (i.e. the Castle. We’ll cover this shortly) so people can go to the bathroom and get food from a line of overpriced food stands. And a club called Taboo. Why do <em>all</em> cities in <em>all</em> corners of the world have a trashy club called Taboo?? The one in Cartagena is exactly like you’d think. It’s best to come here after you’ve already had a few drinks.</p> <p>It was a trashy, touristy, weird day and I really enjoyed myself.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Touristing</strong></span></h5> <p>Erica and I didn’t just sit in mud pits and drink booze all day, we also fit in our share of city sites. We did a free walking tour of Cartagena and visited the historical sites in the walled city. The walking tour wasn’t anything special, but we did meet a few new friends who were coincidentally from DC and shared a drink with them after the tour. During the tour, I also got to see Erica dodge away from several stray dogs and pigeons. Erica is a tried and true city girl. She’s<span style="text-decoration: underline;"> not cool</span> with random animal encounters.</p> <p>We also visited El Castillo and La Popa. El Castillo de San Felipe is a castle that sits within walking distance of the walled city. You’d think Erica and I would have noticed a giant castle on a hill when we were walking around but we didn’t. So we took a cab to get here when we could have walked there in 10 minutes. Live and learn. The castle occupies a huge site in the center of the city, has nice views, and you can walk inside and explore dark passageways. The dark and creepy passageways were not Erica’s favorite but I thought they were pretty cool.</p> <figure id="attachment_406" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-406" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-406 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8374.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8374.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8374.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8374.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8374.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8374.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8374.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-406" class="wp-caption-text">El Castillo de San Felipe</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_405" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-405" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-405 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8380-1.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8380-1.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8380-1.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8380-1.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8380-1.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8380-1.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-405" class="wp-caption-text">Cannon Shots</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_404" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-404" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-404 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8391.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8391.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8391.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8391.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8391.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8391.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-404" class="wp-caption-text">Inner Castle Passageways</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_386" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-386" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-386 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8403.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8403.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8403.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8403.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8403.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8403.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-386" class="wp-caption-text">Viva Colombia</figcaption></figure> <p>La Copa is a former convent atop a steep hillside that offers the best views of Cartagena. There’s a small museum to walk around once you get there which isn’t much to speak of, but the views are worth a stop.</p> <figure id="attachment_398" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-398" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-398 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8352.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8352.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8352.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8352.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8352.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8352.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8352.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-398" class="wp-caption-text">View of Cartagena from La Copa</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_392" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-392" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-392 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8370.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="Cartagena" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8370.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8370.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8370.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8370.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8370.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8370.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-392" class="wp-caption-text">Finally, a friend to take pictures so I don’t have to take a selfie</figcaption></figure> <p>We also spent a good amount of time exploring the nearby artsy neighborhood of Getsemani. If I ever went back to Cartagena, I would stay here. It’s my favorite part of the city. It has some really amazing graffiti art, cute coffee shops and restaurants, and is close to, but slightly less touristy than the walled city. Erica and I enjoyed many a meal and cup of coffee here. By chance we also happened upon a free Zumba class in the main square that happens every Sunday night. It was fun just to watch. The energy was phenomenal!</p> <figure id="attachment_407" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-407" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-407 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8504.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Cartagena" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8504.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8504.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8504.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8504.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8504.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-407" class="wp-caption-text">Getsemani Street Art</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_409" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-409" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-409 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8502.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Cartagena" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8502.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8502.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8502.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8502.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8502.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-409" class="wp-caption-text">Cafe de Mural: A highly recommended stop in Getsemani</figcaption></figure> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <div style="width: 720px;" class="wp-video"><video class="wp-video-shortcode" id="video-371-2" width="720" height="1280" preload="metadata" controls="controls"><source type="video/mp4" src="https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8415.m4v?_=2" /><a href="https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8415.m4v">https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8415.m4v</a></video></div> <h5></h5> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Birthday Plans and Traveling Reality</strong></span></h5> <p>Our week in Cartagena was (supposed) to culminate with my birthday that Friday. Yes, I aged over the course of this blog. Don’t feel bad about not sending me a gift. You still have time! Erica and I planned on going out for a nice meal, and maybe a cocktail. But as the story goes, the best laid plans….</p> <p>Instead we opted to both get sick. Not the way I intended to kick off the year, but such is life.</p> <p>Getting the flu put a stop to our evening plans, but didn’t stop us from going to the beach. Given both of our conditions, we skipped a guided tour to the Rosario islands and decided to grab a cab to nearby Playa Blanca instead. This beach is technically part of the Rosario islands, but is still attached to the mainland and is accessible by cab.</p> <p>This brings me to the nerve-wracking part of the week. Maybe more nerve wracking for some of us (I think you can guess who) than others.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>The Cab /Uber Incident</strong></span></h5> <p>Here’s the thing about Colombian transportation. If you don’t want to mess with taking a bus, you take a cab. They’re cheap and easy to find. Cabs in Colombia, however, don’t run on a meter. Similar to many other countries, riders haggle the price. If you’re smart, you do this before you ever open the door. Prices for locals and tourists are quite different. I accepted a long time ago that I will always pay more. But as in any haggle, the game is best played when the tourist knows they are getting over charged, but can talk down the initial price down. And the driver still charges double or triple what they would a local. Everyone is happy.</p> <p>The first cab driver we talked to did not understand this game. He thought if he started with an outrageously high price, and argued it, we would just pay. In the days of Uber, this was not a game he was going to win.</p> <p>Here’s the thing about Uber in Colombia. It’s not exactly legal. It’s also not exactly illegal. A local described it to me as in a ‘grey area’. Uber is widely used and is cheap. But when taking it, riders sit in the front so that it’s not obvious it’s an Uber. When taking an Uber to the Colombian airport, for example, you say goodbye to the driver like an old friend. This is to make sure the police don’t stop him.</p> <p>I knew this Uber situation beforehand. But Erica and I made the silly mistake of scoffing at the cab drivers high price by saying we would Uber. I should have known better. By the time our car arrived, the cabbie called the local transit authority (note: NOT the actual police) who were waiting to pull us over. A long lecture ensued. Basically the transit cop was aiming to get a bribe. We felt horrible, but there wasn’t anything we could do. I left some money in the console, and Erica and I ended up grabbing another ride.</p> <p>Once safely in a new but slightly more expensive cab, I felt much calmer. However, I realized this feeling was not universally shared when I looked over midway through the ride to see Erica following our trip on google maps. After that Uber incident, Erica was going to make damn sure that cab driver brought us exactly where he agreed. If we turned to the East, Erica was on high alert as the beach was CLEARLY WEST.</p> <p>Her anxiety wasn’t helped by the aggressive restaurant vendors that jumped in front and hung onto the cab as we got closer to the beach. Even in my lax travel style (aided by flu exhaustion), this got me a little riled. The driver told Erica this was normal, but he could see how this looked like they were trying to rob you. No, this did not help calm those nerves AT ALL.</p> <p><em>Side note to/about Mom: </em> My mom called me that morning to wish me a happy birthday. Erica and my mom have never met, but after saying hello, my mom told Erica that it was her job to keep me safe. Her exact words were ‘I hope she’s good at DEFENSE’. Mom, you will be happy to know that Erica is a vigilance of travel safety. If you two ever meet, you would really like her.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Playa Blanca</strong></span></h5> <p>We made it to the beach just fine and ordered a giant cocktail in an obnoxiously large coconut to mark the occasion. With my flu, I personally didn’t have much of a sense of taste, but it was a nice mini celebration. Also Erica needed it to calm her nerves. Eventually we were both able to relax enough to take in the sun for a few hours. It was lovely.</p> <figure id="attachment_413" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-413" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-413 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8524.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8524.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8524.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8524.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8524.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8524.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-413" class="wp-caption-text">Beachfront Cocktails</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_411" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-411" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-411 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8534.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Playa Blanca" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8534.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8534.jpg?resize=768%2C1022&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8534.jpg?resize=769%2C1024&ssl=1 769w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8534.jpg?resize=1140%2C1517&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8534.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-411" class="wp-caption-text">And Maybe a Beer Too</figcaption></figure> <p>After the morning’s incident, we opted for the ferry back to the city after tiring of the beach. I’m glad we tried a change in transportation. It offered a different view of the coastline and dropped us off within walking distance of the walled city and our hotel. Why didn’t we do that in the first place??</p> <figure id="attachment_408" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-408" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-408 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8553.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8553.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8553.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8553.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8553.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8553.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8553.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-408" class="wp-caption-text">A much calmer ferry ride back</figcaption></figure> <p>I’d love to say that I rallied that night, and we still went out to celebrate with a nice dinner and a few fancy cocktails. But this birthday put me well into my 30’s, and shit did not go down like that. We hung out on our hotel’s rooftop for awhile, but the idea of drinking more just made me feel nauseous. We went to sleep early.</p> <p>Welcome to getting older.</p> <h5><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Traveling with Friends</strong></span></h5> <p>And thus ends our week in Cartagena. I learned just as much about Colombia as I did about my good traveling friend.</p> <p>I learned that Erica enjoys a cocktail at the end of the day, and really enjoys if that cocktail is on a rooftop. Prior to this trip, I knew she was afraid of animals. But I got to see just how deftly skilled she is at spotting and running away from many a stray dog, wandering cat, and pigeon. In addition to animals, she’s also afraid of drowning, castle passageways, dimly lit kitchens, and empty hotels rooms. It’s actually quite a long list.</p> <p>I also learned she says she’s never afraid to ask someone for assistance or directions. She’s great at making new friends in multiple languages. Without fail she <em><span style="text-decoration: underline;">always</span></em> takes notice and the time to appreciate when people go out of their way to be helpful.</p> <p>She learned I spend most of my day thinking about what I’m going to eat next. Like, a LOT of my day. I can’t tell you how many times I asked – ‘how are you NOT HUNGRY??’. Aside from being hungry, the worst feeling in the world to me is having dirty feet. I hate it. I hate walking through dusty roads with sandals.</p> <p>I’m also full of restless energy. If I sit still for too long I do a short work out app on my phone. Or I eat something. But on a positive note, I’m also social, fun to hang out with, and come travel ready with a handful of places I want to see.</p> <p>Since I have a blog and she doesn’t, I get to poke fun at Erica’s travel anxieties for everyone to read. But in reality she’s an easygoing travel companion and helped me relax. I got her out of her comfort zone a few times to try something new. Win win.</p> <p>I’m glad I got to experience Cartagena with her. She set a high standard for whoever comes next. And if that volcano adventure didn’t convince someone to fly out and join me, I don’t know what will.</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/meeting-friends-in-cartagena/">Meeting Friends in Cartagena</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://markingmymap.com/2018/06/meeting-friends-in-cartagena/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>5259</slash:comments> <enclosure url="https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8463.m4v" length="11666254" type="video/mp4" /> <enclosure url="https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/IMG_8415.m4v" length="14736349" type="video/mp4" /> <post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">371</post-id> </item> <item> <title>Minca in a Minute</title> <link>https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/minca-in-a-minute/</link> <comments>https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/minca-in-a-minute/#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Thu, 24 May 2018 05:32:08 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Colombia]]></category> <category><![CDATA[MInca]]></category> <category><![CDATA[South America]]></category> <category><![CDATA[cacao]]></category> <category><![CDATA[hiking]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Minca]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://markingmymap.com/?p=348</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>“A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving.” – Lao Tzu Why Minca After finishing the Ciudad Perdida trail and leaving Tayrona Park, I did a short stop over in Minca before heading to Cartagena. Minca is a small town in the mountains just above Santa Marta. The city was not in my original itinerary but I added the stop over on the recommendation of a German woman I met while in Guatape near Medellin. She told me I had to go. She visited it for a night and wishes she had stayed longer. My guide book didn’t say much about Minca, except for a half page summary saying it was becoming a popular destination for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts. It’s known for bird watching. I had a few extra days to kill before meeting a friend in Cartagena. So why not. My first sign that Minca would be adventure to enjoy was when I got off the bus just outside of Santa Marta. There isn’t a bus directly from Tayrona to Minca, so I had to first take the bus to Santa Marta where I could catch another ride to Minca. In this case, I got to ride a moto taxi for the first time. That’s a motorcycle taxi in case you didn’t put that together. They’re everywhere in Santa Marta, and cheaper than a regular taxi. You hop on the back, if you’re lucky they give you a helmet, and off you go. The ‘small’ problem here was that I had my giant backpack with me. This isn’t a school sized bookbag. Its a multi-day, full body backpack with a waist harness and all my clothes for four months of traveling. ‘Not a problem’. ‘Don’t worry’. The motorcycle guy kept telling me. At first I didn’t see how this was physically possible but he proved me wrong. That dude flung my giant backpack in front of him and rested it between the handlebars on his motorbike. I hopped on the back, put on a helmet, and away we went on the 30 minute ride up winding mountain roads to Minca. I don’t have a picture for obvious safety reasons. But that shit would not be legal in the US. Seeing What Minca Has to Offer I checked into my hostel and could already tell I was going to enjoy my stay. The main part of town is small – just a few main roads intersecting over a small river. Every bar, restaurant, grocery store, and taxi stand is within about two blocks of this intersection. The owner of my hostel gave me a map and a run down of all the good hikes and places to eat. You don’t get this kind of personal attention when traveling in large cities like Medellin or Cartagena. But you get it in a three room hostel Minca. On my first afternoon in Minca, I hiked through town and partially up a mountain to tour a local coffee and cacao plantation. The hike involved some steep sections, but by now I had a few days of recovery time since hiking Ciudad Perdida. It also helped that the views were beautiful and I was in no rush to get there. I enjoyed a slow and leisurely stroll up that mountain trail. I had toured another coffee plantation when in Panama, so I opted for only the Cacao tour in Minca. On the tour, I was joined by a group of outgoing New Zealand biologists. The tour guide was a younger guy named Levi, who I’m confident was stoned during entire tour. This hypothesis was verified when we all saw him smoking a joint while driving his motorcycle heading back down the mountain later that afternoon. Still, given Levi’s state of mind he was surprisingly peppy and full of goofy energy. As a result, the tour was a blast yet still unexpectedly educational. Levi talked about the Cacao planting process, and showed us what chocolate looks like from fresh seed, to roasting, to raw product. During the tour we got to try freshly dried cacao beans, which Levi then ground up and put into hot water to make hot chocolate. The tour ends with Levi slathering on a mix of ground chocolate and coffee on everyone’s faces, telling us it was great for our skin. Sound a little strange and gimmicky? Maybe. But Levi put the grainy brown mixture on his own face too without hesitation. When in Rome. Following the tour, the New Zealanders and I walked back down the mountain together back to town. It was early evening by then and the sun was setting, making for some ‘real beautiful sunset views. We all grabbed dinner together at a local backpacker hangout before parting ways. As first days in a new town go, I could not have asked for much more. I spent the second day hiking to Pozo Azul, a set of small waterfalls and a swimming hole. While I found the site to be on the underwhelming side, I did enjoy the hike. My feet were still mildly sore and recovering from the trauma of Ciudad Perdida. But it was good to know that I could walk for several hours and still manage to enjoy it. I’m sure it helped that I wasn’t trying to catch up with speed walking European youths on the way. Plus this adorable stray dog followed me for a good three hours of hiking so I had good company. Now Relax and Breathe I only stayed two nights in Minca. On my last morning before catching the bus to Cartagena I took an early morning Prayama yoga class at a local studio. A Russian Expat and his wife run the school. They visited Minca five years ago, loved it, and moved there to start a Yoga school and retreat. I was the only one in class, which was held outdoors with full mountain views. We warmed up for the first 20 minutes with a few sun salutations, but spent most of the class on breathing exercises. Alex and walked me through the basics of Prayama breathing and after the previous week of sweat, (almost) tears, and physical strain I could feel myself finally relaxing. I started my last day in Minca feeling equally energized and calm. After the strain of Ciudad Perdida the prior week, it was a welcome sensation. And that’s Minca. Short and sweet. If you ever find yourself on the northern coast of Colombia I highly recommend making a stop. The people are nice, the mountains are beautiful, and there are unexpectedly good food options. It’s possible to see everything in a few short days, but you won’t be bored when you’re there. I’m glad I went. Now on to Cartagena.</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/minca-in-a-minute/">Minca in a Minute</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote> <h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #000080;">“A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving.” – Lao Tzu</span></h4> </blockquote> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Why Minca</strong></span></h5> <p>After finishing the Ciudad Perdida trail and leaving Tayrona Park, I did a short stop over in Minca before heading to Cartagena. Minca is a small town in the mountains just above Santa Marta. The city was not in my original itinerary but I added the stop over on the recommendation of a German woman I met while in Guatape near Medellin. She told me I <em>had </em>to go. She visited it for a night and wishes she had stayed longer. My guide book didn’t say much about Minca, except for a half page summary saying it was becoming a popular destination for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts. It’s known for bird watching. I had a few extra days to kill before meeting a friend in Cartagena. So why not.</p> <p>My first sign that Minca would be adventure to enjoy was when I got off the bus just outside of Santa Marta. There isn’t a bus directly from Tayrona to Minca, so I had to first take the bus to Santa Marta where I could catch another ride to Minca. In this case, I got to ride a moto taxi for the first time. That’s a motorcycle taxi in case you didn’t put that together. They’re everywhere in Santa Marta, and cheaper than a regular taxi. You hop on the back, if you’re lucky they give you a helmet, and off you go.</p> <p>The ‘small’ problem here was that I had my giant backpack with me. This isn’t a school sized bookbag. Its a multi-day, full body backpack with a waist harness and all my clothes for four months of traveling.</p> <p>‘Not a problem’. ‘Don’t worry’. The motorcycle guy kept telling me. At first I didn’t see how this was physically possible but he proved me wrong. That dude flung my giant backpack in front of him and rested it between the handlebars on his motorbike. I hopped on the back, put on a helmet, and away we went on the 30 minute ride up winding mountain roads to Minca. I don’t have a picture for obvious safety reasons. But that shit would not be legal in the US.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Seeing What Minca Has to Offer</span></strong></h5> <figure id="attachment_352" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-352" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-352 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8029.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Minca" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8029.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8029.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8029.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8029.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8029.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-352" class="wp-caption-text">Minca Maps by Simon</figcaption></figure> <p>I checked into my hostel and could already tell I was going to enjoy my stay. The main part of town is small – just a few main roads intersecting over a small river. Every bar, restaurant, grocery store, and taxi stand is within about two blocks of this intersection. The owner of my hostel gave me a map and a run down of all the good hikes and places to eat. You don’t get this kind of personal attention when traveling in large cities like Medellin or Cartagena. But you get it in a three room hostel Minca.</p> <p>On my first afternoon in Minca, I hiked through town and partially up a mountain to tour a local coffee and cacao plantation. The hike involved some steep sections, but by now I had a few days of recovery time since hiking Ciudad Perdida. It also helped that the views were beautiful and I was in no rush to get there. I enjoyed a slow and leisurely stroll up that mountain trail.</p> <figure id="attachment_350" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-350" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-350 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8207.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8207.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8207.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8207.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8207.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8207.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-350" class="wp-caption-text">Minca Views</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_354" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-354" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-354 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8064.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Minca" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8064.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8064.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8064.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8064.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8064.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-354" class="wp-caption-text">Cacao Plantation in MInca</figcaption></figure> <p><span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;">I had toured another coffee plantation when in Panama, so I opted for only the Cacao tour in Minca. On the tour, I was joined by a group of outgoing New Zealand biologists. The tour guide was a younger guy named Levi, who I’m confident was stoned during entire tour. This hypothesis was verified when we all saw him smoking a joint while driving his motorcycle heading back down the mountain later that afternoon. Still, given Levi’s state of mind he was surprisingly peppy and full of goofy energy. As a result, the tour was a blast yet still unexpectedly educational. Levi talked about the Cacao planting process, and showed us what chocolate looks like from fresh seed, to roasting, to raw product.</span></p> <figure id="attachment_364" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-364" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-364 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8096.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8096.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8096.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8096.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8096.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8096.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-364" class="wp-caption-text">Cacao Tree</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_366" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-366" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-366 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8088.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8088.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8088.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8088.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8088.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8088.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-366" class="wp-caption-text">The Plantation’s Pet Toucan Helping Himself to Some Sugar</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_349" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-349" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-349 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8125.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="MInca" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8125.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8125.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8125.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8125.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8125.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8125.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-349" class="wp-caption-text">Cacao Plantation and Day Spa</figcaption></figure> <p>During the tour we got to try freshly dried cacao beans, which Levi then ground up and put into hot water to make hot chocolate. The tour ends with Levi slathering on a mix of ground chocolate and coffee on everyone’s faces, telling us it was great for our skin. Sound a little strange and gimmicky? Maybe. But Levi put the grainy brown mixture on his own face too without hesitation. When in Rome.</p> <p>Following the tour, the New Zealanders and I walked back down the mountain together back to town. It was early evening by then and the sun was setting, making for some ‘real beautiful sunset views. We all grabbed dinner together at a local backpacker hangout before parting ways. As first days in a new town go, I could not have asked for much more.</p> <figure id="attachment_362" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-362" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-362 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8177.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8177.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8177.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8177.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8177.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8177.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8177.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-362" class="wp-caption-text">Minca Sunsets with the Sierra Nevada Mountains in the Background</figcaption></figure> <p>I spent the second day hiking to Pozo Azul, a set of small waterfalls and a swimming hole. While I found the site to be on the underwhelming side, I did enjoy the hike. My feet were still mildly sore and recovering from the trauma of Ciudad Perdida. But it was good to know that I could walk for several hours and still manage to enjoy it. I’m sure it helped that I wasn’t trying to catch up with speed walking European youths on the way. Plus this adorable stray dog followed me for a good three hours of hiking so I had good company.</p> <figure id="attachment_355" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-355" style="width: 278px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-355 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8204.jpg?resize=278%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="278" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8204.jpg?resize=278%2C325&ssl=1 278w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8204.jpg?resize=768%2C897&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8204.jpg?resize=876%2C1024&ssl=1 876w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8204.jpg?resize=1140%2C1332&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8204.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 278px) 100vw, 278px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-355" class="wp-caption-text">Dog Stalkers</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_368" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-368" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-368 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8189.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8189.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8189.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8189.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8189.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8189.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-368" class="wp-caption-text">Pozo Azul</figcaption></figure> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Now Relax and Breathe</strong></span></h5> <p>I only stayed two nights in Minca. On my last morning before catching the bus to Cartagena I took an early morning Prayama yoga class at a local studio. A Russian Expat and his wife run the school. They visited Minca five years ago, loved it, and moved there to start a Yoga school and retreat. I was the only one in class, which was held outdoors with full mountain views. We warmed up for the first 20 minutes with a few sun salutations, but spent most of the class on breathing exercises. Alex and walked me through the basics of Prayama breathing and after the previous week of sweat, (almost) tears, and physical strain I could feel myself finally relaxing. I started my last day in Minca feeling equally energized and calm. After the strain of Ciudad Perdida the prior week, it was a welcome sensation.</p> <p>And that’s Minca. Short and sweet. If you ever find yourself on the northern coast of Colombia I highly recommend making a stop. The people are nice, the mountains are beautiful, and there are unexpectedly good food options. It’s possible to see everything in a few short days, but you won’t be bored when you’re there. I’m glad I went. Now on to Cartagena.</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/minca-in-a-minute/">Minca in a Minute</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/minca-in-a-minute/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>4198</slash:comments> <post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">348</post-id> </item> <item> <title>Ciudad Perdida – The Hike That (Almost) Killed Me</title> <link>https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/ciudad-perdida-the-hike-that-almost-killed-me/</link> <comments>https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/ciudad-perdida-the-hike-that-almost-killed-me/#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Sat, 19 May 2018 16:25:41 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Ciudad Perdida]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Colombia]]></category> <category><![CDATA[South America]]></category> <category><![CDATA[ciudad perdida]]></category> <category><![CDATA[colombia]]></category> <category><![CDATA[hiking]]></category> <category><![CDATA[santa marta]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://markingmymap.com/?p=305</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain.  – Jack Kerouac First Stop: Santa Marta I spent most of the last week hiking the Ciudad Perdida (literally ‘Lost City’) trail in the Sierra Nevada mountains in Colombia.  It was breathtaking and totally exhilarating.  At times I also thought I was going to keel over and die right there on that mountain.  And for the first time in my travels, I felt kinda old.  And weak.  For the record, I am neither of these things.  But it’s fair to say my week included an abundance of emotions. I’ll start at the top. After leaving Medellin I flew into Santa Marta to spend a few nights before meeting my hiking tour group.  Santa Marta is on the northern coast of Colombia. It’s much hotter than Medellin and has a beach but otherwise isn’t much of a destination.  It’s typically used as a stop over point for hikers looking to trek the Ciudad Perdida or visit Tayrona National Park which are a few short hours away. I spent two glorious nights in Santa Marta a budget hotel with my own room, and my own bathroom.  The room had a TV that I never turned on and A/C.  I spent the day before my hike watching Netflix, writing my blog, and strolling around town.  I read a book and travel planned for a few hours at a coffee shop.  It was beyond lovely. Being the night owl that I am, I also stayed up too late the night before the tour writing and looking up dumb stuff on the internet until 2am.  NOT GREAT when you start a tough hike the next day.  No, Cass, that was not a good idea at all. Strike numero uno.  Off to a Rough Start The hike to Ciudad Perdida is 4-6 days depending on your endurance and preference.  The route and price are the same regardless of the length you choose.  This option is provided because, well, the hike is tough.  The tour companies tell you this information upfront, and from a common sense standpoint most people should already know.  You’re hiking through the middle of a Colombian jungle to an ancient city at the top of a mountain.  It’s humid.  It rains all the time.  There are mosquitos.  It’s steep.  You have to carry most of your own gear.  Still, most hikers opt for the 4 day route.  I’m reasonably fit and active so this is what I opted for as well. The day of the hike I was reasonably organized aside from the fact that I forgot to hit an ATM.  There are no ATMs anywhere near the trail and credit cards are not accepted.  You need cash before leaving Santa Marta.  Even though I passed a dozen ATMs the day before, that morning I could not find one for the life of me.  I walked way farther than necessary and was rushed to meet the guy from the tour company who showed up early to pick me up from my hotel.  I appreciated his timeliness, but this meant I didn’t have time for breakfast.  Skipping meals makes me sad. I love to eat.  And I was about to hike all afternoon.  Strike two. We drive to the tour office to meet up with the other hikers and it eventually becomes filled with 20 or so people ready to hit the trail.  It took only a few seconds for me to realize the group was mostly young(er) than me.  Almost all in fact.  Also, hardly anyone was talking in English, even though the tour group was specifically for English speakers.  (I’m all for Spanish immersion, but not when my language understanding impacts my survival in the Colombian wilderness. So it was English all the way!) While everyone spoke English, the preferred language of the group was clearly French.  These days I can get by in basic Spanish, but in French I can offer nothing.  Almost everyone else was also traveling with friends or family.  No solo travelers. Strike Three.  I tried not to get too anxious off my 4 hours of sleep, no breakfast, and sweaty physique from chasing an ATM around town.  But I couldn’t really help it.  Usually I look for a solo or small group of travelers, who look older than 20, speak some English and look friendly so I can start a conversation.  But with this group I was coming up empty handed. Meeting the Group Eventually we split into smaller groups and I succeed in finding a few friendly faces.  Thomas and Chris are Danish.  Despite living in Bogota for the last 5 months for school they don’t speak Spanish but definitely speak English. The Danes are (of course) in their early 20’s but they’re pleasant enough and we could carry on a conversation  The rest of my hiking group consists of four 20-something French guys traveling together, and a Suisse family.  The Suisse family was a husband and wife, their daughter and nephew.  The daughter and nephew are in their early 20’s (what other age would they be??).  The husband and wife are the only people older than me, but they’re far from elderly and still quite fit looking.  Given that Switzerland is full of mountains, I’m pretty sure they hike on a regular basis.  Later in the day, we’re also joined by a pleasant Dutch couple who, you guessed it, just graduated college. As I stood outside in the Santa Marta humidity waiting to drive to the trail head, I’ll admit I felt kind of out of place.  My hiking group consisted primarily of fit looking men in their early 20’s, two fit looking women in their early 20’s, and the Suisse mountain hiking parents. This was going to be a long four days.  But that’s ok, I thought.  It’s only four days.  I’ve done longer hikes.  And I’m an active and friendly person. Here’s the problem with this line of thinking. 1) Four straight days of hiking and carrying gear is difficult. 2) Four days of hiking in humidity, rain, and steep inclines is really damn difficult. 3) This type of hiking feels even longer when you have no one to talk to on the way.  At dinner every night the group and I all chatted and played card games until dark.  But I barely saw anyone on the hike.  Why you may be asking?  Well, that brings me to my final point. 4) Hiking with a group of mostly young men in their early 20’s is NOT FUN when you’re in your mid 30’s.  It’s a harsh, harsh, reality check if I ever had one.  Those fuckers hiked fast.  An un-enjoyable kind of fast.  We finished 6 or 7 hour hikes in under 5 hours. This speed is not easy to maintain on flat terrain.  Try keeping it up when hiking up 400 meters in an hour and a half in humidity and mud. The Ciudad Perdida Trail To give you an idea of the route – the entire hike is just over 46 km round trip.  The first two days are spent hiking to the base of the Lost City. You summit on the morning of the third day, and spend that afternoon starting the return hike.  The fourth day is the longest distance and brings you back to where you started. The first day, we had a short three to four hour hike to our first camp and it downpoured most of the afternoon.  This is the rainforest after all.  Aside from getting drenched, the constant rain also makes the trail insanely challenging. The mud becomes a foot deep in places.  Keeping your footing is almost impossible, and during steep sections you end up sliding down the trail more than you’re actually walking it.  I fell down a few times and was not alone in having red mud caked clothes when we got to camp. We lucked out in that it didn’t start raining the second day until we were almost finished for the day.  But once your clothes get wet, they stay wet for the duration of the hike.  Nothing dries in the humid jungle.                       We reached the Ciudad Perdida as planned on the morning of the third day.  We started that day with a 45 minute trek, a treacherous river crossing with a strong current (depending on how much it’s been raining), and up 1200+ stone stairs to the Ciudad Perdida site.   You climb those stairs after spending two days hiking up steep mountainsides and burning out your legs.  It’s not easy.  If you’re lucky, it doesn’t rain when you’re climbing and the stairs aren’t too slippery.  We were lucky but it’s still a hazardous ascent.                   The Main Attraction Ok, so negativity and complaining aside, I am very glad I did this hike.  Ciudad Perdida is really, really, really breathtaking and amazing. A little history, for those that are interested. Ciudad Perdida is located in the Colombian jungle in the Sierra Nevada mountains, and to his day remains only accessible by foot.  Archeologists date it back to about 800 AD, which by the way, is several hundred years before Macchu Picchu.  While it’s location was well known by indigenous peoples, it disappeared into the jungle around the time of the Spanish conquest.  The site was ‘discovered’ again in the 1970s when grave robbers began visiting looking for gold.  The city goes by three other names, but the most common is it’s indigenous name Teyuna.  Ciudad Perdida served primarily as a ceremonial center.  It consists of a series of 169 terraces carved into the mountainside, and several small circular plazas.  And it’s beautiful.   After reaching the Ciudad, we grabbed lunch, and did a ‘short’ 3 hour hike back to a camp site.  The fourth day we embarked on the long, painful, 15km hike back.  They say the return is somewhat easier because it’s more downhill.  This is a lie.  While true that it’s mostly downhill, there are two crazily challenging vertical uphill sections.  Not just vertically inclined switchbacks, but sections where you are hiking STRAIGHT UP for an hour.  And by now you have already hiked 30km and 1200 steps in 3 days and you’re tired, your clothes are wet, and your legs are sore.  Want to see a picture of what those steep inclines looked like?  Well I DON’T HAVE ONE.  I couldn’t breath at the time and couldn’t spare the energy to get my phone out of my backpack to take a picture.  You’ll just have to trust me. I’m not going to sugar coat it, this part of the experience really sucked.  Even the most confident of the Frenchies looked worse for wear that day.  Which means I was a literal disastrous hot mess.  I gave up even pretending to keep up.  I just wanted to survive.   When I arrived at break spots, everyone else was packing up to leave.  This means I either took a 5 minute break when everyone else took 20 minutes or I took no break at all.  Most of the time I just kept hiking so I wouldn’t fall embarrassingly far behind. When I get really tired hiking I start counting steps to keep me going.  I make myself get to 100 steps.  Then I say I can make it to 150 and I can take a break.  And then just a little bit more.  I remember getting to 1,000 on one particular incline and literally saying outloud ‘please, no more’.  ‘Please, please, say I’m almost at the top.’  I kept my head down trying not to look too far ahead so I wouldn’t lose my sh*t if I saw what was in front of me.  As the day progressed I gradually moved closer to the ground until I was basically crawling without putting my hands down....</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/ciudad-perdida-the-hike-that-almost-killed-me/">Ciudad Perdida – The Hike That (Almost) Killed Me</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #000080;">Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain. – Jack Kerouac</span></h4> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><u>First Stop: Santa Marta</u></h5> <p>I spent most of the last week hiking the Ciudad Perdida (literally ‘Lost City’) trail in the Sierra Nevada mountains in Colombia. It was breathtaking and totally exhilarating. At times I also thought I was going to keel over and die right there on that mountain. And for the first time in my travels, I felt kinda old. And weak. For the record, I am neither of these things. But it’s fair to say my week included an abundance of emotions.</p> <p>I’ll start at the top.</p> <p>After leaving Medellin I flew into Santa Marta to spend a few nights before meeting my hiking tour group. Santa Marta is on the northern coast of Colombia. It’s much hotter than Medellin and has a beach but otherwise isn’t much of a destination. It’s typically used as a stop over point for hikers looking to trek the Ciudad Perdida or visit Tayrona National Park which are a few short hours away.</p> <figure id="attachment_313" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-313" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-313 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7758.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="Santa Marta" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7758.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7758.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7758.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7758.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7758.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7758.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-313" class="wp-caption-text">A nice, but unremarkable beach in Santa Marta</figcaption></figure> <p>I spent two glorious nights in Santa Marta a budget hotel with my own room, and my own bathroom. The room had a TV that I never turned on and A/C. I spent the day before my hike watching Netflix, writing my blog, and strolling around town. I read a book and travel planned for a few hours at a coffee shop. It was beyond lovely.</p> <figure id="attachment_312" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-312" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-312" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7763.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Santa Marta" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7763.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7763.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7763.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7763.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7763.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-312" class="wp-caption-text">Trip Planning and Afternoon Lazing</figcaption></figure> <p>Being the night owl that I am, I also stayed up too late the night before the tour writing and looking up dumb stuff on the internet until 2am. NOT GREAT when you start a tough hike the next day. No, Cass, that was not a good idea at all.</p> <p><em>Strike numero uno. </em></p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><u>Off to a Rough Start</u></h5> <p>The hike to Ciudad Perdida is 4-6 days depending on your endurance and preference. The route and price are the same regardless of the length you choose. This option is provided because, well, the hike is tough. The tour companies tell you this information upfront, and from a common sense standpoint most people should already know. You’re hiking through the middle of a Colombian jungle to an ancient city at the top of a mountain. It’s humid. It rains all the time. There are mosquitos. It’s steep. You have to carry most of your own gear. Still, most hikers opt for the 4 day route. I’m reasonably fit and active so this is what I opted for as well.</p> <p>The day of the hike I was reasonably organized aside from the fact that I forgot to hit an ATM. There are no ATMs anywhere near the trail and credit cards are not accepted. You need cash before leaving Santa Marta. Even though I passed a dozen ATMs the day before, that morning I could not find one for the life of me. I walked <em>way</em> farther than necessary and was rushed to meet the guy from the tour company who showed up early to pick me up from my hotel. I appreciated his timeliness, but this meant I didn’t have time for breakfast. Skipping meals makes me sad. I love to eat. And I was about to hike all afternoon. <em>Strike two.</em></p> <p>We drive to the tour office to meet up with the other hikers and it eventually becomes filled with 20 or so people ready to hit the trail. It took only a few seconds for me to realize the group was mostly young(er) than me. Almost all in fact. Also, hardly anyone was talking in English, even though the tour group was specifically for English speakers. (I’m all for Spanish immersion, but not when my language understanding impacts my survival in the Colombian wilderness. So it was English all the way!) While everyone spoke English, the preferred language of the group was clearly French. These days I can get by in basic Spanish, but in French I can offer nothing. Almost everyone else was also traveling with friends or family. No solo travelers.</p> <p><em>Strike Three. </em></p> <p>I tried not to get too anxious off my 4 hours of sleep, no breakfast, and sweaty physique from chasing an ATM around town. But I couldn’t really help it. Usually I look for a solo or small group of travelers, who look older than 20, speak some English and look friendly so I can start a conversation. But with this group I was coming up empty handed.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Meeting the Group</strong></span></h5> <p>Eventually we split into smaller groups and I succeed in finding a few friendly faces. Thomas and Chris are Danish. Despite living in Bogota for the last 5 months for school they don’t speak Spanish but definitely speak English. The Danes are (of course) in their early 20’s but they’re pleasant enough and we could carry on a conversation The rest of my hiking group consists of four 20-something French guys traveling together, and a Suisse family. The Suisse family was a husband and wife, their daughter and nephew. The daughter and nephew are in their early 20’s (what other age would they be??). The husband and wife are the only people older than me, but they’re far from elderly and still quite fit looking. Given that Switzerland is full of mountains, I’m pretty sure they hike on a regular basis. Later in the day, we’re also joined by a pleasant Dutch couple who, you guessed it, just graduated college.</p> <p>As I stood outside in the Santa Marta humidity waiting to drive to the trail head, I’ll admit I felt kind of out of place. My hiking group consisted primarily of fit looking men in their early 20’s, two fit looking women in their early 20’s, and the Suisse mountain hiking parents. This was going to be a long four days. But that’s ok, I thought. It’s only four days. I’ve done longer hikes. And I’m an active and friendly person.</p> <p>Here’s the problem with this line of thinking.</p> <p>1) Four straight days of hiking and carrying gear is difficult.</p> <p>2) Four days of hiking in humidity, rain, and steep inclines is really damn difficult.</p> <p>3) This type of hiking feels even longer when you have no one to talk to on the way. At dinner every night the group and I all chatted and played card games until dark. But I barely saw anyone on the hike. Why you may be asking? Well, that brings me to my final point.</p> <p>4) Hiking with a group of mostly young men in their early 20’s is<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong> NOT FUN</strong></span> when you’re in your mid 30’s. It’s a harsh, harsh, reality check if I ever had one. Those fuckers hiked fast. An un-enjoyable kind of fast. We finished 6 or 7 hour hikes in under 5 hours. This speed is not easy to maintain on flat terrain. Try keeping it up when hiking up 400 meters in an hour and a half in humidity and mud.</p> <figure id="attachment_333" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-333" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-333 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7841.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7841.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7841.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7841.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7841.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7841.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-333" class="wp-caption-text">Hiking in the Jungle</figcaption></figure> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>The Ciudad Perdida Trail</strong></span></h5> <p>To give you an idea of the route – the entire hike is just over 46 km round trip. The first two days are spent hiking to the base of the Lost City. You summit on the morning of the third day, and spend that afternoon starting the return hike. The fourth day is the longest distance and brings you back to where you started.</p> <p>The first day, we had a short three to four hour hike to our first camp and it downpoured most of the afternoon. This is the rainforest after all. Aside from getting drenched, the constant rain also makes the trail insanely challenging. The mud becomes a foot deep in places. Keeping your footing is almost impossible, and during steep sections you end up sliding down the trail more than you’re actually walking it. I fell down a few times and was not alone in having red mud caked clothes when we got to camp.</p> <p>We lucked out in that it didn’t start raining the second day until we were almost finished for the day. But once your clothes get wet, they stay wet for the duration of the hike. Nothing dries in the humid jungle.</p> <figure id="attachment_320" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-320" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-320 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7961.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7961.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7961.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7961.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7961.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7961.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7961.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-320" class="wp-caption-text">It rains almost everyday on the trail</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_318" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-318" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-318 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7984.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7984.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7984.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7984.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7984.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7984.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-318" class="wp-caption-text">What’s that? oh it’s raining again</figcaption></figure> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>We reached the Ciudad Perdida as planned on the morning of the third day. We started that day with a 45 minute trek, a treacherous river crossing with a strong current (depending on how much it’s been raining), and up 1200+ stone stairs to the Ciudad Perdida site. You climb those stairs after spending two days hiking up steep mountainsides and burning out your legs. It’s not easy. If you’re lucky, it doesn’t rain when you’re climbing and the stairs aren’t too slippery. We were lucky but it’s still a hazardous ascent.</p> <figure id="attachment_316" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-316" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-316 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7839.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Ciudad Perdida" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7839.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7839.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7839.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7839.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7839.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-316" class="wp-caption-text">Crossing the Buritaca River</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_315" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-315" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-315 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7863.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Ciudad Perdida" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7863.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7863.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7863.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7863.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7863.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-315" class="wp-caption-text">Stone Stairs to Ciudad Perdida. THEY’RE NEVER ENDING</figcaption></figure> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h5></h5> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>The Main Attraction</strong></span></h5> <p>Ok, so negativity and complaining aside, I am very glad I did this hike. Ciudad Perdida is really, really, <em>really</em> breathtaking and amazing.</p> <p>A little history, for those that are interested.</p> <p>Ciudad Perdida is located in the Colombian jungle in the Sierra Nevada mountains, and to his day remains only accessible by foot. Archeologists date it back to about 800 AD, which by the way, is several hundred years <em>before</em> Macchu Picchu. While it’s location was well known by indigenous peoples, it disappeared into the jungle around the time of the Spanish conquest. The site was ‘discovered’ again in the 1970s when grave robbers began visiting looking for gold. The city goes by three other names, but the most common is it’s indigenous name Teyuna. Ciudad Perdida served primarily as a ceremonial center. It consists of a series of 169 terraces carved into the mountainside, and several small circular plazas. And it’s beautiful.</p> <figure id="attachment_327" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-327" style="width: 768px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-327 size-large" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7912.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1" alt="" width="768" height="1024" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7912.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7912.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7912.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7912.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7912.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-327" class="wp-caption-text">Ciudad Perdida</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_329" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-329" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-329 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7891.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7891.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7891.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7891.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7891.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7891.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-329" class="wp-caption-text">The terraces</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_322" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-322" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-322 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7948.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7948.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7948.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7948.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7948.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7948.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-322" class="wp-caption-text">The group taking a break</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_330" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-330" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-330 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7882.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7882.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7882.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7882.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7882.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7882.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-330" class="wp-caption-text">Taking in the view</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_325" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-325" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-325 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7917.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7917.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7917.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7917.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7917.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7917.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-325" class="wp-caption-text">Made it. If I look a little shiny its because I’m covered in a delicate mix of sweat and deet</figcaption></figure> <p> </p> <p>After reaching the Ciudad, we grabbed lunch, and did a ‘short’ 3 hour hike back to a camp site. The fourth day we embarked on the long, painful, 15km hike back. They say the return is somewhat easier because it’s more downhill. This is a lie. While true that it’s mostly downhill, there are two <em>crazily</em> challenging vertical uphill sections. Not just vertically inclined switchbacks, but sections where you are hiking STRAIGHT UP for an hour. And by now you have already hiked 30km and 1200 steps in 3 days and you’re tired, your clothes are wet, and your legs are sore. Want to see a picture of what those steep inclines looked like? Well I DON’T HAVE ONE. I couldn’t breath at the time and couldn’t spare the energy to get my phone out of my backpack to take a picture. You’ll just have to trust me.</p> <p>I’m not going to sugar coat it, this part of the experience really sucked. Even the most confident of the Frenchies looked worse for wear that day. Which means I was a literal disastrous hot mess. I gave up even pretending to keep up. I just wanted to survive. When I arrived at break spots, everyone else was packing up to leave. This means I either took a 5 minute break when everyone else took 20 minutes or I took no break at all. Most of the time I just kept hiking so I wouldn’t fall embarrassingly far behind.</p> <figure id="attachment_319" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-319" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-319 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7962.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7962.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7962.jpg?resize=768%2C1022&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7962.jpg?resize=769%2C1024&ssl=1 769w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7962.jpg?resize=1140%2C1517&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7962.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-319" class="wp-caption-text">Me on the last day. Hiking alone and waiting for it to be over</figcaption></figure> <p>When I get really tired hiking I start counting steps to keep me going. I make myself get to 100 steps. Then I say I can make it to 150 and I can take a break. And then just a little bit more. I remember getting to 1,000 on one particular incline and literally saying outloud ‘please, no more’. ‘Please, please, say I’m almost at the top.’ I kept my head down trying not to look too far ahead so I wouldn’t lose my sh*t if I saw what was in front of me. As the day progressed I gradually moved closer to the ground until I was basically crawling without putting my hands down.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong> Reflections</strong></span></h5> <p>So in case you didn’t get the message, this hike was hard. By the end, my clothes were drenched like I got caught in a torrential thunderstorm but it’s mostly sweat. My legs were chaffed from wearing wet clothes. My muscles were sore and my back hurt. I even had burn marks on my shoulders from my backpack straps rubbing against my sweaty shoulders. I’m proud of myself for making it, and I’m glad I did it, but I would be lying if I said I really enjoyed it. I’m glad it’s over. I don’t think I could do it again.</p> <p>Hiking wise, this experience also made me feel kinda old. And I really don’t appreciate that. Because I may not have led the pack but I DID keep up. Maybe most of the group finished a 7 hour hike in 5 hours, but I finished it in well under 6. And I wanted to feel good about that. I kept telling myself I should feel good about that. But damn it, it’s hard when you’re rolling up <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em>last</em></span> everyday. Even harder when you feel and look utterly exhausted and are greeted by these peppy youngsters who ran down the mountain, and who are already smoking a cigarette and drinking beer by the time you show up to camp.</p> <p>In retrospect, I would have enjoyed this hike a lot more if I had a friend with me. I didn’t feel lonely per se. That’s not quite the right term. But everyone was so far ahead that I hiked most of the trail alone. I’m pretty damn great, but this gets dull and makes time go slowly. And while I got along with everyone, I didn’t have the same level of camaraderie with the group. Why would I? Or why would I want to? I’m not 22, just graduating school, and living out of a 30 liter backpack. Aside from the Suisse parents, I was the only one who’d ever had a real adult job. I’m not living off of student loans or my parents money. I’m good with that. I don’t want to be 22 again. But this was the first time in traveling where I really wish I had someone close to my age to hang out with. Or within 5 years either way. I’m not picky.</p> <p>This hike did make me nervous because I’m supposed to climb Kiliminjaro in August. That hike will be extremely difficult, and much more so than Ciudad. I know it will be hard, but want to enjoy the experience more than this one. I still feel optimistic. In contrast to this experience, I’ll be with a group of friends. Friends that are closer in age to me and experience (and hopefully pace). Hiking the Ciudad Perdida trail made me realize how much a support system matters when you’re testing your limits, physical or otherwise. Hint: it counts for a whole helluva lot.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>After the Hike</strong></span></h5> <p>After visiting the Lost City I had plans to go to Tayrona National Park nearby for more hiking. On day 3 of Ciudad Perdida, I told myself I could still make it to Tayrona. It will be different, I told myself. I can go at my own speed. I can take my time and enjoy it. By day 4, I gave up on this dream/self deception. I had no urge to put my mud-caked, soaked, hiking shoes back on anytime soon. I would not enjoy it.</p> <figure id="attachment_317" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-317" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-317 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7991.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Ciudad Perdida" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7991.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7991.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7991.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7991.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7991.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-317" class="wp-caption-text">My shoes at the end of the hike</figcaption></figure> <p>Instead I found a quiet hostel near the mountains and Tayrona Park but away from the noise and bustle of Santa Marta. The hotel had a pool and an onsite restaurant. It was more than I budget for a stay these days but it was still less than a cheap motel in the US. I booked a private bungalow which was basically a tree house. While staying here I slept in, relaxed, read, and spent the day looking at dumb stuff over bad wifi. I was not going to feel guilty about the fact that I wasn’t seeing everything I could possibly see in Colombia, or hiking every national park. Sometimes you can’t do everything.</p> <figure id="attachment_340" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-340" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-340" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8020.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Zaino" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8020.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8020.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8020.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8020.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_8020.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-340" class="wp-caption-text">Tree House Bungalow</figcaption></figure> <p>For me, this time of travel is just as much about seeing the world as it is about learning how to slow down and simplify. I’m not always good at that. I’m the type of person that feels guilty if I don’t wake up for 6am spin class. It doesn’t matter if I’m tired because I worked late the night before, or felt obligated to go to some coworker happy hour that I didn’t feel up for in the first place. I get things done and I show up to things.</p> <p>This week I tried something new, had an unforgettable experience, and stretched myself. But in life and in traveling you have to know your limits. I reached a physical one this week and now I’m taking a break.</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/ciudad-perdida-the-hike-that-almost-killed-me/">Ciudad Perdida – The Hike That (Almost) Killed Me</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/ciudad-perdida-the-hike-that-almost-killed-me/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>4153</slash:comments> <post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">305</post-id> </item> <item> <title>For the Love of Medellín</title> <link>https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/for-the-love-of-medellin/</link> <comments>https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/for-the-love-of-medellin/#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Thu, 10 May 2018 07:11:15 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Colombia]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Medellin]]></category> <category><![CDATA[South America]]></category> <category><![CDATA[colombia]]></category> <category><![CDATA[comuna 13]]></category> <category><![CDATA[el poblado]]></category> <category><![CDATA[medellin]]></category> <category><![CDATA[parque arvi]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://markingmymap.com/?p=251</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>“Traveling is like flirting with life. It’s like saying, ‘I would stay and love you, but I have to go; this is my station.”   — Lisa St. Aubin de Teran Seeing All Medellín Has to Offer Lately I’ve never wanted to be another nationality so bad as I lately want to be Colombian.  Every time I look out onto the rolling green mountains of Medellin, eat a Buñelo, or hear someone roll their ‘rr’ I have a small pang of jealously.  Part of my immense affection for this city may also stem from finally adjusting to the euphoric realization that I really did quit my job to travel the world.  That really happened.  I was so busy with Spanish classes the first few weeks of traveling in Panama, I don’t think I fully absorbed this new reality. Regardless, my time in Medellín is coming to an end.  I’m both ready to try a new destination and sorry to go.  I feel pretty satisfied with the sites I’ve seen and the people I’ve met.  My last week in Medellín was also highlighted by many shared experiences with new people and fellow travelers I encountered along the way.  After all, half the fun of traveling is not the things you see but the people you meet.  I’m also left with lingering sensation that I just brushed the surface of everything this city and it’s people have to offer.  This only makes me think it’s likely I’ll come back here one day, and for that matter you should too.  If you need convincing, I will gladly take the rest of this blog post to do that for you. City Sites Outside the City Limits First of all, I have to talk about Parque Arví.  I went to this Park on a solo outing, and it is the one place that I would have loved to re-visit if I were staying a few days longer.  Arví is accessible by public transportation, but it’s no small trek to get there.  It involves taking the metro train, and transferring to a cable line to get up one of the many mountains surrounding the city.  Once you get to the end of the first cable line, you need to transfer to a second metro cable just to get out to the Park.  It’s easy enough.  Even a directionally confused person like myself can figure out these transfers and you don’t even have to leave the station.  But it took me a good 2 hours one-way from my Airbnb in Poblado to get there.  All this effort, and I still wish I had more time to go back. Even if you don’t want to visit the park to hike or see any sites, I would recommend the metro cable just for the views.  The first line shows amazing views from the city as you climb up the mountain.  The second cable line carries you for a half an hour over dense forests and uninhabitable wilderness out to the national park.  It was a stunning and relaxing ride.                             Once you get to Parque Arvi, there are several hiking trails available to take though the vast green wilderness.  I had read about the park beforehand, but didn’t read closely enough to fully comprehend its size.  As a result, I didn’t come with the right clothes or shoes for a full day of hiking and didn’t give myself enough time to explore.  By the time I arrived, I only had a few short hours before I had to make my way back to the city to meet up with a language exchange for dinner. I only had enough time for a short 45 minute hike to the closest picnic area before turning around.  Still, I thoroughly enjoyed my time here.  The ride on the cable line was memorable for it’s super impressive construction and views.  And for a few short hours I got to leave the city limits and hear nothing but trees blowing in the wind and birds chirping. Still Trying this Spanish Thing After Parque Arví I got back in the city with plenty of time to make my first of two language exchange dinner/happy hours I attended during my stay in Medellín.  I found the first exchange through a  Meet Up group online (I’ve always been a fan of these).  I heard about the second one through a friend I met at the first exchange.  The concept is simple enough.  Foreigners show up to practice their Spanish.  Locals show up to practice their English.  Everyone has a beer or two, eats some food, makes a few language mistakes, and has a good time.  The first exchange I went to was at an Italian restaurant not too far from my Airbnb, and the second  was at a nearby language school.  Both were in Poblado and walkable from my Airbnb so I could not have asked for more. What I enjoyed most about these exchanges was that I ended up talking to more local Paisas (Piasas: people from Medellín/Antioqia) than foreigners.  This is all fine by me, because it makes for better Spanish practice.  However this experience also taught me that the Colombians are a lot better at learning English than I am at learning Spanish. You pay attention to the words people use a lot more when you’re trying to learn another language.  This makes me endlessly impressed by locals who knew the most random words in English which I could never translate.  How did you ever learn the english word for barley or hops? Or how to say someone is sulking? Or the word for a draftsperson? I’m always left wondering these things.  It’s all so specific and used so infrequently.  And once you learned it, how did you remember it?   Memory is the part of language learning that currently escapes me. I learn lots of new words every day, but if I don’t have a reason to use it 3 times in the first hour, it leaves my brain forever. Once again, I’m also left with a feeling that Colombians are incredibly warm and welcoming.  They showed immense patience with my beginner Spanish, and helped me learn a lot more than I think I ever taught them in these exchanges.  At the end of the night I exchanged What’sApp information with a few of them.  Within 24 hours I had messages from people asking how my day went, and giving recommendations of things to see in the city.  Major props Colombians. Past and the Present of Medellin Another highlight of my week was taking walking tour Comuna 13.  I know….this sounds like dystopian sci fi movie title.  The long and short story is that, until about 15 years ago, Comuna 13 was an illegal housing development on the edge of the city.  As the city grew in population, its citizens simply needed more places to live and started building.  But the Colombian government initially refused to recognize the development, and made the homes illegal.  For years, the city refused to service Comuna 13 with electricity, plumbing, or police presence.  And you can guess what happened.  The same thing that would happen to any part of a major city without police or city services.  It became a hotbed for illegal activity and violence. After years of strife and public outcry, in the 2000’s the government finally changed its tune, and  accepted the neighborhood as legit. What followed was a major clean up effort and new city services.  One of those services included installing several outdoor escalators to get into the inner workings of the neighborhood.  This sounds strange, but if you’ve ever lived in a town surrounded by mountains, those escalators are huge.  It recognized the residents as being worthy of investment, made the area more accessible, and changed the public perception of the entire development.  Along with this project, the city also commissioned several graffiti artists to paint murals on the streets around the escalators. The end result of all this is huge revision of the area, maybe even a sense of pride for its residents, and an intended/unintended tourist attraction.  To see the area, I met up with my German friend Antonia from earlier in the week for another walking tour of Comuna 13 given by a local living there.   Much like the rest of the city, Comuna 13 has a dark past, but the graffiti commemorates and remembers these events through art.   Here’s just a taste, but it is a beautiful and impressive that I would recommend to anyone visiting the city.  Which in case you haven’t gotten the hint, you should definitely visit Medellin.                                 Ending on a High Note My last few days in Medellin were by far the best of all and that’s because they were highlighted by two events.  One, a visit to the Piedra and Guatape just outside the city limits (we’ll get to that in a minute).  And secondly, I was joined in my Airbnb by another traveler, although a much more local one.  Juan is a 24 year old Venezuelan living in Bogota and is renting the other open bedroom in the Airbnb apartment where I’m staying. I met Juan just before the weekend late in the evening as I was coming back from a long and tiring day of city walking.  We didn’t talk much aside from a casual introduction, but I got the chance to chat with him much more the next day.  He was in the city for work and his job and put him up a the Airbnb.  As we were talking he mentioned he was hungry and asked if I wanted to get food.  Lucky for him, my answer to this question is always yes.  We ended up getting coffee, checking out the Saturday morning market at Bolivar Park, walking through the local Botanical Garden, and drinking until one in the morning.               Throughout the day I try to talk in broken Spanish to get in some practice.  Juan mostly understands what I’m saying, but whenever he speaks back to me I unfortunately understand nothing.  As a result he’s patient enough to talk to me in English for most of of the day.  In a relatively short amount of time Juan and I get to be pretty good friends.  I learn about his family and his job, and he learns about my life and why I decided to leave some of it behind to travel.  Juan is one of those people that asks genuine, but somewhat personal questions that your best friend might not even ask you.  And then he listens to your answer.  Ultimately it all gives the impression that he’s legitimately interested in having a real conversation and getting to know someone.  Yep, he’s a good kid.  Lol. Guatapé and La Piedra One thing on just about every must visit list for Medellin is a trip to the tiny lakefront town of Guatapé and El Peñon de Guatape, otherwise known as La Piedra, otherwise known as ‘the Rock’.  In truth, I was less than motivated to go.  Not because I wasn’t interested, but touristing is damn exhausting.  You’re looking at maps  and trudging all over the city all day.  I was KILLING it in my fitbit step count, but by the end of the week I was tired.  I originally planned to go to Guatapé on Friday, but pushed it to Monday out of exhaustion.  When I woke up on Monday morning to be greeted by rain and dark skies, I almost backed out.  It’s a 2 hour bus ride to the town, and 2 hours back.  Part of me wanted to watch Netflix and hang out at a coffee shop all day.  But no. I dragged myself out of the apartment relatively early and made it to the bus...</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/for-the-love-of-medellin/">For the Love of Medellín</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4><span style="color: #000080;">“<em>Traveling is like flirting with life. It’s like saying, ‘I would stay and love you, but I have to go; this is my station.</em>” — Lisa St. Aubin de Teran</span></h4> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Seeing All Medellín Has to Offer</strong></span></h5> <p>Lately I’ve never wanted to be another nationality so bad as I lately want to be Colombian. Every time I look out onto the rolling green mountains of Medellin, eat a Buñelo, or hear someone roll their ‘rr’ I have a small pang of jealously. Part of my immense affection for this city may also stem from finally adjusting to the euphoric realization that I really did quit my job to travel the world. That really happened. I was so busy with Spanish classes the first few weeks of traveling in Panama, I don’t think I fully absorbed this new reality.</p> <p>Regardless, my time in Medellín is coming to an end. I’m both ready to try a new destination and sorry to go. I feel pretty satisfied with the sites I’ve seen and the people I’ve met. My last week in Medellín was also highlighted by many shared experiences with new people and fellow travelers I encountered along the way. After all, half the fun of traveling is not the things you see but the people you meet. I’m also left with lingering sensation that I just brushed the surface of everything this city and it’s people have to offer. This only makes me think it’s likely I’ll come back here one day, and for that matter you should too. If you need convincing, I will gladly take the rest of this blog post to do that for you.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">City Sites Outside the City Limits</span></strong></h5> <p>First of all, I have to talk about Parque Arví. I went to this Park on a solo outing, and it is the one place that I would have loved to re-visit if I were staying a few days longer. Arví is accessible by public transportation, but it’s no small trek to get there. It involves taking the metro train, and transferring to a cable line to get up one of the many mountains surrounding the city. Once you get to the end of the first cable line, you need to transfer to a second metro cable just to get out to the Park. It’s easy enough. Even a directionally confused person like myself can figure out these transfers and you don’t even have to leave the station. But it took me a good 2 hours one-way from my Airbnb in Poblado to get there. All this effort, and I still wish I had more time to go back.</p> <p>Even if you don’t want to visit the park to hike or see any sites, I would recommend the metro cable just for the views. The first line shows amazing views from the city as you climb up the mountain. The second cable line carries you for a half an hour over dense forests and uninhabitable wilderness out to the national park. It was a stunning and relaxing ride.</p> <figure id="attachment_253" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-253" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-253 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7447.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Parque Arvi" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7447.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7447.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7447.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7447.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7447.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-253" class="wp-caption-text">Medellin’s Metro Cable Line</figcaption></figure> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="alignleft wp-image-252 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7352.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="Medellin" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7352.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7352.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7352.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7352.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7352.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7352.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /></p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-258 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7431.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7431.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7431.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7431.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7431.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7431.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7431.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <div style="width: 720px;" class="wp-video"><video class="wp-video-shortcode" id="video-251-3" width="720" height="1280" preload="metadata" controls="controls"><source type="video/mp4" src="https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7416.m4v?_=3" /><a href="https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7416.m4v">https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7416.m4v</a></video></div> <p> </p> <p>Once you get to Parque Arvi, there are several hiking trails available to take though the vast green wilderness. I had read about the park beforehand, but didn’t read closely enough to fully comprehend its size. As a result, I didn’t come with the right clothes or shoes for a full day of hiking and didn’t give myself enough time to explore. By the time I arrived, I only had a few short hours before I had to make my way back to the city to meet up with a language exchange for dinner.</p> <p>I only had enough time for a short 45 minute hike to the closest picnic area before turning around. Still, I thoroughly enjoyed my time here. The ride on the cable line was memorable for it’s super impressive construction and views. And for a few short hours I got to leave the city limits and hear nothing but trees blowing in the wind and birds chirping.</p> <figure id="attachment_255" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-255" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-255 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7398.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="parque arvi" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7398.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7398.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7398.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7398.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7398.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7398.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-255" class="wp-caption-text">Views from the tree tops</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_265" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-265" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-265 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7382.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="parque arvi" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7382.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7382.jpg?resize=768%2C1022&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7382.jpg?resize=769%2C1024&ssl=1 769w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7382.jpg?resize=1140%2C1517&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7382.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-265" class="wp-caption-text">Relaxing in the Picnic Area</figcaption></figure> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5></h5> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Still Trying this Spanish Thing</strong></span></h5> <p>After Parque Arví I got back in the city with plenty of time to make my first of two language exchange dinner/happy hours I attended during my stay in Medellín. I found the first exchange through a Meet Up group online (I’ve always been a fan of these). I heard about the second one through a friend I met at the first exchange. The concept is simple enough. Foreigners show up to practice their Spanish. Locals show up to practice their English. Everyone has a beer or two, eats some food, makes a few language mistakes, and has a good time. The first exchange I went to was at an Italian restaurant not too far from my Airbnb, and the second was at a nearby language school. Both were in Poblado and walkable from my Airbnb so I could not have asked for more.</p> <p>What I enjoyed most about these exchanges was that I ended up talking to more local Paisas (Piasas: people from Medellín/Antioqia) than foreigners. This is all fine by me, because it makes for better Spanish practice. However this experience also taught me that the Colombians are a lot better at learning English than I am at learning Spanish.</p> <p>You pay attention to the words people use a lot more when you’re trying to learn another language. This makes me endlessly impressed by locals who knew the most random words in English which I could never translate. How did you ever learn the english word for barley or hops? Or how to say someone is sulking? Or the word for a draftsperson? I’m always left wondering these things. It’s all so specific and used so infrequently. And once you learned it, how did you remember it? Memory is the part of language learning that currently escapes me. I learn lots of new words every day, but if I don’t have a reason to use it 3 times in the first hour, it leaves my brain forever.</p> <p>Once again, I’m also left with a feeling that Colombians are incredibly warm and welcoming. They showed immense patience with my beginner Spanish, and helped me learn a lot more than I think I ever taught them in these exchanges. At the end of the night I exchanged What’sApp information with a few of them. Within 24 hours I had messages from people asking how my day went, and giving recommendations of things to see in the city. Major props Colombians.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Past and the Present of Medellin</strong></span></h5> <p>Another highlight of my week was taking walking tour Comuna 13. I know….this sounds like dystopian sci fi movie title. The long and short story is that, until about 15 years ago, Comuna 13 was an illegal housing development on the edge of the city. As the city grew in population, its citizens simply needed more places to live and started building. But the Colombian government initially refused to recognize the development, and made the homes illegal. For years, the city refused to service Comuna 13 with electricity, plumbing, or police presence. And you can guess what happened. The same thing that would happen to any part of a major city without police or city services. It became a hotbed for illegal activity and violence.</p> <p>After years of strife and public outcry, in the 2000’s the government finally changed its tune, and accepted the neighborhood as legit. What followed was a major clean up effort and new city services. One of those services included installing several outdoor escalators to get into the inner workings of the neighborhood. This sounds strange, but if you’ve ever lived in a town surrounded by mountains, those escalators are huge. It recognized the residents as being worthy of investment, made the area more accessible, and changed the public perception of the entire development. Along with this project, the city also commissioned several graffiti artists to paint murals on the streets around the escalators.</p> <figure id="attachment_267" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-267" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-267 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7465.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Comuna 13" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7465.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7465.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7465.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7465.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7465.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-267" class="wp-caption-text">The orange tops are the series of outdoor escalators</figcaption></figure> <p>The end result of all this is huge revision of the area, maybe even a sense of pride for its residents, and an intended/unintended tourist attraction. To see the area, I met up with my German friend Antonia from earlier in the week for another walking tour of Comuna 13 given by a local living there. Much like the rest of the city, Comuna 13 has a dark past, but the graffiti commemorates and remembers these events through art. Here’s just a taste, but it is a beautiful and impressive that I would recommend to anyone visiting the city. Which in case you haven’t gotten the hint, <strong><em>you should definitely visit Medellin</em></strong>.</p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-275 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7511.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7511.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7511.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7511.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7511.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7511.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7511.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /> <img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-271 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7498.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7498.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7498.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7498.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7498.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7498.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7498.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /></p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-274 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7461.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7461.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7461.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7461.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7461.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7461.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /> <img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-270 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7527.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7527.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7527.jpg?resize=768%2C1022&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7527.jpg?resize=769%2C1024&ssl=1 769w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7527.jpg?resize=1140%2C1517&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7527.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><b><u>Ending on a High Note</u></b></p> <p>My last few days in Medellin were by far the best of all and that’s because they were highlighted by two events. One, a visit to the Piedra and Guatape just outside the city limits (we’ll get to that in a minute). And secondly, I was joined in my Airbnb by another traveler, although a much more local one. Juan is a 24 year old Venezuelan living in Bogota and is renting the other open bedroom in the Airbnb apartment where I’m staying.</p> <p>I met Juan just before the weekend late in the evening as I was coming back from a long and tiring day of city walking. We didn’t talk much aside from a casual introduction, but I got the chance to chat with him much more the next day. He was in the city for work and his job and put him up a the Airbnb. As we were talking he mentioned he was hungry and asked if I wanted to get food. Lucky for him, my answer to this question is always yes. We ended up getting coffee, checking out the Saturday morning market at Bolivar Park, walking through the local Botanical Garden, and drinking until one in the morning.</p> <figure id="attachment_297" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-297" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-297 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7567.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7567.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7567.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7567.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7567.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7567.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-297" class="wp-caption-text">Saturday Market in Bolivar Park</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_298" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-298" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-298 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7575.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7575.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7575.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7575.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7575.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7575.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-298" class="wp-caption-text">Beer Garden in Poblado</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_299" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-299" style="width: 175px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-299 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7581-1.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1" alt="" width="175" height="175" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7581-1.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7581-1.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7581-1.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7581-1.jpg?zoom=2&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 350w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7581-1.jpg?zoom=3&resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 525w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-299" class="wp-caption-text">I finally got to try out some of the nightlife in Poblado</figcaption></figure> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>Throughout the day I try to talk in broken Spanish to get in some practice. Juan mostly understands what I’m saying, but whenever he speaks back to me I unfortunately understand nothing. As a result he’s patient enough to talk to me in English for most of of the day. In a relatively short amount of time Juan and I get to be pretty good friends. I learn about his family and his job, and he learns about my life and why I decided to leave some of it behind to travel. Juan is one of those people that asks genuine, but somewhat personal questions that your best friend might not even ask you. And then he listens to your answer. Ultimately it all gives the impression that he’s legitimately interested in having a real conversation and getting to know someone. Yep, he’s a good kid. Lol.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Guatapé and La Piedra</strong></span></h5> <p>One thing on just about every must visit list for Medellin is a trip to the tiny lakefront town of Guatapé and El Peñon de Guatape, otherwise known as La Piedra, otherwise known as ‘the Rock’. In truth, I was less than motivated to go. Not because I wasn’t interested, but touristing is damn exhausting. You’re looking at maps and trudging all over the city all day. I was KILLING it in my fitbit step count, but by the end of the week I was tired. I originally planned to go to Guatapé on Friday, but pushed it to Monday out of exhaustion. When I woke up on Monday morning to be greeted by rain and dark skies, I almost backed out. It’s a 2 hour bus ride to the town, and 2 hours back. Part of me wanted to watch Netflix and hang out at a coffee shop all day. But no. I dragged myself out of the apartment <em>relatively</em> early and made it to the bus station. I bought myself a ticket to Guatapé and I took a good nap on the bus. And it was well worth it.</p> <p>When the bus drops you off at the Rock, you’re already a few hours outside of Medellin in a very different landscape. While you’re still surrounded by green mountains there are also several lakes, and tourist resorts. The trek up the rock begins by a 20-30 minute hike to the base, followed by just over 700 steps to the top. I know the step count, because they wrote it on the stairs. If you want to know what all that looks like, here it is.</p> <figure id="attachment_289" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-289" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-289 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7738.jpg?resize=325%2C325&ssl=1" alt="Guatape" width="325" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7738.jpg?resize=325%2C325&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7738.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7738.jpg?resize=768%2C767&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7738.jpg?resize=1024%2C1024&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7738.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7738.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7738.jpg?w=1080&ssl=1 1080w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-289" class="wp-caption-text">La Piedra</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_296" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-296" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-296 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7640.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="guatape" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7640.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7640.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7640.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7640.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7640.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-296" class="wp-caption-text">700 steps and counting</figcaption></figure> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>The views at the top do not disappoint. While the day started grey and drizzly, the clouds parted just as I reached the top and it turned into a lovely sunny day. Proud of myself for making it, I enjoyed what many other tourists have at the top: Michelada. Beer with fruit in it, in this case mango.</p> <figure id="attachment_293" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-293" style="width: 244px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-293 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7669.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="244" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7669.jpg?resize=244%2C325&ssl=1 244w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7669.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7669.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7669.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7669.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-293" class="wp-caption-text">View from the Top</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_288" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-288" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-288 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7632.jpg?resize=325%2C253&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="253" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7632.jpg?resize=325%2C253&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7632.jpg?resize=768%2C598&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7632.jpg?resize=1024%2C797&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7632.jpg?resize=1140%2C887&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7632.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7632.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-288" class="wp-caption-text">View from the Middle</figcaption></figure> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>Upon descent of the Piedra, it’s a short wait for another local bus to carry you on the final 10 minute drive to Guatapé. A small, but colorfully painted lakeside resort and tourist town. I met another German as I was getting off the bus, Inga. We bought our return ticket to Medellin together and the agent gave us the receipt on the same ticket. As a result, Inga was my newest friend for the next three hours in this small town.</p> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-286 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7748.jpg?resize=325%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7748.jpg?resize=325%2C325&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7748.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7748.jpg?resize=768%2C768&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7748.jpg?resize=1024%2C1024&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7748.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7748.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7748.jpg?w=1080&ssl=1 1080w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /> <img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-283 alignleft" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7745.jpg?resize=325%2C325&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="325" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7745.jpg?resize=325%2C325&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7745.jpg?resize=175%2C175&ssl=1 175w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7745.jpg?resize=768%2C767&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7745.jpg?resize=1024%2C1024&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7745.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7745.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7745.jpg?w=1080&ssl=1 1080w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>Guatapé is known for its’ colorful paintings on its buildings. It’s also on one of the many lakes, meaning you can rent a boat or a kayak. Inga and I opted instead to have lunch at a restaurant balcony overlooking the lake, and enjoy some local trout. It was one of my favorite meals so far in Colombia.</p> <figure id="attachment_282" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-282" style="width: 325px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-282 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7726.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1" alt="" width="325" height="244" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7726.jpg?resize=325%2C244&ssl=1 325w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7726.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7726.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7726.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7726.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7726.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-282" class="wp-caption-text">La Plancha Bandeja with local trout from the Lake nearby</figcaption></figure> <p>After lunch Inga and I got a coffee and hit up some tourist stores. You can walk around all of Guatape in about 25 minutes. So while beautiful, it’s not a place where you need to spend more than a few hours. We caught the bus back to Medellin, and continue talking all the way until the metro. I didn’t get back to the apartment until after 8, but I can’t think of a better activity for my last day in Medellin. I’m glad I got my a$$ out of the apartment that morning.</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/for-the-love-of-medellin/">For the Love of Medellín</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/for-the-love-of-medellin/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>3916</slash:comments> <enclosure url="https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7416.m4v" length="16894771" type="video/mp4" /> <post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">251</post-id> </item> <item> <title>City Tours and Traveling Mishaps – From Panama to Medellin</title> <link>https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/city-tours-and-traveling-mishaps-from-panama-to-medellin/</link> <comments>https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/city-tours-and-traveling-mishaps-from-panama-to-medellin/#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 04 May 2018 21:43:41 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Central America]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Colombia]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Medellin]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Panama]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Panama City]]></category> <category><![CDATA[South America]]></category> <category><![CDATA[city tours]]></category> <category><![CDATA[colombia]]></category> <category><![CDATA[medellin]]></category> <category><![CDATA[panama]]></category> <category><![CDATA[panama city]]></category> <category><![CDATA[spanish]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://markingmymap.com/?p=189</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>“Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey.” – Fitzhugh Mullan For those of you aching for more blog posts, you’re in luck.  I’m covering a lot of ground in this one. Enough Spanish for One Month For my last Friday in Panama city I skipped my Spanish classes and played tourist for the day.  Don’t judge me.  I wasn’t just playing hookie because I didn’t want to go to class (which I didn’t).  I also didn’t plan my Panama City flight itinerary very well.  My arrival in Panama City was on a Sunday afternoon.  I then had class all week, and a flight out to Colombia on Saturday morning.  If I wanted to see the city sites I had to skip class.  Hear that??  I HAD TO SKIP CLASS. Believe me, it was for the best.  On Thursday I told my instructors I wasn’t coming back and I mentally checked out midway through my four hour morning session.  I couldn’t take it anymore.  My mind couldn’t string a simple sentence together.  I couldn’t pronounce anything.  My tongue was getting tied up in the simplest of words.  By the time of my afternoon one hour ‘private session’  I wasn’t so cheerful.  Wisely, my afternoon instructor and I agreed the day before to hold our lesson on my hostel’s front patio across the street.  I supplied wine.  He supplied snacks.  It was a fair trade.  The younger instructors like to go off campus and I don’t mind.  It’s really good to get out of the building. My afternoon instructor is Sergio.  He’s the kind of hipster that purposefully didn’t own a cell phone for several years and thinks credit cards are the end of society.  But he’s interesting, is adamant that I learn something, and is patient when I’m in a bad mood which has been a lot this week.  Even with the vino he’s still persistently trying to teach me the subjunctive.  On other days this has helped me learn. On this day, I can’t handle it.  I try a few things in futility, but I just can’t get the concept.  I really hate that feeling.  If I were him, I’d be frustrated with me but he doesn’t show it.  I tell him I’m having a cranky day.  He tells me that everyone goes through this and it’s common in learning another language.  I know that’s true, but it doesn’t make me feel any better. So yeah, I skipped my last day of classes to be a tourist.  I went on Viator and I booked a city tour for foreigners. It was overpriced. It was touristy. Also it was in English.  For a few hours I spoke comfortably without feeling frustrated by my language skills or stressed about where I was going.  It was positively lovely. Touring Panama City  The tour was all Americans.  Two couples from Chicago who coincidentally didn’t know each other prior to the tour, and another solo traveler from New York.  Everyone but me had jobs and/or children to get back to after a week or two of vacation.  On the tour I was so emboldened by my ability to express ideas in words that other people understand that I was a Chatty Cathy all afternoon.  I find out about everyone’s careers, children’s names, dog’s names, countries they’ve visited, favorite sites in Panama.  Talking is SO MUCH FUN. We explored the old city (Casco Viejo) by foot for the first part of the tour.  At long last….after nearly four weeks in Latin America….I step foot in a church.  We learn about the colonial history of Panama, the French and American efforts to build the canal, and it’s Independence from Colombia.  I see a whole bunch of old buildings.               The second part of the tour is the Panama Canal itself.  The tour guide calls ahead to make sure we’ll be there in time to see a ship pass through the locks.  The ‘old’ canal has three sets of locks, as beautifully demonstrated here in the Canal museum.  We visited the Mira Flores locks which are the closest to the Caribbean Sea.  These are part of the ‘old’ part of the Panama Canal which opened in 1914. The canal was expanded in 2016 to include a new lane of traffic and lock system able to accommodate even larger ships. I know this because I read about it in the Panama Canal museum in the tourist center.  I even read it in Spanish.  The museum translated all of its information into both Spanish and English.  Cross my heart, I read it all in Spanish first and then read the English to make sure I understood the translation.  I didn’t always understand everything, but I understood more than I expected.  I even learned some new words.  And I enjoyed doing it.  At this point I was beyond giddy with my decision to be anywhere but in a Spanish classroom. If you’ve ever wondered what it looks like to see a giant cargo ship go through the Panama Canal, here it is. At the end of the tour I wander around Casco Viejo for a few more hours in the rain before making my way back to my hostel to pack up.  And that’s the end of my time in Panama.  It’s the end to four weeks of Spanish lessons.  I hiked a volcano and climbed some rocks.  I sat through a very long baseball game.  I drank a lot of wine and a moderate amount of beer.  And I got to see a giant ship squeeze through a man made engineering marvel.   It was fun while it lasted but I was ready for something new.  Peace out Panama. Lost Luggage and Lovely Vistas in Colombia I arrived in Medellin, Colombia, on Saturday.  I arrived on Saturday but my luggage did not arrive with me.  It got ‘misplaced’ along the way.  Surprisingly, this is the first time this has ever happened to me.  I have flown all over the US and the world. I’ve had flights where I barely made my connecting flight, but by some act of God my luggage made it without issue. And today my luck ran out.  On a one hour flight from Panama City to Medellin, my luggage did not make it. I don’t have a lot of experience with this type of thing, but I’m confident it’s a universal feeling that airline employees don’t express enough concern about the situation.  They’re probably told to stay calm to give an impression that there’s no reason to panic.  But their lack of a sense of urgency makes me believe they don’t take it as seriously as I feel they should. “Do you know where it is?” I asked the airline employees. I was peeved, but calm.  This happens all the time.  And these people didn’t lose my luggage, they’re trying to help me find it. “It’s probably still Panama.”  Is the reply I got. “Probably? What does that mean? You don’t know where it is?” “It’s probably just on a different flight.” I asked them about the barcode. I thought airlines scanned the barcode on the luggage tag so they always know where your luggage is located.  Isn’t that the WHOLE POINT OF THE BARCODE(?). Apparently the barcode is a useless, imaginary tool of whimsey and false hopes and dreams. “Write down your information and we’ll call you. We’ll send it to the apartment where you’re staying. You’ll probably get it later today.” This was one too many utterances of ‘probably’ for me.  “What if I don’t get it today? When do you think you’ll know where it is? What if you can’t find it?” “I’m sure we’ll find it.” “What if you can’t?” “We will.” I don’t think they understood my question. WHAT IF YOU CAN’T??? This is the one question airline employees will never answer.  They’re not sure what happened to your luggage, or when it will arrive. They’re not sure of where it is right now.  But they’re absolutely sure you’ll get it back. I had no power or control in this situation.  So I leave my information, take a picture of my luggage tag, and a copy of a form with my name on it for lost luggage.  I’m annoyed but surprisingly calm (but I refuse to admit that I’m calm because they were calm).  I have my passport, wallet, computer, and phone with me.  All is not lost. I find a driver to bring me into the city. Any frustration I’m feeling doesn’t last long because, well, Medellin is mother f*ing beautiful (hopefully my family appreciates that I finally bleeped a swear word in here).  Like gorgeous. As we drive into the city, we’re surrounded by plush green mountains.  There are tall buildings and houses are built on  steep cliffsides overlooking the city below.  We drive down a winding road through greenery, and flowers, and people walking horses on the side of the road.  I feel like I’m in an animated children’s movie, driving into a fairytale wonderland.  It’s my first day here and I’m already wondering why I’m leaving so soon in 10 days. Can’t I become some kind of princess and live here forever? I check into my Airbnb and aside from the tiny detail about having no clothes, toiletries, or other belongings, all is good. I’m renting a room in an apartment in the safe but touristy area of El Poblado.  The room is clean and nice.  The apartment is on the 11th floor with a view. After a few hours of radio silence from the airline after multiple messages, I get more unsure of what to do.  At what point should I buy a change of clothes and toiletries?  I call my brother who’s always good about listening to me complain about something.  He tells me to buy a toothbrush, soap, and clean underwear, but wait on everything else. This seems like sound advice. I use this as a an opportunity to explore my surroundings and head out to the streets of Medellin. First Night in Colombia The Airbnb host gives me some directions and I head out towards the closest grocery store to pick up a few personal hygiene essentials.  But it’s early in the night, and I have nothing else to do so I keep walking.  The area is surprisingly cleaner than most US cities. And well…nice.  Nicer than my neighborhood in DC, that’s for sure.  There are dozens of swanky bars and restaurants nearby.  I know I’m in the touristy part of town, but I still didn’t expect this. Eventually I came across one of the most confusing but nicest malls I’ve ever visited. At first I thought it’s a fancy strip mall; but I turned down a hallway and found myself in a weird high-end shopping maze.  It was partially enclosed, and partially outdoors.  I followed the sound of music playing and found a full stage and band playing next to a store selling housewares.  To add to the confusion, there’s a car park right in the middle of the mall.  Periodically I looked up to see a car driving through what I thought was a straightforward walkway in front of a coffee shop.  And I guess it’s ok to bring your unleashed dog to the mall in Colombia (?). The unleashed dogs and cars driving down the hallway all feel very out of place because everything (and everyone) looks incredibly exclusive and expensive.  Except for me.  I look like unshowered plane trash. I eventually pick up my essentials as well a reasonably priced shirt just in case my luggage doesn’t arrive anytime soon.  When I get back to my Airbnb it’s after 9pm and there’s a message from the airline saying my luggage is on a flight arriving in Medellin at 11pm. I should have it by morning.  This was yet another bold faced lie but I was just happy to know that someone knew where it was...</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/city-tours-and-traveling-mishaps-from-panama-to-medellin/">City Tours and Traveling Mishaps – From Panama to Medellin</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4><span style="color: #000080;">“Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey.” – <cite>Fitzhugh Mullan</cite></span></h4> <p><span style="color: #000000;"><em>For those of you aching for more blog posts, you’re in luck. I’m covering a lot of ground in this one.</em></span></p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Enough Spanish for One Month</strong></span></h5> <p>For my last Friday in Panama city I skipped my Spanish classes and played tourist for the day. Don’t judge me. I wasn’t just playing hookie because I didn’t want to go to class (which I didn’t). I also didn’t plan my Panama City flight itinerary very well. My arrival in Panama City was on a Sunday afternoon. I then had class all week, and a flight out to Colombia on Saturday morning. If I wanted to see the city sites I had to skip class. Hear that?? I HAD TO SKIP CLASS.</p> <p>Believe me, it was for the best. On Thursday I told my instructors I wasn’t coming back and I mentally checked out midway through my four hour morning session. I couldn’t take it anymore. My mind couldn’t string a simple sentence together. I couldn’t pronounce anything. My tongue was getting tied up in the simplest of words. By the time of my afternoon one hour ‘private session’ I wasn’t so cheerful. Wisely, my afternoon instructor and I agreed the day before to hold our lesson on my hostel’s front patio across the street. I supplied wine. He supplied snacks. It was a fair trade. The younger instructors like to go off campus and I don’t mind. It’s really good to get out of the building.</p> <p>My afternoon instructor is Sergio. He’s the kind of hipster that purposefully didn’t own a cell phone for several years and thinks credit cards are the end of society. But he’s interesting, is adamant that I learn something, and is patient when I’m in a bad mood which has been a lot this week. Even with the vino he’s still persistently trying to teach me the subjunctive. On other days this has helped me learn. On this day, I can’t handle it. I try a few things in futility, but I just can’t get the concept. I really hate that feeling. If I were him, I’d be frustrated with me but he doesn’t show it. I tell him I’m having a cranky day. He tells me that everyone goes through this and it’s common in learning another language. I know that’s true, but it doesn’t make me feel any better.</p> <p>So yeah, I skipped my last day of classes to be a tourist. I went on Viator and I booked a city tour for foreigners. It was overpriced. It was touristy. Also it was in English. For a few hours I spoke comfortably without feeling frustrated by my language skills or stressed about where I was going. It was positively lovely.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Touring Panama City </strong></span></h5> <p>The tour was all Americans. Two couples from Chicago who coincidentally didn’t know each other prior to the tour, and another solo traveler from New York. Everyone but me had jobs and/or children to get back to after a week or two of vacation. On the tour I was so emboldened by my ability to express ideas in words that other people understand that I was a Chatty Cathy all afternoon. I find out about everyone’s careers, children’s names, dog’s names, countries they’ve visited, favorite sites in Panama. Talking is SO MUCH FUN.</p> <p>We explored the old city (Casco Viejo) by foot for the first part of the tour. At long last….after nearly four weeks in Latin America….I step foot in a church. We learn about the colonial history of Panama, the French and American efforts to build the canal, and it’s Independence from Colombia. I see a whole bunch of old buildings.</p> <figure id="attachment_201" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-201" style="width: 150px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-201 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_6983.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1" alt="Church" width="150" height="150" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_6983.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 150w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_6983.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_6983.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_6983.jpg?zoom=3&resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 450w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-201" class="wp-caption-text">Churchin’ it</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_202" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-202" style="width: 150px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-202 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7011.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1" alt="Simon Bolivar" width="150" height="150" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7011.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 150w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7011.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7011.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7011.jpg?zoom=3&resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 450w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-202" class="wp-caption-text">Simon Bolivar Statue</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_199" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-199" style="width: 150px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-199 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_6982.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1" alt="" width="150" height="150" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_6982.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 150w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_6982.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_6982.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_6982.jpg?zoom=3&resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 450w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-199" class="wp-caption-text">One of the Oldest Churches in Panama – don’t ask me the name</figcaption></figure> <figure id="attachment_204" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-204" style="width: 150px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-204 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7108.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1" alt="" width="150" height="150" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7108.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 150w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7108.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7108.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7108.jpg?zoom=3&resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 450w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-204" class="wp-caption-text">Casco Viejo – The Streets of the Old City</figcaption></figure> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>The second part of the tour is the Panama Canal itself. The tour guide calls ahead to make sure we’ll be there in time to see a ship pass through the locks. The ‘old’ canal has three sets of locks, as beautifully demonstrated here in the Canal museum. We visited the Mira Flores locks which are the closest to the Caribbean Sea. These are part of the ‘old’ part of the Panama Canal which opened in 1914.</p> <figure id="attachment_205" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-205" style="width: 150px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-205 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7075.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1" alt="" width="150" height="150" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7075.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 150w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7075.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7075.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7075.jpg?zoom=3&resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 450w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-205" class="wp-caption-text">The three sets of locks in the Panama Canal</figcaption></figure> <p>The canal was expanded in 2016 to include a new lane of traffic and lock system able to accommodate even larger ships. I know this because I read about it in the Panama Canal museum in the tourist center. I even read it <em>in Spanish</em>. The museum translated all of its information into both Spanish and English. Cross my heart, I read it all in Spanish first and then read the English to make sure I understood the translation. I didn’t always understand everything, but I understood more than I expected. I even learned some new words. And I enjoyed doing it. At this point I was beyond giddy with my decision to be anywhere but in a Spanish classroom.</p> <figure id="attachment_209" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-209" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-209 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7053-1.jpg?resize=300%2C225&ssl=1" alt="Panama Canal" width="300" height="225" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7053-1.jpg?resize=300%2C225&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7053-1.jpg?resize=768%2C577&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7053-1.jpg?resize=1024%2C769&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7053-1.jpg?resize=1140%2C856&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7053-1.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7053-1.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-209" class="wp-caption-text">Canal Selfie</figcaption></figure> <p>If you’ve ever wondered what it looks like to see a giant cargo ship go through the Panama Canal, here it is.</p> <div style="width: 960px;" class="wp-video"><video class="wp-video-shortcode" id="video-189-4" width="960" height="540" preload="metadata" controls="controls"><source type="video/mp4" src="https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7032.m4v?_=4" /><a href="https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7032.m4v">https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7032.m4v</a></video></div> <figure id="attachment_207" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-207" style="width: 960px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-207 size-large" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7048.jpg?resize=960%2C720&ssl=1" alt="" width="960" height="720" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7048.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7048.jpg?resize=300%2C225&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7048.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7048.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7048.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7048.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-207" class="wp-caption-text">That’s a tight squeeze alright. Ships can pass though the Canal with only two feet of clearance on either side. Pretty. Damn. Amazing.</figcaption></figure> <p>At the end of the tour I wander around Casco Viejo for a few more hours in the rain before making my way back to my hostel to pack up. And that’s the end of my time in Panama. It’s the end to four weeks of Spanish lessons. I hiked a volcano and climbed some rocks. I sat through a very long baseball game. I drank a lot of wine and a moderate amount of beer. And I got to see a giant ship squeeze through a man made engineering marvel. It was fun while it lasted but I was ready for something new. Peace out Panama.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Lost Luggage and Lovely Vistas in Colombia</strong></span></h5> <p>I arrived in Medellin, Colombia, on Saturday. I arrived on Saturday but my luggage did not arrive with me. It got ‘misplaced’ along the way. Surprisingly, this is the first time this has ever happened to me. I have flown all over the US and the world. I’ve had flights where I barely made my connecting flight, but by some act of God my luggage made it without issue. And today my luck ran out. On a one hour flight from Panama City to Medellin, my luggage did not make it.</p> <p>I don’t have a lot of experience with this type of thing, but I’m confident it’s a universal feeling that airline employees don’t express enough concern about the situation. They’re probably told to stay calm to give an impression that there’s no reason to panic. But their lack of a sense of urgency makes me believe they don’t take it as seriously as I feel they should.</p> <p>“Do you know where it is?” I asked the airline employees. I was peeved, but calm. This happens all the time. And these people didn’t lose my luggage, they’re trying to help me find it.</p> <p>“It’s probably still Panama.” Is the reply I got.</p> <p>“Probably? What does that mean? You don’t know where it is?”</p> <p>“It’s probably just on a different flight.”</p> <p>I asked them about the barcode. I thought airlines scanned the barcode on the luggage tag so they always know where your luggage is located. Isn’t that the WHOLE POINT OF THE BARCODE(?). Apparently the barcode is a useless, imaginary tool of whimsey and false hopes and dreams.</p> <p>“Write down your information and we’ll call you. We’ll send it to the apartment where you’re staying. You’ll probably get it later today.”</p> <p>This was one too many utterances of ‘probably’ for me. “What if I don’t get it today? When do you think you’ll know where it is? What if you can’t find it?”</p> <p>“I’m sure we’ll find it.”</p> <p>“What if you can’t?”</p> <p>“We will.”</p> <p>I don’t think they understood my question. WHAT IF YOU CAN’T???</p> <p>This is the one question airline employees will never answer. They’re not sure what happened to your luggage, or when it will arrive. They’re not sure of where it is right now. But they’re absolutely sure you’ll get it back.</p> <p>I had no power or control in this situation. So I leave my information, take a picture of my luggage tag, and a copy of a form with my name on it for lost luggage. I’m annoyed but surprisingly calm (but I <span style="text-decoration: underline;">refuse</span> to admit that I’m calm because they were calm). I have my passport, wallet, computer, and phone with me. All is not lost.</p> <p>I find a driver to bring me into the city. Any frustration I’m feeling doesn’t last long because, well, Medellin is mother f*ing beautiful (hopefully my family appreciates that I finally bleeped a swear word in here). Like gorgeous. As we drive into the city, we’re surrounded by plush green mountains. There are tall buildings and houses are built on steep cliffsides overlooking the city below. We drive down a winding road through greenery, and flowers, and people walking horses on the side of the road. I feel like I’m in an animated children’s movie, driving into a fairytale wonderland. It’s my first day here and I’m already wondering why I’m leaving so soon in 10 days. Can’t I become some kind of princess and live here forever?</p> <figure id="attachment_222" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-222" style="width: 225px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-222 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7424-2.jpg?resize=225%2C300&ssl=1" alt="Medellin" width="225" height="300" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7424-2.jpg?resize=225%2C300&ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7424-2.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7424-2.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7424-2.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7424-2.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-222" class="wp-caption-text">Medellin. This picture doesn’t even do it justice</figcaption></figure> <p>I check into my Airbnb and aside from the tiny detail about having no clothes, toiletries, or other belongings, all is good. I’m renting a room in an apartment in the safe but touristy area of El Poblado. The room is clean and nice. The apartment is on the 11th floor with a view.</p> <figure id="attachment_211" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-211" style="width: 225px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-211 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7168.jpg?resize=225%2C300&ssl=1" alt="Medellin" width="225" height="300" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7168.jpg?resize=225%2C300&ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7168.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7168.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7168.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7168.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-211" class="wp-caption-text">Airbnb Views of Medellin</figcaption></figure> <p>After a few hours of radio silence from the airline after multiple messages, I get more unsure of what to do. At what point should I buy a change of clothes and toiletries? I call my brother who’s always good about listening to me complain about something. He tells me to buy a toothbrush, soap, and clean underwear, but wait on everything else. This seems like sound advice. I use this as a an opportunity to explore my surroundings and head out to the streets of Medellin.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">First Night in Colombia</span></strong></h5> <p>The Airbnb host gives me some directions and I head out towards the closest grocery store to pick up a few personal hygiene essentials. But it’s early in the night, and I have nothing else to do so I keep walking. The area is surprisingly cleaner than most US cities. And well…nice. Nicer than my neighborhood in DC, that’s for sure. There are dozens of swanky bars and restaurants nearby. I know I’m in the touristy part of town, but I still didn’t expect this.</p> <p>Eventually I came across one of the most confusing but nicest malls I’ve ever visited. At first I thought it’s a fancy strip mall; but I turned down a hallway and found myself in a weird high-end shopping maze. It was partially enclosed, and partially outdoors. I followed the sound of music playing and found a full stage and band playing next to a store selling housewares. To add to the confusion, there’s a car park right in the middle of the mall. Periodically I looked up to see a car driving through what I thought was a straightforward walkway in front of a coffee shop. And I guess it’s ok to bring your unleashed dog to the mall in Colombia (?).</p> <p>The unleashed dogs and cars driving down the hallway all feel very out of place because everything (and everyone) looks incredibly exclusive and expensive. Except for me. I look like unshowered plane trash.</p> <figure id="attachment_223" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-223" style="width: 225px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-223 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7173.jpg?resize=225%2C300&ssl=1" alt="Medellin Shopping" width="225" height="300" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7173.jpg?resize=225%2C300&ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7173.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7173.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7173.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7173.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-223" class="wp-caption-text">Concerts in Shopping Malls</figcaption></figure> <p>I eventually pick up my essentials as well a reasonably priced shirt just in case my luggage doesn’t arrive anytime soon. When I get back to my Airbnb it’s after 9pm and there’s a message from the airline saying my luggage is on a flight arriving in Medellin at 11pm. I should have it by morning. This was yet another bold faced lie but I was just happy to know that someone knew where it was located.</p> <p>When my luggage eventually comes, it’s not in the morning, or by 1pm as the airline told me after a half a dozen follow-up WhatsApp messages. It showed up at 4pm the next day. I’m a little embarrassed to admit that I cried a little when it finally arrived. I didn’t expect that to happen. I was getting mentally prepared in the event it did <em>not</em> show up. But I was frustrated from waiting for it all day and feeling like a slob. Also I had started to mentally inventory the things in the bag. While things are always replaceable, I had realized what a pain and stress it would be to buy all new clothes and travel needs if it didn’t come.</p> <figure id="attachment_224" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-224" style="width: 225px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-224" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7191.jpg?resize=225%2C300&ssl=1" alt="Luggage" width="225" height="300" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7191.jpg?resize=225%2C300&ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7191.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7191.jpg?resize=1140%2C1520&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7191.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7191.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-224" class="wp-caption-text">Giant Backpack = Tears of Joy</figcaption></figure> <p>So yeah, I got a little teary. Traveling can be stressful, and it’s emotional to think you may have lost all your stuff. Even if it’s not super nice stuff.</p> <h5 style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">City Touring It Part 2: Medellin</span></strong></h5> <p>With my belongings in my possession and clean clothes on my back, I was finally ready to be a tourist. And what better way to start than with one of those free city walking tours. This is one of my favorite things to do on the first day of any new city, and Medellin has a really well ranked one called Real City Tours. Even after tipping these tours are cheap, help you get your bearings, and can be a great way to meet other travelers. And at this point I was starting to miss hanging out with other people. Therefore I distinctly went into this tour with the goal of making a new friend. Someone WILL hang out with me after the tour. I’m going to get someone’s What’sApp information and eat a meal with another human being. These are my goals.</p> <p>As I arrived at the metro station to meet the tour, I had to remember to calm down my friend making tendencies. Anyone who’s single and has been to a bar with me knows I can be a real assertive wing woman. Here on this city tour I was acting as my own friend-making wing woman. I didn’t want to come across as too weirdly desperate or aggressive. People don’t like that.</p> <p>The tour was mostly couples talking amongst themselves and a few older travelers. I chat for a minute with an older duo in line with me, but they end up being split up into a different tour group. Eventually I spot another single woman traveler, looking about my age. I walk over and strike up a conversation. I meet Antonia who is from Germany, and is traveling around South America for several months by herself.</p> <p>Jackpot. Antonia doesn’t know it yet, but she’s my new friend.</p> <p>The city tour itself was fantastic. The tour company’s selling point is that it tells the whole history of Medellin, not just the tourist friendly happy side. The guides will also talk about the dark past and violence in the city.</p> <p>The really famous thing Medellin is unfortunately known for is Pablo Escobar. The drug kingpin is sometimes portrayed as a robin hood because he gave houses and money to the poor. The context from a native Colombian who lived through those times, however, is quite different. While some people choose to recognize Escobar’s acts of ‘generosity’, others see these acts as simply buying public support so people will turn a blind eye to his many other crimes. Escobar helped make Medellin one of the most violent and dangerous cities in the world for a period of time in the 80’s and 90’s. While giving away houses, he was simultaneously torturing and killing people. Tour guides won’t state his name in public and recommend that tourists don’t either. For obvious reasons, Colombians can have a strong reaction to his name.</p> <p>Beyond the painful history, Medellin has undergone an amazing transformation. I know I keep saying it, but it’s so beautiful here. Not to mention the city has great museums, a super clean and reliable metro system, lovely park space, and impressive public works of art. Most people are also incredibly friendly. I’ve had plenty of moments where I can’t figure out the train’s card system or which way to turn on a street. It takes all of 10 seconds for a Colombian to notice my confusion, stop what they’re doing, and politely and patiently try to help. The other day an old man tried to carry my bag while I stood on the train. In other cities I would think he’s trying to steal from me. But in Medellin, this was legit old fashioned curtesy.</p> <p>It’s taken me a minute to get used to this helpfulness. I’ve since had many native Colombians explain that the friendliness is just as much due to their violent past as despite it. It’s a city and a people that have faced tough times, but they’ve persevered. The people pride themselves on positivity and their ability to keep looking forward instead of backward. And that also means looking out for one another and helping out when you can.</p> <figure id="attachment_226" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-226" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-226 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7252.jpg?resize=300%2C225&ssl=1" alt="Medellin" width="300" height="225" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7252.jpg?resize=300%2C225&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7252.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7252.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7252.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7252.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7252.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-226" class="wp-caption-text">Birds of Peace in Plaza San Antonio. The left bird was blown up in a concert in 1995 that killed several people. The right one is meant to be a symbol of Peace and Medellin’s future</figcaption></figure> <p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="alignleft wp-image-227 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7206.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1" alt="" width="150" height="150" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7206.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 150w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7206.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7206.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7206.jpg?zoom=3&resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 450w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px" /><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="alignleft wp-image-231 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7260.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1" alt="" width="150" height="150" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7260.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 150w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7260.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7260.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7260.jpg?zoom=3&resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 450w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px" /><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="alignleft wp-image-233 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7218.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1" alt="" width="150" height="150" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7218.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 150w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7218.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7218.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7218.jpg?zoom=3&resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 450w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px" /> <img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="alignleft wp-image-230 size-thumbnail" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7236.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1" alt="" width="150" height="150" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7236.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 150w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7236.jpg?resize=300%2C300&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7236.jpg?resize=75%2C75&ssl=1 75w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7236.jpg?zoom=3&resize=150%2C150&ssl=1 450w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px" /></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>By the end of the tour I made Antonia give me her What’sApp info and we talked about meeting up for some other city touring later in the week. She has other plans after the tour, so I move on to Plan B to accomplish my meal eating goal. Plan B involves a new level of friend making which borders on stalking but I call being outgoing. I linger around at the end of the tour, waiting to see what people leave together and where they go. Then I pick a group, follow them, and if they duck into a bar or restaurant I catch up and ask to join them. I’m telling you, as long as you don’t come across as too creepy, this shit works.</p> <p>I pick a group of four people leaving together who are heading towards a bar the tour guide just recommended. Bingo. The group included one couple, and two single travelers. All of them are French, meaning they probably left together so they could enjoy a conversation in their native language. Or that was before I invited myself to the party.</p> <p>We chat for awhile over a beer and then everyone decides to part ways to make other tourist stops. A solo traveler named Lorenzo asks if anyone wants to get some lunch. Luckily for Lorenzo, he just walked right into my friend trap. I WOULD LOVE TO EAT SOMETHING RIGHT NOW. Lorenzo and I find a restaurant with a balcony near a church nearby and settle in for a traditional Colombian meal called Bandeja Paisa, which consists of beans, rice, a plantain, a fried egg, and a giant plate of meat. Check box on goal #2. I’m eating with another human.</p> <figure id="attachment_232" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-232" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-232 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7255.jpg?resize=300%2C225&ssl=1" alt="Medellin" width="300" height="225" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7255.jpg?resize=300%2C225&ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7255.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7255.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7255.jpg?resize=1140%2C855&ssl=1 1140w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7255.jpg?w=1920&ssl=1 1920w, https://i0.wp.com/markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7255.jpg?w=2880&ssl=1 2880w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-232" class="wp-caption-text">Bandeja Paisa – my mini version. The real version has a Chorizo, a blood sausage, and whole bunch of other meat</figcaption></figure> <p>Lorenzo is originally from France, but has lived in the UK, and now in Peru. Interestingly enough, he used to work in banking, but similar to myself he quit after about 10 years in the industry to travel and experience something else in life. That was 3 years ago. Since then he’s been mostly based in Peru. He doesn’t have a visa, but leaves the country every 90 days to get his passport re-stamped. He does some consulting work for an NGO which pays the bills. People are so interesting.</p> <p>We finish our lunch, pay the bill, and part ways for different tourist activities. I head to a café for a coffee (and maybe…..an ice cream too) and a rest. I’m worn out after 6 hours of a walking tour and successful friend making. But I also feel pretty proud of myself. I found a new friend to meet up with later in the week, ate a meal with another person, and learned a lot about the history of Colombia and Medellin in the meantime. As toursting goes, that’s a successful day.</p> <p>The post <a href="https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/city-tours-and-traveling-mishaps-from-panama-to-medellin/">City Tours and Traveling Mishaps – From Panama to Medellin</a> appeared first on <a href="https://markingmymap.com">Marking My Map</a>.</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://markingmymap.com/2018/05/city-tours-and-traveling-mishaps-from-panama-to-medellin/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>3569</slash:comments> <enclosure url="https://markingmymap.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_7032.m4v" length="16705462" type="video/mp4" /> <post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">189</post-id> </item> </channel> </rss>